• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

fuse holder

i would sugest reading the label on the bottom of your amps...look for something to the effect of max amps, max current, ect... add the two amp's max currents and get a fuse as close as posible to that value...

if you are POSITIVE that your "watt" ratings are real watts then you can calculate the amperage ...for example..Power(watts)=voltageXcurrent...so W/V=current...so if your amp really puts out 500W it would pull 36.2amps...500W/13.8V=36.2A

you must be positive about the watts because sony and some other brands labeled their amps with higher values to make it look cool...ie some sony amps say like 1000W and are only a few hundred...don't usually matter until you have to determine a fuse value on your own

FYI-if you don't understand this kinda thing or do it wrong you can really f stuff up so be carefull!!
 
yeah i looked at the amp specs and the 300w is 40 and the 500w is 50 so i'm guessing 90A fuse in the fuse holder will be good...but it takes two fuses in it so i suppose i should put a 40A fuse and a 50A fuse in there. oh yeah, and if anyone knows where the hell you put the fuses in that stinger fuse holder lemme know....i'm sure i'll figure it out tho when the fuses arrive.
 
mackgeezy said:
you fuse the wire not the amp ... meaning if its real 0 gauge then you fuse it to 300amps ...
Click to expand...

You CAN fuse 1/0 as high as 300A, that doesn't mean you HAVE to. Fusing at somewhere near the max current draw of the amps only means a little bit higher safety factor.

Twang, you don't HAVE to use two fuses - It might be a little easier and a couple bucks cheaper to just put in a 100A and call it good.

It looks like the lid should unscrew to install the fuse(s).
 
Liquid_force said:
You CAN fuse 1/0 as high as 300A, that doesn't mean you HAVE to. Fusing at somewhere near the max current draw of the amps only means a little bit higher safety factor.

Twang, you don't HAVE to use two fuses - It might be a little easier and a couple bucks cheaper to just put in a 100A and call it good.

It looks like the lid should unscrew to install the fuse(s).
Click to expand...


well he has to big of wire for what he has ... so in that case i guess but really he wasted his money on the 0 gauge ... when he should of gotten 4 guage
 
mackgeezy said:
but really he wasted his money on the 0 gauge ... when he should of gotten 4 guage
Click to expand...

Yup.... I love ppl that come in with their 1600W amps, and they think it's the greatest thing in the world because it's high, when in actuality it only puts out like 200W RMS... The average consumer isn't going to need much more than 4 gauge.... When you start to actually need setups with wire larger than 4 gauge your probably going to also be looking into high output alternators and multiple Ultima Yellow top batteries or scosche EFX batteries. Just don't go buying the wal-mart crap, it usually is like 4 or 5 gauge, but the inside wire is usually like 8 gauge, the sheathing is 4 gauge, the wire is no where near that..... Take a Rockford Fosgate 4 Gauge wire and take a el cheapo wal-mart 4 gauge kit, they are completely different sizes on the wire part.
 
Putting 2 fuses won't add the values together. If you have a 50 at the front, and a 40 at the back, and get a short, just the 50 will fuse. If you manage to pull 42 amps, then the back will just blow. I'd stick with one 90 or 100 and leave it at that.
 
Uses 2 Stinger MIDI fuses ranging from 30 to 175 amps (Max rating for fuseholder is 350 amps using two 175 amp fuses)

And the amps i'm using are JL's so I think they'll run relatively close to what they say they do ;)
 
Why are you putting this glowing voltage reading fuse holder under your hood? who do you expect to impress or what advantage do you expect to get knowing the voltage of your battery 1' away from the post? Seriously, just admit you are getting it because it "looks cool".

The fuse under the hood is for your protection, The distribution fuses in the back are for the amps protection. Just get a standard 100-150A ANL inline fuse holder or a circuit breaker for under your hood, it will be more than enough rating for what little current your pushing. The only reason for the under hood fuse is for your protection and the vehicle protection incase of a vehicle accident and resulting short.

If you really want to show off to your buddies and the thieves who will try to steal your stuff than do it in the trunk where it actually matters. This is where you get picky with the fuses because you are protecting your amps. (even though they protect themselves).
Check out this little # All the blue lights you could ever want and a DUAL digital display!! this will have the kids in the highschool parking lot drooling!
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/1557827/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046
 
Gee thanks i didnt know what the fuse holder was for, I just bought it for the heck of it. And actually I just wanted to buy a more expensive fuse holder because everything else in the car is going to be nice and i didn't wanna cheap out on something little like that when I don't have to. I'm not gonna let the fear of people stealing stuff keep me from putting a nice system in my car. And why would I buy something to "look cool" when it goes under the :censored::censored::censored::censored:ing hood...
You really must fancy yourself quite the know-it-all.
 
CarpePoon said:
Why are you putting this glowing voltage reading fuse holder under your hood? who do you expect to impress or what advantage do you expect to get knowing the voltage of your battery 1' away from the post? Seriously, just admit you are getting it because it "looks cool".

The fuse under the hood is for your protection, The distribution fuses in the back are for the amps protection. Just get a standard 100-150A ANL inline fuse holder or a circuit breaker for under your hood, it will be more than enough rating for what little current your pushing. The only reason for the under hood fuse is for your protection and the vehicle protection incase of a vehicle accident and resulting short.
Click to expand...

1. Fusing in the trunk is not needed, amps have their own fuses... :shrug:

CarpePoon said:
If you really want to show off to your buddies and the thieves who will try to steal your stuff than do it in the trunk where it actually matters. This is where you get picky with the fuses because you are protecting your amps. (even though they protect themselves).
Check out this little # All the blue lights you could ever want and a DUAL digital display!! this will have the kids in the highschool parking lot drooling!
Click to expand...

2. He speaks from experience.... :D
 
hes a dumbass for thinking i'm just trying to "show off" because I bought a digital fuse holder...
 
twang said:
hes a dumbass for thinking i'm just trying to "show off" because I bought a digital fuse holder...
Click to expand...

I think i'd get a digital if I were setting up a pure show car, otherwise I'd get a gauge for the a-pillar that did voltage read out....
 
the name calling in this thread will end or i will end it
thank you
 
I'm ok with the name calling, I'm deeply hurt but I'll get over it.
You obviously haven't been around here long enough to read between the lines of my posts, Crap, I dont even think I've posted in the audio boards since before you became a member which is probably why your not familiar with me. I know your in your mid 20's and not in highschool (or at least hope not!).
What I was getting at is that if you wanted quality you shouldn't go with Stinger. Stinger has always been one of the cheaper quality bargin brands usually sold on Ebay. Hell I used to have a Stinger capacitor I bought for $29 on ebay back in college. The only thing that fuse holder has on any other is that it lights up blue and has a digital reading on it. Both of which are absolutly pointless if you are talking about a "quality" audio system. It is all for show and even more pointless if under the hood. Which is why I took a poke at you saying you were wanting to "show off". If you want to show off thats your own thing. Its just there are way too many newbies around here who go for looks as a priority. You obviously know something about quality by going with the JL amps. Your going a bit overkill with the 0 gauge wiring, but too much is always better than not enough.
 
as a matter of fact... I am in highschool...

btw, these fuses are taking forever to get here >_< even though I paid for 2-3 day shipping (which i'll be trying to get refunded) but once the fuses get here i'll be all good to go :cool:
Just gotta order the sub (Image dynamics =]) and a bunch of RAAMat then build a box and i'm set:drool:*drools like the highschool kid that i am*
 
twang said:
as a matter of fact... I am in highschool...

btw, these fuses are taking forever to get here >_< even though I paid for 2-3 day shipping (which i'll be trying to get refunded) but once the fuses get here i'll be all good to go :cool:
Just gotta order the sub (Image dynamics =]) and a bunch of RAAMat then build a box and i'm set:drool:*drools like the highschool kid that i am*
Click to expand...

What size sub are you getting? Sealed box, or ported? How much are you willing to spend? i may know of better options for a lot less. Believe me when i say, i used to buy a lot of audio "name brand" equipment, because i thought "the more you spend on these name brands, the better". I have been proven wrong, and now i buy only these DIY speakers. I started when i was your age as well.

Ren
 
12 inch, sealed box, would prefer to keep it under 300. And i'm just looking for SQ. A big peice that can rattle really loud doesn't tickle my fancy. Of all the reviews i've read and a friends personal opinion the IQDV3 sounds like my best bet. It was a tough call between that and a JL W3V3...
The problem is, I listen to a lot of easy listening stuff like Pink Floyd....but I also listen to a lot of techno/rave music.... So I want a sub that won't just kill everything when i'm listening to some Pink F, but also a sub that can keep up and get low when i'm listening to fast-paced rave stuff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top