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Nitrous folks

J

jitb

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 13, 2005
Messages
83
Location
Conyers, GA
Please chime in.. and give me feedback on what ur using and ur results.... im trying to way out my options and cost, a guy is giving me a good deal on a dry kit. other than cold plugs, what should i install along with it?
 
Your going to need;

Bottle Warmer
Pressure Gauge
Fuel Pressure safety switch(not mandatory but VERY reccomended)
A Custom tune
A Wideband is VERY nice to have but not mandatory
switches
lots of time to do wiring
A Purge kit would be nice
LSD if you plan on spraying in 1st.

basically if your clutch stinks or your diff is on its way out, STAY AWAY.

You should be safe with a 75 shot, Dry shots are ok, with a tune they run perfectly fine. I just prefer a Wet kit.

I mounted my box under the battery, it was kinda a PITA but it makes the car super sleeper.

Mount the nozzle facing towards the TB and inside the intake pipe(make sure it has no leaks and that it isnt spraying against the intake wall)

I made 230WHP and 237WTRQ with my Zex 75 Wet shot, Cost to dyno tune and the chip=600-800 bucks probably, depending on how good of a tune you want.

Your going to want to run TR6's but only in the summer/warm months Anything below 5 degrees Celcius and your car will start to run rough.

let me know if you have any other questions. You can also try searching, i know there is tons of info on the old forums.
 
A few things on Tourige's list could be taken off, just to get you started. Doing everything right, it can get pretty expensive. But you've gotta pay to play! The one thing I'd change about his setup though, is that I'd have the nozzle facing AWAY from the throttle body plate, to let the nitrous atomize before going through the throttle body and into the intake manifolds.
Also, some tracks will check to see if you have a blow down tube on the bottle. Just another safety feature.

Mark
 
i have heard of people pointing the nozzle away to let it atomize, but if you have your filter at the stock location, your pretty much just soaking your intake with fuel..... keep in mind the fuel/air will atomize in the upper intake manifold, fairly well.

i started out with:

nitrous kit
3 switch panel
bottle warmer
Purge Kit
Pressure guage
Fuel pressure guage(in place of safety switch)


but to support it i have:

MSD DIS-4
1step colder plugs
9mm ford racing wires
SAFC
Wideband 02
2.5" exhaust (it is recommended that if you use a stock exhaust to remove the cat/precats, or at least gut them. restrictive exhausts can cause backfires, not necessarily with a 75 shot or lower, though.)

i made 258HP/260TQ with a bad clutch. the nitrous took the stock clutch out after running through about 5 bottles. like these folks are saying, i would consider doing the supporting mods before just bolting a kit on the car, that can cause dangerous situations that will cost you double in teh future, I.E. when you blow a hole in the trans case and have to buy a whole new tranny instead of just a LSD and a clutch.....etc. good luck!
 
i'm running a stock diff and using in first now, i should add that my stock clutch had 88k on it when i started spraying on it. i use nitrous at 4k rpm to make sure that i won't lug the engine hard, also. tourige has a point there, a low mileage stock clutch should handle the nitrous just fine, mine was just on the verge anyhow, the nitrous set it over the top (and hard launches, lol)
 
TRicker said:
i have heard of people pointing the nozzle away to let it atomize, but if you have your filter at the stock location, your pretty much just soaking your intake with fuel..... keep in mind the fuel/air will atomize in the upper intake manifold, fairly well.
Click to expand...

Well, first let me say that doing this with a wet kit is probably a bad idea. Im thinking this advice was for those going dry.

Second, I have no idea how far the mixture would be able to back track against the incoming air, so. . . .
 
i actually actuated the system with the nozzle out of the intake to see myself......it will blow a ways im pretty darn sure, although i had a rag about 6 inches from it to catch the mixture, so i dont know how far it will go, but it would definatley hit the filter on my car. yoru probably right though, thats probably only done with dry kits.
 
Did you have it above idle when you did this? A lot more air is coming in above 3500ish RPM than it is while sitting. And since you only spray over _____ RPM, well, you can see where Im going with this.

Still curious. . . .
 
i spray from like 2500 rpms if i want to show the increase in power. When im at the strip i just drive NA in 1st, flip the switch when i hit second and just let the giggle juice throw me through the 1/4
 
SVT SNOB said:
I set mine to spray 50rpm after the secondaries open :), my winter tires hated it.

Aaron
Click to expand...


I wouldent have even tried on winter tires.. i would get mega wheel hop/spin in 2nd.

The only thing im super scared of doing is shifting super fast because i have a WOT throttle system and sometimes i like to power shift.

Sometimes i wish i went with a window switch setup.
 
Tourige said:
I wouldent have even tried on winter tires.. i would get mega wheel hop/spin in 2nd.

The only thing im super scared of doing is shifting super fast because i have a WOT throttle system and sometimes i like to power shift.

Sometimes i wish i went with a window switch setup.
Click to expand...


Yeah true, but these Dunlop Graspic S2 tires are awesome, I knew they would spin I just wanted to see how thwy would hold up :D. At least now I know. I did get some wheel hop and also spun through the first 3 gears. Mine is all WOT and I powershifted which wasn't the best thing to so. Leason learned.

Aaron
 
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