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changing rod bearings as prevent. maintaince?

95pgt-t said:
thanks for copy and pasting all that for me:eek:
Click to expand...

Your welcome. It really is a pain to copy and paste multiple stuff because computers can only copy one function at a time as far as I know and so I have to friggen go back and edit my post with new copied info, etc...! :)
 
multiple copying, aka Multi-quoting is easy.

click the
multiquote_off.gif
button on each post, in the order you want them in, also clicking your last post you want included, THEN clicking the normal "quote" button on your last post as well.
 
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whoops!

whoops!

Well I kinda forgot about the "dont take a right turn too brisk" thing with these cars and I am begining to hear what sounds like rod knock. It comes and goes so im not totally sold on it yet but SOMETHING was knocking. Actually, thats denial. Its rod knock.
Im hoping changing to a thinner oil will help string it along for a month or three. I cant remember what's in it now but somthing keeps nagging at me that its pretty thick from the summer time.

So can you do rod bearings with the motor in the car?
How easy is it? If its any thing close to doing headers, im upping my insurace and torching the thing.
Ill take a closer look when its up in the air today but Im guessing if the oil pans comes off easy every thing should be ok.


Mark
 
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yeah,alot of people change them in the car,just have to remove the oil pan and ypipe...and go from there.
 
yea i have a pan gasket waiting to get put in, i guess I'm going to look into doing the bearings as well. i haven't done engine internals since i was 17. (H.S.)
 
well i have no evidence to indicate they are going bad or starting to wear out. i was thinking about doing it as stated originally. preventive maintenance.
 
I spun a rod bearing at 80K.
I took a hard right hander one weekend.
2 days later I was doing 130 on a long straight highway.
When I stopped I hear a tapping that sounded like top-end.
It was on Alligator Alley (130 mile road, no exits) so I kept driving.
Almost made it hope, but the bearing disintegrated and I lost oil pressure.

Other problems that can happen from a spun bearing:
1. Elongated rods.
2. Debris in the engine (if the bearing does more than just spin, like in my case)
3. Damaged crank

That is why when you spin a bearing you usually end up replacing the whole motor (at least the block anyways).
 
Ray said:
My guess is that the crank suffered more than we thought when the piston was bent and subsequently replaced. I had a bearing failure on that same cylinder 10-12K miles later and caught it under a simple "after piston replacement check". replaced it before it actually failed and now that one has 10K on it or so as well. its failed completely, though, and I am sure scored the crank this time.
Click to expand...

That's the original post. Unless I have massive dyslexia, I'm reading this:

1. Piston was bent.
2. Piston was replaced, but probably already damaged the crank.
3. Bearing on damaged cylinder goes out at ~10k. (due to existing crank damage).
4. Bearing is replaced.
5. Bearing on damaged cylinder goes out at ~10k. (due to existing crank damage).
6. Bearing fails completely, engine = kaput.

This all makes sense to me... am I missing something?
 
Not really; it doesn't make sense. He has the same one going bad every time because his crank was damaged; if what you're saying is true, EVERY bearing would be going at 10k miles, which is clearly not the case. Unless Ray didn't change ANY of the other ones, which I find highly unlikely.

Ray, wanna shed a little light?
 
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