BOMBdig
CEG'er
Tire pressure? Check that; it gets low when the weather breaks.
would tire pressure really make a substantial difference?
Tire pressure? Check that; it gets low when the weather breaks.
The cat works just fine, or else she'd have a code. And I don't think the EGR is a problem for the pre98 Zetecs...someone correct me if I'm wrong.
even so, it just doesn't make sense, the last thing I can think of is that the rear e-brake cables are dragging, of course, with that low of gas mileage, it would be a noticeable thing, but I could be wrong.
its extremely rare for the cat and/or EGR to fail on a zetec, in fact I dont think I have ever seen a Zetec car throw a code for the Exhaust system before that wasnt because of a driver upgrade.
even so, it just doesn't make sense, the last thing I can think of is that the rear e-brake cables are dragging, of course, with that low of gas mileage, it would be a noticeable thing, but I could be wrong.
how do i check if the they are dragging?
Ian i can answer questions for myself. Also the reason it hasn't been corrected is not because you haven't had time, but because we don't even know where the problem is.
ok so i checked the rear brakes on the car today and it seems like there is a problem there. I'm not sure if it has to do with the e brake dragging but when the wheel turns there is a consistent scraping-like sound that causes the wheel a little resistance. I spun the wheel and after barely touching the brake the wheel stopped. is there any significance in that? it could be that the adjuster is too tight i'm not sure. let me know what you think seeing as i know nothing :help:
It's natural to have a little drag on the rotor from the pad, and because the weight of the wheel isn't overly significant, it may stop sooner than you expect when you're spinning it without the weight of the car. However, if it seems that it's binding up, y'all might want to look at regreasing that slider pin.
Well now that you mention it, when ctmystique and I swapped out the rear shoes, the drums were quite a tight fit...I'm wondering if maybe we didn't adjust the shoes right and it could still be dragging. Definitely gotta jack it up and spin that wheel! :shocked:
It's natural to have a little drag on the rotor from the pad, and because the weight of the wheel isn't overly significant, it may stop sooner than you expect when you're spinning it without the weight of the car. However, if it seems that it's binding up, y'all might want to look at regreasing that slider pin.
Someone needs to read :laugh: she has rear drums, not discs
still, a little drag is considered normal. it keeps you from having to press the brake pedal really far before they start to actually brake the car.
edit: dang, BrApple beat me to it.
Interval meaning one spot per rotation or every few minutes driving down the road?
most places will consider that normal but it does indicate that you may have a slightly warped drum. its not going to cause a drop gas mileage though.one spot per rotation.
the CEL isn't on.
i forgot to mention that i also changed all the spark plugs and wires back in November so those are not a problem.
As I've found out on my CSVT, faulty wires or plugs do not throw a CEL. If possible, hook it up to a computer to see what's going on.
If it's not possible, I'd take a close look at the plugs to make sure they're gapped correctly and that they're not arcing to ground. Take a look inside the spark plug boot (the plug end of the wire) and look for carbon streaks, which might also be evident on the spark plugs themselves.
If you see carbon streaks, clean the plugs using alcohol and be sure that the threads are clean too. If you used anti-seize compound, use it very sparingly. I've found that it can "squeeze out" and cause shorts. I simply put a small dab on the threads and wipe it around, making sure it's ONLY on the threads. Clean up any excess with alcohol and let dry before installing.
Good luck
Plugs and wires are new, gapped correctly.