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Horn Problems

M

Matt R

Hard-core CEG'er
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Jun 6, 2004
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Location
Plattsburgh, NY
So some idiot stopped in the middle of the road today, and I went to slam on my horn. All I heard was a metallic ping from the steering wheel, and no horn. Horn only works now very occasionally at certain angles, and only when you really jam on the airbag. The horn itself works fine when the car alarm is tripped. No problems with the cruise control, no airbag light flashing, and I know it's not the fuse. Ideas?
 
Remove connector for horn, clean and reinstall.

Works everytime*

The horn is located at the driver's side next to the driver fender splash guard. When you remove the splash guard, you will see it.

* If it doesn't, you need a new horn.
 
I'd not EXPECT it to be the horn connectors under the bumper (as Tony does) since it works flawlessly with your alarm.

The proper troubleshooting order would be:

  • put 12 volts on your horn. works? if no replaceit.. If yes, then:
  • hold horn switch (wheel) down and measure for 12 volts at horn connector.
    If 12 volts exists then check the physical connection between your horn and the connector for corrosion or rust, etc, if NO voltage then move on up the line
  • check clock spring in the steering wheel. (this is my guess as you heard that metallic ping that first time only)
  • lastly, you could check your relay, etc.

I'd vote on the spring at this preliminary stage, but we'll have to wait and see what you find.
 
Now it's working ok. Wouldn't before. I don't think it fixed itself though. Could it still be the clockspring even if the cruise/airbag work ok?
 
"could be", yes.

Normally a complete failure would eliminate all three, but its failed in ways to remove one, or two of them before.
 
Finally got a warm day to get outside and pull stuff apart. Unplugged the horns and hooked up a multimeter to the wire. On an average of pressing the horn button about 5 times, about 3 of those times would register as ~12v; the other 2 times would show up as ~2v. Moved next to the fuse box. This is where the problem was. About a year ago, I used one of those things that taps into a fuse hole, but retains the stock fuse also. Well, it wouldn't fit in the under-dash fuse box, so I ran it to the under-hood box. As it turns out, the fuse I added on to was the hazard lights/horn. Sure enough, with removing that and putting the regular fuse back in place, a steady 12v every time pushing the horn.
 
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