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loss of power intermittent

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xplicit

New CEG'er
Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Messages
20
Location
Regina, SK CA
Hello all!

I am having difficulty with my new car, and I was hoping for some help.

When I am driving, I am suddenly losing power, my RPMs drip to 0, and my CEL Light flickers. It feels like I am just learning how to drive standard and am "bunny hopping" in first. It seems to only happen when the engine is at operating temp, and the problem goes away after about 10 seconds or when I downshift, and usually happens intermittently for about 5 minutes, then goes away for 5 or 10 minutes and then starts up again.

I have changed the fuel pump and sock, the relays, and am about to do the spark plugs and fuel filter as well. I'm not feeling all that hopeful though. Does anyone have any ideas? I can't get a Code read because the problem is happening too infrequently.

Thanks for your help all!
 
well i was going to say check your injector harness, as my zetec acted the sameway on the highway and i kept clutch starting it at 75mph, not fun and wasnt doing it on purpose at first but then i got pissed and just let it do its thing. but now seeing you have a duratec, im not certain.

if it happens like in a instant, like car dies right as soon as it happens, i would look towards fuel injectors (not saying bad injectors but something dealing with injectors), if car stumbles a bit then dies, then id look to spark.

thats about all i can give
 
Welcome :) . Test the battery and alternator.



Start by charging the battery well. Then test the battery and alternator.

Charge the battery well, then test battery and alternator.

Battery test. Engine off, headlights on for one minute. Voltage across battery terminals should be 12 to 12.5.

Alternator test. Engine running, voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.
 
Does your PATS light illuminate for about a half second for each "pulse" of a stumble that you get?

Symptoms I was receiving:
RPM needle plummets about 1000 or more RPM (diving for 0 QUICK)
CEL light flickers once
PATS light illuminates for a half second or so (once)
car lurches if you were accelerating at the moment, or studders if idling.
pressing the gas pedal doesn't seem to affect it at all
goes for, literally, hours or more without a hiccup, then has fits of 20-40 or more "pulses" of the above symptoms.

Sometimes the pulses are minutes apart, and sometimes in a fury of about 30 or so in a minutes time (each pulse triggers the above mentioned symptoms.)

Check your battery terminals for a loose cable. trust me!
 
If the check engine light came on the computer will record the code and hold it for awhile. I've had a number of different problems cause loss of power and misfires. One of them is junk Wells parts from AutoZone. Coil lasted 5 months and then caused misses. Next it was a ignition unit, another AZ Wells part (only on 95s) causing the engine to cut out and give me code 211 - profile errors. One bad injector was hard to find for awhile too.
 
Except in this case the CEL isn't flickering BECAUSE of a problem.. it is flickering because of a loss of power (ie.. the PCM is going to KOEO status, and the CEL REMAINS LIT in KOEO mode. ) So.. it is simply embarking on the "come on and stay on because the car isn't running, but the key is on" journey, then the car regains power and it goes off because the car is started and running.

repeat per surge. No codes.. nothing present.
 
Ray said:
Check your battery terminals for a loose cable. trust me!
Click to expand...

Good call Ray.

Also replace your plug wires while you're changing the plugs (use Autolite double plats). Be careful as there can be some sharp edges on the intake manifold that can nick or otherwise damage your new wires as you install.

The proven performer plug wire sets for the V-6:

Magnecore
Stock Motorcraft
Autolite Professional series
 
There are no CEL codes, I checked it with an OBDII scanner, and nothing.

It's acting exactly as Ray described, with the possible exception of the PATS light - I've not noticed yet, but will watch for it the next time I drive.

Symptoms I was receiving:
RPM needle plummets about 1000 or more RPM (diving for 0 QUICK)
CEL light flickers once
(pats comment removed)
car lurches if you were accelerating at the moment, or studders if idling.
pressing the gas pedal doesn't seem to affect it at all
goes for, literally, hours or more without a hiccup, then has fits of 20-40 or more "pulses" of the above symptoms.

Sometimes the pulses are minutes apart, and sometimes in a fury of about 30 or so in a minutes time (each pulse triggers the above mentioned symptoms.)
Click to expand...

In addition to this, when I hit approx 5800+ RPM the battery light comes on. It goes out as soon as the RPM drop below that.

We ran an auterra dyno scan while I was driving it, and nothing showed on the software even when the lurch/ stutter was happening.

I'll change out the plugs and wires, clean the intake, and change the fuel filter this weekend, and let you know what happens. Thanks for the battery cable idea - I'll do that as well. Can anyone think of anything else I can have done?

Thanks so much! I really appreciate it!

Does anyone else have any ideas?
 
Last edited:
There are no CEL codes, I checked it with an OBDII scanner, and nothing.

It's acting exactly as Ray described, with the possible exception of the PATS light - I've not noticed yet, but will watch for it the next time I drive.

Symptoms I was receiving:
RPM needle plummets about 1000 or more RPM (diving for 0 QUICK)
CEL light flickers once
(pats comment removed)
car lurches if you were accelerating at the moment, or studders if idling.
pressing the gas pedal doesn't seem to affect it at all
goes for, literally, hours or more without a hiccup, then has fits of 20-40 or more "pulses" of the above symptoms.

Sometimes the pulses are minutes apart, and sometimes in a fury of about 30 or so in a minutes time (each pulse triggers the above mentioned symptoms.)
Click to expand...

In addition to this, when I hit approx 5800+ RPM the battery light comes on. It goes out as soon as the RPM drop below that.

We ran an auterra dyno scan while I was driving it, and nothing showed on the software even when the lurch/ stutter was happening.

I'll change out the plugs and wires, clean the intake manifold, and change the fuel filter this weekend, and let you know what happens. Thanks for the battery cable idea - I'll do that as well. Can anyone think of anything else I can have done?

Thanks so much! I really appreciate it!
 
Last edited:
update I think I need a mechanic

update I think I need a mechanic

It stalled out three times on the way home from work, and the surging/ sputtering/ spasming isn't getting any better.... and my BF is too busy to have a chance to look at it.

Any advice? I hate dealing with shops...
 
Did you tighten the negative post of the battery, AND make sure the other end of the negative cable (attached to the chassis) is tight, as well?
 
xplicit said:
It stalled out three times on the way home from work, and the surging/ sputtering/ spasming isn't getting any better.... ......

Any advice?......
Click to expand...


Tony2005 said:
.... . Test the battery and alternator.



Start by charging the battery well. Then test the battery and alternator.

Charge the battery well, then test battery and alternator.

Battery test. Engine off, headlights on for one minute. Voltage across battery terminals should be 12 to 12.5.

Alternator test. Engine running, voltage across battery terminals should be 14 to 14.5.
Click to expand...

Hmmmmm. :shrug:
 
Battery and Alternator test perfect.

I'll have my BF check the other end of the negative cable tonight, perhaps he can find a problem there that I missed.

It's still stalling out, I ran a fuel injector clean hoping for an easy fix, I guess I'm just not that lucky.:confused:

Thanks much for your help.... I'll update after we check those battery cables again.
 
By now, your Check Engine Light should be on, scan it (free service at Autozone or Advance) and post the exact codes.
 
Hi Tony!

I have Auterra Dyno Scan software on my laptop - it has an OBD11 reader, and have been hooking it up intermittently. As soon as I get a code, I'll post it. I'm going to try another fuel pump, I had a reburbished one last time.

Thanks for your help, let me know if you think of anything else?
 
Fixed It!

Fixed It!

Hello all, Thanks a million for your help...

I thought someone else might have the same problem, so I thought I'd post the answer.

I took the car into my local dealership, and they found a shorted wire going to the computer chip. They replaced it and the problem is fixed! It cost me just over $200 CAD, which isn't bad, especially when compared to the bill I was imagining...

Anyhow, I guess the problem wasn't easy for them to find, so if you know of anyone else with this trouble, let them know to check the computer wiring.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
If you can (and know..) could you describe where the wire was, physically, etc?

also (for posterity), was your PATS light behaving as mine was? You said earlier that you weren't sure, but would check.
 
Ray said:
If you can (and know..) could you describe where the wire was, physically, etc?

also (for posterity), was your PATS light behaving as mine was? You said earlier that you weren't sure, but would check.
Click to expand...
And what color was the wire?
 
sorry, my computer was down.

No, my Pats light didn't blink with each stumble.

Here's what my bill says

"Found that shaking PCM harness would cause vehicle to stall. Removed Coil pack to access harness. Inspect wires. Found 4 wires damaged. Repaired wires. Reinstalled coil."

I tried to contact the mechanic to find out what color the wires were, but I didn't have any luck.

thanks again for all your help!
 
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