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Electrical Issues

T

Tomato

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
209
Location
Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Hey guys,

I realize this is really not the appropriate place for this post, but seeing as I cannot post yet in the other areas and most of you EGL guys are in my area I figured it couldn't hurt.

I've been having some electrical issues as of late, I've used the search extensively and still can't find the answer to my problems. Maybe I'm not using the right search criteria.

I'll start with my problem.

Happened the day I picked up the car (go figure) Sitting idled for an extended period of time, car decides to shut itself down, wipers go off, then it starts right back up. Precursor to this was flickering dash/head/interior lights. It did this twice (about a month ago) and has not done it since. However I do notice that I have flickering lights whenever the engine is cold, and I've even had it a few times when it's warm, but it's very evident when it's cold. Also past about 5500RPM, I'll get a flashing Charging System light.

I've tried to diagnose but no solution yet.

Did the MM Alt Test.

Battery comes out good and 12.X volts.
Alternator a constant 14.5 volts across the entire rev range(even past 5500 when the light if flashing multimeter still shows 14.5). This was tested at the battery posts.
Tested the resistance on the MegaFuse, that pans out good too.

The alternator in the car is an OEM Ford one that was replaced about a year ago. I've read of the brushes floating at high RPM's when it's on it's way out, but the output was still 14.5V in the rev range where the problem occurred.

As well I've read up on the "Golden Tour" wiring fix. From what I gathered in the various threads this is used to correct an constant on Charge system light at idle, and flickering in the higher Rev range. Is this true or have I misinterpreted what I read?

I've also seen the "Big 3" upgrade a few times, which I can only assume is upgrading the grounds?

Last but not least I came across a post quote a TSB concerning Oscillating at idle in cold weather which could cause the dimming lights. It recommended a wire upgrade due to increased resistance in cold weather. Anyone familiar with this?

With all that said any help would be most greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Al
 
How many grounds are there to check. From the searches i've done I've found 4 so far. Engine to firewall. Engine to front rad support area. Then battery to to front fender, and then a small ground on the TB.

Any others I should check?
 
The TSB concerning oscillating at idle is nothing more then the Goldn'Tour fix, IIRC.

And yes, you interpreted the fix correctly, the fix is for LOW rpm lighting which flickers/goes away at HIGH rpm (the opposite of a typical bad alternator)
 
I would venture to guess that you are using a digital meter and it isn't quick enough to respond to the almost instantaneous drop in charge. The charge is "back" before the meter can read it was gone, is my guess. I'd look in to possible floating brushes, still.

If you replace the alternator (or pull it to replace the brushes, your call) the how-to is under the Duratec Maintenance forum, in the "read-first" thread.
 
Ray said:
I would venture to guess that you are using a digital meter and it isn't quick enough to respond to the almost instantaneous drop in charge. The charge is "back" before the meter can read it was gone, is my guess. I'd look in to possible floating brushes, still.

If you replace the alternator (or pull it to replace the brushes, your call) the how-to is under the Duratec Maintenance forum, in the "read-first" thread.
Click to expand...

I was trying to avoid replacing the alternator, but I believe you're correct. I never accounted for the delay in a Digital Meter. Would you advise the "Wiring Fix" to correct the problem at idle, or could that also be tied into the alternator even though it's only exhibited the light at the high RPMs?

Maybe I'll just do the whole shebang this weekend, want to do the wheel hubs, great time to get to the Alternator too.
 
a floating brush problem, though EVIDENT at high rpm, can still be happening at low rpm. Your brushes just aren't going fast enough to completely break connection and cause a drop in charge. Oscillation can still occur.

I'd replace the alternator with a FORD/MOTORCRAFT brand alternator. (yes.. I know.. $20-$30 more expensive) and not a parts store brand. there have been countless parts store brands last 1 day.. 2 or 3 alternators in a row. I can count on both hands and both feet how many people I've seen demand a "in the box" parts-store alternator be tested and FAIL right out of the box.


Once you replace the alternator, see how it goes.. I'm not a fan of performing the wiring fix, if I don't have to. Don't get me wrong.. I am not saying I see anything WRONG with it.. its basically the same thing as the Ford TSB.. I would just rather not affect the lighting circuit when doing that in case of later problems. Just my personal preference, is all.
 
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