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I can't believe it!

9

97vulcan

CEG'er
Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
456
Location
Wisconsin
Well....can I say it????I am pissed!!!! I went to change the three spark plugs closest to the radiator, to find out that the middle s.p hole is stripped in the cylinder. I pulled the boot off, and saw a lot of brown dust and grime on the boot and down in the s.p hole, so I pull the plug out, comes out fairly easily, but with a bunch of brown fine powder on it, I just think, ok maybe it wasn't tightened down enough. I go to put the new plug in its place, to find it just spinning and spinning...I pull it out, to find some nice aluminum threads on it......Now my car is parked...

What are my options?? I do not want to pull the head, and I want to go the best route possible, so the threads are as strong as possible.

Thanks,
Adam
 
Ok....thank you for the input! Does the heli-coil work well with our aluminum heads? beings that they expand and contract differently than cast iron, or steel?

~Adam
 
i had a heli coil on my first car, a zetec mystique. don't know how...but it blew the plug right out of the head.

heli coil is really your only option at this point...though it did cause the plug to sit a bit higher. could have just been done wrong by the mechanic though.
 
has anyone ever used a sleeve that is inserted into the hole? Is there anyway to re-tap the threads and install the plug? or do I need to put something in its place?

Thanks,
Adam
 
I doubt you will be able to re tap the threads since if you figure the threads that were there are gone, you are left with a slightly larger opening that before the original threads were tapped. So tapping your current opening would leave you with something that would be too large for the plug, as it is now. There would have to be new material added to tap new threads.
 
when I pulled out the plug, I only saw one thread on the plug, and some aluminum specks. Would it be worth it to try and re-tap the hole first with a 14mm tap, before inserting a heli-coil?

Also is 14mm the correct size for our spark plug holes?

WHat kind of heli-coil am I going to have to get?


THanks,
Adam
 
is the cyl. head on the car ?? are you taking it off ??
if you try and re-tap the head be careful about the shavings going back into the motor. i think hei-coil is your best bet for a fix
 
That sux man. You should just sell it..... j/k - heili coil it, try not to re-tap because of the metal shavings getting in the motor.
A plug popped out of my motor on the rear head and they couldn't heili coil it because there was no room. They put in a new head for me for about 2K! :throwup::green:
 
Thanks for all your comments guys! It looks as if I will try and heli-coil....The only reason I said I would like to try and re-tap is because I have to tap the hole anyway when I put the coil in.

Adam
 
If you have the tap for the size of the spark plug you can try to chase the threads, if they are just chewed up that could work. however if they are completely blown out (as I suspect) you will need to helicoil.
 
Does anyone know what size tap I need? Whats the thread pitch??? Or what kind of heli-coil do I need for this procedure???

Thanks,
Adam
 
You'll need a spark plug kit, usually available on the floor at AutoZone. They also now make an interesting repair kit that is more like a solid insert with an expansion tool you hammer on after its installed.
 
Got the new threads tapped today for the solid insert with the knarles on top. you use a swedge and pound it a bit to expand the knarles into the block. You need to put RTV hi temp sylicone on the threads screwing the insert into the block. Well my question, is how do you get the damn insert to let go of the plug when your screwing it down into the block for the first time. Every time I used the plug to guide the insert in, when I go to remove the plug, the insert came out with it. Does this mean, I need to wrench harder on the insert until the knarles grab, or do I let the RTV harden up a bit before trying to remove the plug. with the plug in there, i cannot use the swedge to hammer on the insert to expand the knarles. and I can't get the solid insert into the block without the plug

HELP PLEASE :help:

Thanks,
Adam
 
Or should I use a heli-coil to repair the threads?? Like I said, I have it tapped out, but the threaded insert came with the tap...it all came as a kit.

Which application will be most strong?

Thanks,
Adam
 
Heli-Coil

Heli-Coil

So I am installing the solid insert heli-coil in my SVT. Got the threads all tapped, and am about to install the insert. I can't figure out how to thread it down into the spark plug hole and get the plug back out. If I screw it on the spark plug, then use that to screw the sleeve into the block, when it comes time to pull the plug out, the sleeve comes out with it. Its the insert with the knurled end, so you use a swedge and hit it, so the knurles dig into the aluminum.

Will it be fine with the RTV, my good plug, and me just screwing it into the block ,without hitting the knurles into the block?

Any suggestions?

do I use the small end of the tap to install the sleeve, then back the tap out, then use the swedge and hammer the knurled edge into the block?

I must coat the outside threads with a hi-temp RTV.

My kit looks like this one.....
 

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I helped a friend with this kit once and we finally just threaded greased the spark plug, threaded the coil onto it very tightly and then cranked on the wrench (after we were sure it was threading in by hand) until the knurl bit the head and the plug unscrewed without pulling it out.
 
it appears that what you have is actually more along the lines of either a Rosan insert or a Keensert insert, and not a helicoil.

if what you have a Rosans I do not know what to tell you, I have never worked with them. However, Keenserts should have a special spring loaded tool that you use to screw the insert into the hole, hit the back with a hammer to set the tabs, and then simply unscrew the tool.

if the picture is deceiving and those are in fact Helicoils, they too should have a special tool that reduces the diameter of the coil prior to installation, the coil is then installed, and the tool removed allowing the coil to expand and bite into the surrounding metal.

Those really do appear to be closer to a Rosan design than a Keensert, and once again they should come as part of an installation kit. Having never worked with them, I can only offer conjecture based upon basic familiarity with the insert design. I would suggest finding a something other than a spark plug to install it, possibly a bolt and a couple nuts. Thread a couple nuts almost all the way onto a bolt, but not completely. Then tighten the nuts against each other jam nut style, still leaving space between the nuts and the bolt head. Then thread the insert onto the bolt. Now thread the insert into the hole and tighten it as tightly as possible without re-stripping the hole. Using two wrenches, put one wrench on the bolt head and a second wrench on the outer most nut. Thread nut toward bolt head releasing jam nut action. Continue to hold bolt head with first wrench, use second wrench on other nut to screw it away from the insert. Bolt is now loosely threaded into insert; remove bolt. Hit insert with swedge to set knurl, hope it remains in hole.
 
I was able to get the sleeve into the hole using a spark plug. I just threaded it in by hand, then used a ratchet to finish the job. I tightened it enough for the knurles to start to grab the aluminum. Before I put it in the head, I coated the sleeve with RED Hi-Temp RTV, and its curing as we speak. I removed the plug, and now contemplating not using the swedge to hit the knurles in. I don't know how hard to hit it with a hammer. I don't want to damage anything. Will I risk anything by not compressing the knurles?

Why did it call for RTV? does this seal it up and keep the gasses down in the cylinder?

Adam
 
Probably a little as a lubricant and a little as a sealant, though it wont stand up to combustion temps but may hold up to cylinder temps for a while. Without using the swedge you risk having the threaded section unscrewing the next time a spark plug seizes up a little so hammer a little and be sure to use anti-seize on the plug when you re-install it.
 
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