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Turning and Accelerating problem!

Q

qbcsvt

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
3,145
Location
Up North New Jersey
Having a problem while making a left and accelerating! making a right is perfectly normal and stable!

When I make a left with no acceleration or accelerate regularly everything works perfect!

But when I make a left and accelerate hard, everything shakes on the right(passenger) wheel! Kind of like a constant bump. I dont hear any where noises.

I think my passenger struts are shot even tho the PO told me he switched them a year b4 I bought the car and searches on CEG confirm it!

But even before this started happening i new my struts need replacing. Is there any other parts/bushings I should check.

All my money is getting dumped into a built tranny right now so Koni's and GC's are gonna have to w8!

After my tranny is installed and completed im dedicating to the suspension so it shouldnt be to long when i start my suspension overhaul!

CSVT 3L, BAT KIT(probably 25k max), 103K miles on car!

any bushings i should check???

- amyn
 
check the axle nut first to make sure its tight. then get the wheel off the ground and check the breaking using the o'clock test, push and pull on the wheel at 12 and 6 for the bearing and 9 and 3 for the tie rods ...
 
i did a quick search on a how to for the 12/6 and 9/3 test and nothing came up.

Do i physically push the rim in and out( like trying to push the car sideways while the tire sits at a str8 position?) while it is in the air.

Also when I do this what am I listening/looking for as normal or as broken???

Thanks

- amyn
 
OK I got that completed. What I seem to see is that http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlo...P080&callout=1&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0
number one is has some play in it. i mean i got the wheel off and tried to turn/steer the rotor as if im trying to turn and i see number one moving around extremely without any strength. What can be done to fix it.

The link that goes from the front sway bar to about mid strut i cannot move by hand!

- amyn
 
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#1 in that diagram is the tie rod. if that has exsessive movement then it can just be replaced. To make sure thats the problem disconnect it from the hub and if its overly easy to move by hand then it should be replaced.

now it could also be your inner tie rod ends as I noted during your 3L swap they where worn. good ones will sit where you put them, yours just fell down due to gravity. I think both sides where shot.
 
Ya those suckers have Excessive play after removing them from the hub!

I only see inner tie rods for up to 15" rims number 3 in the diagram http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlo...P080&callout=1&catalogid=1&displayCatalogid=0

Mine do still fall so I guess im going to have to get both those suckers!

Besides the Inner and Outer tie rods what else would I need or is suggested to do this properly. Is there any hardware I might need to get to do this properly? Any type of upgrades or better parts out there that are available? Otherwise i just need to make it thru the weekend and a couple b4 the stuff comes from Bill Jenkins!

How hard is the installation for the inner tie rods. Is their anything special to take them out? Since they like to hang wherever you leave them technically!

- amyn
 
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What a timely thread!

I'm having what appears to be the same exact symptoms...except in my case, I can't tell WHERE the vibration is coming from. I've been suspecting the right wheel since it doesn't happen when turning right.

On mine though, it would even sometimes shake when driving straight....and accelerating...but not always. But ALWAYS when turning left under harder acceleration.

Anyway, never replaced any tie rods myself. That's always been something I left to a shop. How tough is this job to do? Any special tools needed?
 
ck42 said:
Anyway, never replaced any tie rods myself. That's always been something I left to a shop. How tough is this job to do? Any special tools needed?
Click to expand...

no real trick and there is no reason to have a shop do this job. If the outer tie rod end is stock it has a 15 mm nut holding it into the knuckle. I like to put the nut on upside down and use a hammer to hit the nut to pop the tie rod end free. Actually it woudl be best to lossen the jamb nut first before removing from the knuckle. Then count the number of turns it takes to remove the tie rod and make sure you turn the new one on the same number of times and the alignment should be just about right on. Tighten jam nut and re-install tie-rod end into the knuckle.
 
Same here...took the wheel off and I don't see any movement in the tie rods (inner or outer). But, what I *DO* see is a bunch of black goop on all the surrounding surfaces all around the inner CV joint boot :O It's about the same consistency as wheel bearing grease.

Felt around that boot and can't seem to tell if there are any tears in the boot...but it's gotta the grease from the boot.

So...could a bad inner CV joint cause these vibration symptoms being described here?
(Not wanting to hijack the thread...it's just that we appear to be having the EXACT same symptoms and behaviors so far)
 
I cannot get the boot off of the inner tie rod..... The outside of the boot came off easily but the inner tie rod i cannot get the boot off of it to completely change it....

Any help im in the middle of doing this...

Thanks

- amyn
 
I have gotten the boot off...... i saw the clamp that was holding it in place...

Now that the inner tie rod is completely visible the part that is supposed 2 spin doesnt have any type of way of grabbing it....

- amyn
 
Ok after dealing with the Inner Tie Rods for a good couple hours, I realized I myself will NOT be able to remove them. After looking through the old forums I see that in order to remove the Inner Tie Rod I have to remove the Subframe to get access to the Steering rack or something like that...

So I just replaced the Right Outer Tie Rod(Passenger Side) Not my inner tie rod still drops and I know is shot....

What can I do about this??

- amyn
 
Well the outer tie rod is installed on the pass side

I did the 3-9 test on the drivers side and it looks like that sucker is shot to so tomorrow i should have the new outer tie rod for that side and we will see how everything works out...

- amyn
 
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