Is it worth the trouble?

[SVTGT350]

I have a set of these available to me however to install them on my 98 SVT I would need to change the subframe to the later model 2 bolt LCA style. The question is whether it is worth the trouble or not. The cost difference I am looking at is minimal. I need to replace the LCA's and the price of the 4 bolt replacement has gone up. I will be doing all the work myself so there is no labor charge either way.

 

[muntus]

It would help if we could see the picture.:shrug:

 

[SVTGT350]

Should be fixed.

 

[muntus]

I don't see how it would be worth all the trouble. If you have the 4 bolt subframe, that tends to be considered superior to the 2 bolt version. If you're looking to get rid of wheel hop, there are other ways to do it. If you're trying to make an easy job ridiculously difficult, go for it.

Btw, I thought this type of lower control arm did not have enough travel in the heim joint.:shrug:

 

[Rara]

If its still a street car, I'd stick w/ the 4 bolt arms. Putting a spherical bearing on the rear of those two pivot points will send the felt harshness through the roof; every bump will be transmitted into the body directly.
Then again, if you do live in SLO, the roads really aren't bad in your neighborhood, so if you can tolerate getting your fillings shaken out . . . it might be worth it. Btw, cruise on down to Monterey and hit the corkscrew a couple times for me since your close, lol . . . our race series (Koni challenge) won't be heading out there this year .

 

[SVTGT350]

If its still a street car, I'd stick w/ the 4 bolt arms. Putting a spherical bearing on the rear of those two pivot points will send the felt harshness through the roof; every bump will be transmitted into the body directly.

Harshness is my main concern. Although many have installed tham on street driven cougars and claim that is is only slightly harsh but bearable.

Btw, cruise on down to Monterey and hit the corkscrew a couple times for me since your close, lol . . . our race series (Koni challenge) won't be heading out there this year .

You should try going through the corkscrew on the back of a tow truck facing backwards!

 

[bensenvill]

Harshness is my main concern. Although many have installed tham on street driven cougars and claim that is is only slightly harsh but bearable.

being one of those street driven cougars who had them on my car for a year [and off again for almost a year], I can say the harshness isnt too bad. I had difficulties getting mine perfectly aligned and couldn't get the car to sit straight at high speeds, hence why they are off the car at the moment.

 

[Pole120]

Keep your 4-bolts and box them.

 

[Rara]

You should try going through the corkscrew on the back of a tow truck facing backwards!

I've got in-car video of one of our GAC race cars getting bumped going into the corkscrew, spinning, and then going down the corkscrew backwards . . . it was pretty cool, lol.

 

[Bradness]

I have no personal experience with this particular piece, but spherical rod ends do not have any give in the fore/aft dimension. I would expect them to be harsh although the roads you drive on will obviously have an effect. If you lived in SE MI or Western NY, I wouldn't even consider it. Winter freeze/thaw does wonders to asphalt.

Now I do have experience removing frt subframes and it's a HUGE job, plain and simple. And that's if you can actually get all 4 bolts removed w/out having to cut holes in the floor and/or frame rails to access the nuts which often rotate with the bolts.

Even unboxed 4 bolt A arms are strong and the geometry is reasonably good. They're a PITA to change (unless you've got the drivetrain out) and more $$$'s, but far superior to 2 bolts.

 

[striker2]

4 bolt A arms are strong and the geometry is reasonably good.

until you lower the car. i have mine lowered about 2" and after doing some calculations last night i found that my roll center is at or below ground level. Not good. currently my Center of Gravity is sitting at about 12" off the ground. my thoughts are to either raise the ride height back up the 2" OR get a machine shop to fabricate some roll center adjustors for the contour.


whats your thoughts Bradness?

 

[SVTGT350]

I also have plenty of expierence changing subframes on various vehicles including Contours. Yes it a PITA. My goal is to get away from having the offset upper strut mount because I am already on the second set and they are beginning to collapse. I have Koni's and GC's and have the car setup where I want it but I am tired of changing strut mounts.

I am also considering something that would allow the use of the tubular A-arms in the 4 bolt subframe which I think is the best option but also the most expensive.