Static
CEG'er
does anybody have pics of the pulse wheel on the stock 03 merc sable motor vs. how it needs to be placed for use with the 2.5 timing cover???
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got pics of correct/incorrect pulse wheel
- Thread starter Static
- Start date
MapOfTaziFoSho
Hard-core CEG'er
i dont have the diagram, but do not guess at it, otherwise your car will not run!
Static
CEG'er
where can I get a diagram?
Static
CEG'er
here is a better question. I have read though about 200 post of mods that have to be done before you can drop this in the car and yet nobody has posted before and after pics of the mods. The fuel rail is the only thing I have really seen with good pics. Pics would help me out a ton. Like where to cut/modify the pilot bushing and just stuff like that. I am pretty much doing this by myself and having never done a swap on a newer car like this (mostly just older cars with little or no computer controlled stuff) I need as much help as possible.
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
That's not true. Many people have posted before and after pics, including me back in the day.
I don't like the full 3L swap in versus the 3L converted to 2.5L intakes. THe conversion is so easy as to only take a few hours of your time with proper care and it allows EVERYTHING else to be completely stock on bolt up and maintenance. This means you get the same reliability of components instead of potential headaches if you've hacked some stuff up, like the IAC circuit, PCV, EGR, and most especially fuel rail. Not a problem if you get it all put together right, but more to go wrong with it. Know what I mean?
Anyway, there are little marks on the pulse wheel, one says 30 and the other says 25.
Pick the orientation that says 25. It isn't rocket science, when you look at it you will see the marks and two keyways. oriented with those marks. Just pick the keyway closest to the 25 stamp.
I don't like the full 3L swap in versus the 3L converted to 2.5L intakes. THe conversion is so easy as to only take a few hours of your time with proper care and it allows EVERYTHING else to be completely stock on bolt up and maintenance. This means you get the same reliability of components instead of potential headaches if you've hacked some stuff up, like the IAC circuit, PCV, EGR, and most especially fuel rail. Not a problem if you get it all put together right, but more to go wrong with it. Know what I mean?
Anyway, there are little marks on the pulse wheel, one says 30 and the other says 25.
Pick the orientation that says 25. It isn't rocket science, when you look at it you will see the marks and two keyways. oriented with those marks. Just pick the keyway closest to the 25 stamp.
Pale Horse
Veteran CEG'er
Beat me to it Tom!!!! What he said, Cody.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Static
CEG'er
can you point me in that directions cause I have searched though about 400 post and never find pics of the pulse wheel or pilot bushing. I can find the pics of motor mounts and where to cut the ears on the block and the fuel rails but thats about it
Here is a picture that I posted in this old thread.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=3L&Number=365925&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
Don't forget, the installed orientation of the pulsewheel is dependant on the front cover being used. Specifically, the location of the crank sensor in the front cover. Some have the sensor on the left, some on the right, hence the two slots nearly 180° apart.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=3L&Number=365925&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&vc=1
Don't forget, the installed orientation of the pulsewheel is dependant on the front cover being used. Specifically, the location of the crank sensor in the front cover. Some have the sensor on the left, some on the right, hence the two slots nearly 180° apart.
Static
CEG'er
so If I am doing a straight 3l swap do I still need to switch the wheel or do you just leave it alone?
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
Why do you ask when you haven't listed which side of the timing cover the crank sensor is on?
I thought it was self explanatory but:
If you sit on your engine looking out over the belt system, the pulleys and such and the transmission behind you then that which is two your right is the right-hand side....etc.
So the if your crank pickup sensor is to the left side as it is in the 2.5L contour, then use the 2.5side.
If the crank sensor is on the right side as it is in the 3.0L Taurus/Sable engines, then use 3.0 side.
If it is an Escape 3L then it has the sensor on the left side and use the 2.5setting.
Clear enough?
I thought it was self explanatory but:
If you sit on your engine looking out over the belt system, the pulleys and such and the transmission behind you then that which is two your right is the right-hand side....etc.
So the if your crank pickup sensor is to the left side as it is in the 2.5L contour, then use the 2.5side.
If the crank sensor is on the right side as it is in the 3.0L Taurus/Sable engines, then use 3.0 side.
If it is an Escape 3L then it has the sensor on the left side and use the 2.5setting.
Clear enough?
Static
CEG'er
sorry about that it was a misunderstanding between me and palehorse and what you guys said
MapOfTaziFoSho
Hard-core CEG'er
That's not true. Many people have posted before and after pics, including me back in the day.
I don't like the full 3L swap in versus the 3L converted to 2.5L intakes. THe conversion is so easy as to only take a few hours of your time with proper care and it allows EVERYTHING else to be completely stock on bolt up and maintenance. This means you get the same reliability of components instead of potential headaches if you've hacked some stuff up, like the IAC circuit, PCV, EGR, and most especially fuel rail. Not a problem if you get it all put together right, but more to go wrong with it. Know what I mean?
Anyway, there are little marks on the pulse wheel, one says 30 and the other says 25.
Pick the orientation that says 25. It isn't rocket science, when you look at it you will see the marks and two keyways. oriented with those marks. Just pick the keyway closest to the 25 stamp.
After having done the FULL 3L swap. If I could go back and do it Tom/Demon method, I would. :blackeye:
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
Well but think about everything you learned from the process... That's got to be worth something. Hell aint nuthing truly learned unless you suffer some consequences. After that you learn really well.
BTW, you do know I got nothing against your opinions, or your right to those opinions that we discussed in other threads right? I don't agree but I'm cool with you speaking your mind.
That's got to be worth something. Hell aint nuthing truly learned unless you suffer some consequences. After that you learn really well.BTW, you do know I got nothing against your opinions, or your right to those opinions that we discussed in other threads right? I don't agree but I'm cool with you speaking your mind.
MapOfTaziFoSho
Hard-core CEG'er
Oh, I assumed well enough.
DemonSVT
CEG'er
That certainly seems to be a common afterthought. You can find those same feelings and reflections in numerous posts on both sites. (here & NECO)
...and Tom used my method since I did it first.
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
Bull****, you can be mine....er wrong movie. :idea:
Anyway, we both had our projects under way at the same time sucka...take it back!
Anyway, we both had our projects under way at the same time sucka...take it back!
DemonSVT
CEG'er
Not true. Mine was started and finished before yours was even started. 9/03Anyway, we both had our projects under way at the same time sucka...take it back!
Don't worry. You still have the custom turbo thing hands down. A few times even. :laugh:
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
Not true. Mine was started and finished before yours was even started. 9/03
Don't worry. You still have the custom turbo thing hands down. A few times even. :laugh:
Even though I ahh, I can't remember the dates
but I remember our discussions as we were hammering out the best way to do it and I do remember you started first and finished first. So there...that's the best you'll get from me.96BlackSE
CEG'er
OK I can't take this anymore!!!
Converting oval ports to split ports by porting the way people are doing is just stupid...
Think! The stock split ports have separate primary and secondary ports until the combustion chamber, the primary port is the only port with the injector and the secondary port just delivers extra air at higher rpms...
In the oval ports you have 1 port per cylinder where all the air entering the combustion chamber is mixed properly before it enters the combustion chamber...
Now when you convert the oval port to split port you are feeding 2 unequal length, unequal size runners right before entering combustion chamber and your thinking the fuel is getting mixed properly?!?!!?!?!?!!?!?!?!!!!!
Not only you are killing velocity but why even use a dual runner UIM which is not even meant to be used in this fashion...
If you want to keep the stock look for UIM purposes use the proper heads...
Converting oval ports to split ports by porting the way people are doing is just stupid...
Think! The stock split ports have separate primary and secondary ports until the combustion chamber, the primary port is the only port with the injector and the secondary port just delivers extra air at higher rpms...
In the oval ports you have 1 port per cylinder where all the air entering the combustion chamber is mixed properly before it enters the combustion chamber...
Now when you convert the oval port to split port you are feeding 2 unequal length, unequal size runners right before entering combustion chamber and your thinking the fuel is getting mixed properly?!?!!?!?!?!!?!?!?!!!!!
Not only you are killing velocity but why even use a dual runner UIM which is not even meant to be used in this fashion...
If you want to keep the stock look for UIM purposes use the proper heads...
muntus
Veteran CEG'er
Do you, or anyone else, for that matter, have dyno results that show that cars without the Contour UIM outperform(on average) those cars with the Contour UIM? I would be interested to find out.