my98SVTturbo
Hard-core CEG'er
I didnt find much while searching but what do you need for a sub in the trunk? do you need a copacitor or what?
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rear sub question
- Thread starter my98SVTturbo
- Start date
amp wiring kit .... sub, enclosure ...
getsum111
Yes I am a Pirate, 200 years too late.
Check out www.crutchfield.com . They have some pretty good tutorials on what all is necessary, even if their prices aren't the best.
Random Hero
CEG'er
how do i tap the power into the battery if im installin somethin that needs it.
ring terminal for the appropriate guage wire you are using.
or you could go all out and replace the cable end with ones that allow you to directly attach more power leads ...
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
My whole setup is for sale in the classifieds...
onder:
But, seriously, all you need is power wire to the amp (don't need a ring clip necessarily, but it's recommended), wires from amp to subs, ground wire from amp to frame, and a remote wire from harness to amp. Then subs and amp.
onder:But, seriously, all you need is power wire to the amp (don't need a ring clip necessarily, but it's recommended), wires from amp to subs, ground wire from amp to frame, and a remote wire from harness to amp. Then subs and amp
.96Mystique
CEG'er
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Messages
- 192
My whole setup is for sale in the classifieds...
But, seriously, all you need is power wire to the amp (don't need a ring clip necessarily, but it's recommended), wires from amp to subs, ground wire from amp to frame, and a remote wire from harness to amp. Then subs and amp
You forgot the RCA's. :crazy: Since our cars are unibody, I opted to run an additional ground wire from the battery terminal to the amp. Yes, I still kept the smaller ground to the body, but it's a little better grounding for the amp.
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
DANGIT. Yeah, you need RCA's as well. There is a pre-out on the back of the deck, and they run from that to your amp. These need to be run AS FAR AWAY FROM THE POWER AND GROUNDS AS POSSIBLE. MAKE SURE THEY DON'T CROSS PATHS. And make sure the RCA's are protected so they don't by accident ground. This will cause severe adverse effects...
Only if you're doing a 4-channel.... subs it doesn't matter, you can run them all down the same side if you're doing subs, if you add a 4 channel later you can run it on the other side...
Redlineracer12
Addicted CEG'er
I'd run them down different sides anyhow. When I did my first system I'd get a nice thud when the power wire charged up and the amp turned on.
Liquid_force
CEG'er
the power wire doesn't charge up, the capacitors in the amp do, that's what causes some amps to thump when they turn on.
Most high quality amps delay turning on output end of the amp until after the caps energize to avoid that.
Power wire doesn't induce audible noise in rca's either. If it did so would the chassis of the car. It's an old installer myth that just won't die.
They do if your grounds are at different potentials... hence why they recommend running signal RCA"s 18" away from high current wires...
Liquid_force
CEG'er
that's ground loop noise, not EMI.
Sounds like more poorly founded installer mythology.
A person can be a great installer and still not understand, at least very well, what's happening electrically. They tend to just do what works, or what some other installer told them to do and explain it with whatever they can come up with.
If we had high current AC flowing through the pwr wire it would be a problem, and we'd have to treat it like the plague when it comes to placing signal wires. Thankfully, it's high current DC which makes it a non issue.
Liquid_force
CEG'er
Flowing? Not that I'm aware of. Unless the alt current's not being rectified, but if that were the case I'm pretty sure there would be much bigger problems than noise in the stereo system.
Maybe some small component of AC between the alt and batt, but the majority of that should be filtered by the batt.
Ignition is pulse DC.
hvac blower motor has been a bad source of ac noise for me in the past.
Otherwise I don't know.
Maybe some small component of AC between the alt and batt, but the majority of that should be filtered by the batt.
Ignition is pulse DC.
hvac blower motor has been a bad source of ac noise for me in the past.
Otherwise I don't know.
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Liquid_force
CEG'er
Logically - I disagree. Where does this ac voltage come from? The alt produces DC, the batt obviously produces DC. I mentioned the likelyhood of a slight ac component between the alt output and battery, but the battery will filter that almost entirely.
Mag fields in general aren't noise inducers.
High current mag fields that vary drastically in voltage at an audible frequency are noise inducers.
Avoid the alternator and the blower motor when routing signal wires.
What else do you suggest?
AC voltage is produced by the Alt then is rectified into DC. The carrier wave is Dc but there is a AC present when the Alternaor is charging
Read up a bit
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator
Really? interesting I guess I should be out of a job. Magnetic fields do create noise and Massive amounts of noise
I suggest you to figure out what your talking about before posting on here. Becuase you are off base.
Liquid_force
CEG'er
there's maybe a volt fluctuation, tops, peak to peak, usually much lower. If there IS more than a volt, chances are the alt is defective.
read up a bit:
http://www.avionicswest.com/myviewpoint/alternators.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
Static DC magnetic fields producing AUDIBLE noise - no. What's to hear?
Take a big ass subwoofer - stick the magnet on your signal wires - will you get noise?
Relatively high current AC mag fields, sure. They're rare in the car and easy to avoid.
funny you should say that