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Anyone with a Spec Stage 3+ Clutch?

JesusFreak

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 28, 2004
Messages
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Location
ATL
I am looking to get a stage 3+ clutch for my 3L build, but want to know how they feel, and if there is alot of clutch chatter, etc etc?

Any information I can get will be extremely helpful as I try and pick out a clutch for my build!

I am going to have a nitrous setup, with at least a 100 shot, so please keep that in mind when recommennding clutches!
 
I only have a few hundred miles on mine but I have to say the feel is like stock. The pedal is easier to depress then stock at first, mine it starting to stiffen up some. I get zero chatter from mine but I also have the coated gears.
 
I only have a few hundred miles on mine but I have to say the feel is like stock. The pedal is easier to depress then stock at first, mine it starting to stiffen up some. I get zero chatter from mine but I also have the coated gears.


OK, coated gears? PLease explain for me as I am ignorant...

Also, was looking at the Unorthodox Racing 6 paddle Ultra G Ceramic sprung hub clutch... anyone have any takes on this clutch kit?
 
I've had literally every clutch possiblity from SE to SVT to every stage of Spec clutches, and I'd only recommend a stock SVT clutch or 3 or 3+ for any build. If someone is going for a beast N/A 3L, even with a small shot of nos, I'd still recommend the stock SVT clutch as it was made for longevity and it still is a wonderful not chattery and hard grabbing clutch. If you car going for boost or a huge shot of nos like you say, I'd go for the stage 3+ if you are worried about driveability. The stage 3+ being a full face clutch is pretty easy to drive daily, but like all spec clutches you can expect clutch chatter. The stage 3 is a great clutch if you either want to save some money and therefore sacrifice a little driveablity or it is a perfect clutch if you are someone who does lots of burnouts or takes your SVT to the track. The stage 3 is better for crazy driving and launches as it is the 6 puck design instead of a full face clutch so it has better cooling characteristics. I personally went with the stage 3+ in my 3L turbo for the longevity of the clutch as well as the daily driveablity. Both will hold more power than we can throw at them so that isn't the issue. I just knew I wasn't ever going to be doing burnouts or hard launches in my 3L turbo as I would go nowhere so I figured I'd spend the extra dime and go with the stage 3+. It is all a matter of opinion but I never like my stage 2 or stage 2+ and I'd avoid stage 1 because you mine as well just go with a stock SVT clutch if you are going stage 1. HOpe this helps a bit.


Reebs
 
I've had literally every clutch possiblity from SE to SVT to every stage of Spec clutches, and I'd only recommend a stock SVT clutch or 3 or 3+ for any build. If someone is going for a beast N/A 3L, even with a small shot of nos, I'd still recommend the stock SVT clutch as it was made for longevity and it still is a wonderful not chattery and hard grabbing clutch. If you car going for boost or a huge shot of nos like you say, I'd go for the stage 3+ if you are worried about driveability. The stage 3+ being a full face clutch is pretty easy to drive daily, but like all spec clutches you can expect clutch chatter. The stage 3 is a great clutch if you either want to save some money and therefore sacrifice a little driveablity or it is a perfect clutch if you are someone who does lots of burnouts or takes your SVT to the track. The stage 3 is better for crazy driving and launches as it is the 6 puck design instead of a full face clutch so it has better cooling characteristics. I personally went with the stage 3+ in my 3L turbo for the longevity of the clutch as well as the daily driveablity. Both will hold more power than we can throw at them so that isn't the issue. I just knew I wasn't ever going to be doing burnouts or hard launches in my 3L turbo as I would go nowhere so I figured I'd spend the extra dime and go with the stage 3+. It is all a matter of opinion but I never like my stage 2 or stage 2+ and I'd avoid stage 1 because you mine as well just go with a stock SVT clutch if you are going stage 1. HOpe this helps a bit.


Reebs


I really would like to find a way to minimize chatter as much as possible... which is my biggest concern!
 
I really would like to find a way to minimize chatter as much as possible... which is my biggest concern!

Keep the stock flywheel, and don't buy an aftermarket clutch. :crazy:

BRAPPLE will get some clutch chatter after 1,000 miles or so whether or not he has coated internals. Mine didn't chatter at first either.
 
The stage 3 + is great. I have it and its your best bet for chatter. It uses a stage 5 pressure plate that can hold alot more tourqe than we need, like Reebs mentions. The coated gears has no effect on clutch chatter at all.
 
Keep the stock flywheel, and don't buy an aftermarket clutch. :crazy:

BRAPPLE will get some clutch chatter after 1,000 miles or so whether or not he has coated internals. Mine didn't chatter at first either.

Yeah, not gonna happen! LOL I already ahve the fidanza flywheel, and I am either getting a spec stage 3+ or a unorthodox racing clutch (as stated above)... I am leaning towards SPEC, but I hate chatter... Oh well, the car running well is a bigger priority!
 
unless i am off I thought that clutch chatter was vibration felt through the clutch on take off ... and the noise that everyone calls clutch chatter is really gear roll over noise, ie that turning type sound when the clutch is out and the trans is in neutral ... lightened flywheels make the gear roll over noise louder then stock ...
 
unless i am off I thought that clutch chatter was vibration felt through the clutch on take off ... and the noise that everyone calls clutch chatter is really gear roll over noise, ie that turning type sound when the clutch is out and the trans is in neutral ... lightened flywheels make the gear roll over noise louder then stock ...
you can hear chatter at idle with the clutch out iirc

i remember buritta was upset because you could hear the chatter standing next to his car in his 400+whp video.
 
unless i am off I thought that clutch chatter was vibration felt through the clutch on take off ... and the noise that everyone calls clutch chatter is really gear roll over noise, ie that turning type sound when the clutch is out and the trans is in neutral ... lightened flywheels make the gear roll over noise louder then stock ...

On CEG, we refer to gear roll over noise as clutch chatter... it has nothing to do with the vibration felt in the clutch peddle when trying to slip a hard grabbing clutch.
 
On CEG, we refer to gear roll over noise as clutch chatter...


ok that is what I thought. I have absolutely zero at this time. I am using a SVT flywheel (new) with the spec stage 3+. I'll have to see what happens in the future but the feed back was the coated gears reduced if not eliminated "clutch chatter"
 
I have a stage 3+ and a 8lb fidanza and I've got 0 chatter. None while idling - some vibration under WOT - I love the 3+. Smoked my spec 1 in under 15K.
 
On Vader I have a spec stage 2 with spec flywheel and it chatters big time and has the notorious drone that I cannot stand!

On my 3l turbo it has a spec stage 3 with the fidanza flywheel and I can barely hear any chatter, and no droning at all, the stage 2 compared to stage 3 imo are night and day differances, the stage 3 is better by far in every way imo.
 
Clutch chatter and gear roll over are not the same thing. Gear rollover is the lash in the gears hitting against each other. It gets magnified with aftermarket clutches/flywheels, as theres less dampening.

Clutch chatter is: "Clutch chatter is a grabbing or jerking condition that occurs when the clutch is engaged." Those six pucks magnify this as well as they have a harsher engagement. Nobody really should be a standard stage three in a Contour. The 3+ is way better suited for driveability and not to mention it can hold more touqe.

The coating can not completely cure roll over or chatter. It will help with rollover some. After a while it will come back at least a little as the coating is worn in. You will not be able to see the coating on a gear after its fully worked in. It becomes impregnated into the metal.
 
i've got a SPEC 3+. plus chatter @ idle, plus droning on slow take offs.

Thats not chatter your hearing. Thats the TOB rattling around on the pressure plate. Pretty much everyone with a Spec and other aftermarket clutchs have this issue. I had the droning on take offs too. I believe it went away with some mileage.
 
Clutch chatter and gear roll over are not the same thing. Gear rollover is the lash in the gears hitting against each other. It gets magnified with aftermarket clutches/flywheels, as theres less dampening.

Clutch chatter is: "Clutch chatter is a grabbing or jerking condition that occurs when the clutch is engaged." Those six pucks magnify this as well as they have a harsher engagement. Nobody really should be a standard stage three in a Contour. The 3+ is way better suited for driveability and not to mention it can hold more touqe.

The coating can not completely cure roll over or chatter. It will help with rollover some. After a while it will come back at least a little as the coating is worn in. You will not be able to see the coating on a gear after its fully worked in. It becomes impregnated into the metal.

this is new to me. thanx for the info livin. its just that terms seem to catch on around here really fast. one person says a word, right or wrong, b4 you know it, we're all using it. anyways... yeah, what he said;)
 
Thats not chatter your hearing. Thats the TOB rattling around on the pressure plate. Pretty much everyone with a Spec and other aftermarket clutchs have this issue. I had the droning on take offs too. I believe it went away with some mileage.

I Just installed a Spec 3+ on my 3L and i have that droning sound on slow take offs. Should i be worried or will it go away. I have about 200 Miles on it.
 
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