Results of front Trans Mount Replacement

[mrutkaus]

Replaced Front fender AT transmission mount '95 V6 Mystique. Reduced vibration in gear at idle. Took several hours. Yes remove battery.

Pics are transmission/subframe clearance before, old and new mounts, and clearance after.

Still have hesitation at 2200 rpm type things to work out.

Mike

 

[96_ContourGuy]

Mike,
I've been messing around with replacing these mounts for a long time and haven't gotten to doing that one yet. I'm curious, why did the job take you several hours? When you did this, what obsticals did you encounter? I've read the posts here on replacing them, and from what I see, it shouldn't take that long. I'm just wondering if theres something I'm missing.

Thanks
Rick

 

[Tony2005]

For the ATX, you have to remove the battery and battery tray. The 3 bolts for the mount at the driver fender side are really tight and takes time to remove (one of mine was rusted and it took a long time to remove it. In addition, I was praying it wouldn't break). In addition, if you don't have a power ratchet, it takes more time and there isn't enough room to "swing" the ratchet. Reinstalling takes a little longer too as you have to thread the though-bolt to the mount while "blind", i.e., you can't see the hole for the bolt and you have to adjust the height of the tranny by jacking it up (unless you have a hoist, then you lift it higher or lower by the lifting eye). Another CEGer did this a month or two after me and also had a lot of issues with clearance for "swinging the ratchet" and trying to thread the through-bolt. If I had to do it again, I will have a power ratchet with me.

Plus, it was raining and I fell really ill halfway through the removal of the bolts. No, I don't have a garage or covered porch. :crazy:

 

[mrutkaus]

Tony about summed it up, one of my bolts was quite rusted also, and I too did it carefully, afraid of breaking.

Also I work slowly! Had to sand some of the ends of the new mount to get it to fit in, the rubber covering it made it too wide. The clearance at the bottom of the transmission increased slightly so there is maybe 1/8 or 1/4" to the nearest part of the subframe, frankly not that much difference from the old mount, but it did reduce idle vibration.

Edit: Just been under the car, see rear mount impossible to replace without removing engine, right?

My front mount near the radiator looks generally ok, a little space at the top inside the mount between the rubber insert and the metal frame, but I don't know how sensitive these things are to any little change. I guess I might as well change it and see what happens.

Tell me about the other mounts, how hard are they to replace? I'm beginning to think my 2200 rpm stutter/miss is really one of the other mounts, as my idle in gear stutter was cured by this mount.

Mike

 

[Tony2005]

...Tell me about the other mounts, how hard are they to replace?...

Can't help you there Bud. Mine are still sitting in the box for the past 9 months or so. I bought them thinking I would need them but since I did not issues yet, I decided to wait. :laugh:

 

[Lord Stanley]

I need to get on this soon, atleast with the rear tranny roll restrictor... My car will buck when I shift into second if I am not easy on the clutch, LOL...

 

[twocontours]

Rear can be replaced without removing the engine. Access from below isn't too bad. Throughbolt is sometime easier from the drivers side wheel well.

 

[mrutkaus]

Thanks again, Tony.

Wow, twocontours, I'll have to look again!

Thanks all,

Mike

 

[96_ContourGuy]

Well now. That confirms it. That mount will stay in the box till I have the time to do it!!! :crazy: Actullay, it was my top tranny mount that was blown out real bad. After I did that one, the vibration problem cut down about 75%, and got the the tranny off the frame.
Thanks for the additional insight...
Rick