• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Switched oils

9

97vulcan

CEG'er
Joined
May 22, 2007
Messages
456
Location
Wisconsin
I was running Mobil 1 Full synthetic in my SVT for about 6k, That was my 1st oil change since i've owned the car. then just today I went to valvoline and had them do an oil change with reg. dino oil 5w-30. My question is, will this switch give me any issues? also the dude doing the oil change said he put in 6qts which brought it to the fill line. This doesn't seem right. 6qts would put it past the full mark. right? Also is valvoline dino oil any good on an engine with 143k?

thanks!
Adam
 
valvoline makes good oil, however I strongly would suggest against switching between dino and Syn oil back and fourth, you should be fine this time around, but you are supposed to "train" your gaskets on the motor for the certain type of oil you want to use, I would suggest next time around, going with a synthetic blend, Mobil 1 makes an AWESOME blend oil that is good for 7500 mile (which I only use till 5000) thats only like 3.50 a quart (as opposed to $5 a quart for their full syn).

As for your full line situation, I have no idea.
 
i have never heard anything about training gaskets.

adding 6 quarts would make it be at the full line if not a little higher. the spec calls for IIRC 5.7 qts. a lot of people including me run 6.5 qts.

the oil that was put in I'm sure is fine. remember dino oil has come a long way and its not that far behind syth.
 
If you have regular dino oil, make sure you change the oil at 3K miles/3 month intervals. Most times, with high mileage cars, it is recommended that synthetic or dino formulated for high mileage oils be used. But one oil change with regular dino oil will not hurt the engine. Just don't go autocrossing or doing the Daytona 24 until the next oil change.

You should put 6.3 quarts for the SVT. Max line should be 5.8 quarts but we recommend half quart past max line due to the oil starvation issue.
 
Thank you guys for your comments! I will let the car sit a bit, then check the level. If need be, I will pick up a quart from the auto store. :) I am sure the car doesn't mind whether its dino or synthetic. Just want to keep it running like a champ!

Adam
 
Tony2005 said:
Most times, with high mileage cars, it is recommended that synthetic or dino formulated for high mileage oils be used.
Click to expand...

I completely do not agree with this at all. The high milage oil might be fine every few oil changes but don't use it all of the time.


the rear main seal is leaking on my zetec, so i started using the high milage oil. all was great for 3 oil changes, the leak lessened, then it got worse.

now the whol eoil pan is leaking I believe but that is another story ...
 
97vulcan said:
I was running Mobil 1 Full synthetic in my SVT for about 6k, That was my 1st oil change since i've owned the car. then just today I went to valvoline and had them do an oil change with reg. dino oil 5w-30. My question is, will this switch give me any issues? also the dude doing the oil change said he put in 6qts which brought it to the fill line. This doesn't seem right. 6qts would put it past the full mark. right? Also is valvoline dino oil any good on an engine with 143k?

thanks!
Adam
Click to expand...
As has been beaten to death ad-nauseam, there's so little difference between synthetic and dino oils these days that it should only be a matter of owner preference, not engine performance, on whether or not synthetic is used. On an engine with 143K, I wouldn't start using synth only because it could bring out any faults in the sealing system of the engine. That is, if there's a leak about to start, using synth can greatly magnify the issue. At any rate, sticking with dino will be fine. I use 6 quarts but if it makes you feel better, add another half.

And the only trained seals are at Sea World or some other amusement park. :nonono:
Karl
 
Changing between both should have no ramifications at all. It's a myth that synth based oil will eat up your seals.

Personally I would use Walmart Synth oil and change it according to the owners manual. Wally Worl synth oil is cheap synth oil and does the same job as other synth oils while saving U $$$. This subject has been beaten to death and it's all specultion and myth. API oil tech articles also demonstrate that oil leaks due to synth oils is a myth.
Those that claim synth oils exhasberate oil leaks have no proof,and it's all hearsay! If that was the case every BMW. Porsche, Corvette etc would be leaking badly! All have factory fills of synthetic oils.
 
Last edited:
Kevinm said:
Changing between both should have no ramifications at all. It's a myth that synth based oil will eat up your seals.

Personally I would use Walmart Synth oil and change it according to the owners manual. Wally Worl synth oil is cheap synth oil and does the same job as other synth oils while saving U $$$. This subject has been beaten to death and it's all specultion and myth. API oil tech articles also demonstrate that oil leaks due to synth oils is a myth.
Those that claim synth oils exhasberate oil leaks have no proof,and it's all hearsay! If that was the case every BMW. Porsche, Corvette etc would be leaking badly! All have factory fills of synthetic oils.
Click to expand...


Yep, I use Supertech, as well. M1 is a Group III as is Supertech's synthetic.
 
So you bought into the Mobil 1 Group III myth too.

Mobil 1 is not all Group III. It looks like they do use some Group III in blending for certain viscosity groups, but it is still predominately Group IV.

The initial gas chromatograph test results that set this whole thing off on bobistheoilguy may have been from emergency blending to maintain supply after hurricane Katrina knocked out the main refinery that produces Group IV. Subsequent gas chromatograph test has not shown a predominate use of Group III in Mobil 1.
 
Big Jim, good info, I agree, but there is a lot of opposite opinions out there, and they are all opinions with no substantial fact. AMSOIL was the major proponent of spreading that myth. The funny thing is, most don't go the route of extending oil changes when using synths. So it kind of boggles my mind why we even get into such discussions.
 
Big Jim said:
So you bought into the Mobil 1 Group III myth too.

Mobil 1 is not all Group III. It looks like they do use some Group III in blending for certain viscosity groups, but it is still predominately Group IV.

The initial gas chromatograph test results that set this whole thing off on bobistheoilguy may have been from emergency blending to maintain supply after hurricane Katrina knocked out the main refinery that produces Group IV. Subsequent gas chromatograph test has not shown a predominate use of Group III in Mobil 1.
Click to expand...

Jim, can you find the thread supporting this?

Also, any availability of the LC/GC MS data?

Thanks, unfortunately I have not had the time to venture on BITOG for a while.
 
I can only tell you from experience that in our cars more oil is way better than less oil. I killed my 2.5L because I started road racing the car and only thought I was supposed to run 5.5 quarts (according to Ford specs) - oops, very expensive lesson not learned though. I built out a 3L and again ran the car with the recommended 6 quarts (again Ford specs) and poof another engine lost to oil starvation. I am now on my second 3L - this one is ballanced and blueprinted and way overbuilt for what it is (aka money pit) and I run 8 quarts of oil with a 1.5 quart accumulator. So essentially I run a 3L with 6.5 quarts.

Also I bought into the myth and on my new motor only run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. I have no technical expertise or reasoning, but it gives me peace of mind - if it is justified or not remains to be seen.
 
98SVTC said:
As has been beaten to death ad-nauseam, there's so little difference between synthetic and dino oils these days that it should only be a matter of owner preference, not engine performance, on whether or not synthetic is used. On an engine with 143K, I wouldn't start using synth only because it could bring out any faults in the sealing system of the engine. That is, if there's a leak about to start, using synth can greatly magnify the issue. At any rate, sticking with dino will be fine. I use 6 quarts but if it makes you feel better, add another half.

And the only trained seals are at Sea World or some other amusement park. :nonono:
Karl
Click to expand...

Very well said, Karl. :laugh:

I got tired of using Mobil 1 -- it's not as good as they say, I didn't want to pay the high price for it, and I really wanted to get back to using a Ford oil.

I use Motorcraft 5W-30 Synthetic Blend. It's a great oil, and as Big Jim will tell you, manufactured by Conoco, a very high quality refiner. My engine gets great protection, and I get peace of mind that comes with using quality products. Additionally, I've got more money in my pocket since I'm not giving it to Mobil. :cool:

I run 6 quarts even, but do not race the car. I prefer not to have too much oil in the crankcase, as the possibility of foaming the oil is not a good one.
 
I've almost always use Valvoline Full Syn. (almost always on sale) The past couple of months it's been half price(2.50/qt.) at advanced auto with no mail-in crap. I like going at least 7,500mi on an oil change which is why I use synthetic.

Sure some people think valvoline sucks, but you'll find that with ANY brand.
 
Forgot to mention, I also use Motorcraft semi-syn in our freestyle since it is cheap, good quality, and we don't drive it near as much as our CSVT. (wonder why...)
 
Ive used Rotella T for the last 6k miles. Its a little thick for the winter, but perfect for the summer. After talking to a lot of engine builders and racers, I switched. Zinc is where its at. Well it was, till the hippies took it away.

Mark
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top