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Pro-Flo MAF::::

TRicker

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jun 25, 2006
Messages
3,931
Location
Center City, MN
i received a Pro flo maf with my SHO. it's a 75mm and i want to use it on the contour. it's calibrated for a 98 SHO so it wont work on either car right now. do i need to send it in to recalibrate it or could i put it on before i get the car tuned and have it tuned for the car that way? any help would be great. thanks :)
 
Forgetaboutit.

You don't need a bigger MAF. The stock MAF will flow much more air than even a built 3.0 will ever need. Spend you efforts elsewhere.

i have a pro flow calibrator... pm me offer if you want it!
 
i have a pro flow calibrator... pm me offer if you want it!


Either way, it would still be $xx.xx spent on something to enable him to use something that can be problem ridden anyway.

The Stock MAF will outflow ANY numbers he has/will have, really, so that same xx.xx can be spent anywhere else...
 
See everyone says this but i love my pro-m. As stated prior by demonsvt. It comes down to the tuning provided with the pro-m. If the mass air meter is programed correctly gains will be made but not by much. Now most of the time the company produced mafs that were not very helpful on our 2.5liter setups.75% of the time it was a miss.

On the other hand i have had no problems with my pro-m and did in fact make gains with mine with more mpg.

It all boils down to will it be a hit or a miss with the tuning of the air meter.

It will cost 150 to get it retuned btw.
 
  • If the mass air meter is programed correctly gains will be made but not by much.
  • Now most of the time the company produced mafs that were not very helpful on our 2.5liter setups.75% of the time it was a miss.
  • It all boils down to will it be a hit or a miss with the tuning of the air meter.
  • It will cost 150 to get it retuned btw.


How much is a wideband sensor/gauge package?
an EGT sensor?
an IAT (single? dual stage?) setup?
hose kits?
Oil pressure?
Oil Temp?
Boost pressure gauges?


With that helpful list of wonderful things about a Pro-M, I can EASILY think of a few things that I will be needing $150.00 on, soon, if I were building a Turbo project.
 
if it is going to cost me 150 to do, i'll forget about it. i just thought maybe because it was free i could find a small gain for nothing. ah well. looks cool on the shelf.

and i'm going the supercharger route. when i had my SAFC on my 3L it showed that at WOT i was using 27% of the availible MAF voltage/usability or whatever it really means. when i had the 2.5L it was using about 17% at WOT.

so i'm guessing you guys are right, a MAF isnt a weak point on this car. what size is it anyways, like 70mm stock?
 
if it is going to cost me 150 to do, i'll forget about it. i just thought maybe because it was free i could find a small gain for nothing. ah well. looks cool on the shelf.

and i'm going the supercharger route. when i had my SAFC on my 3L it showed that at WOT i was using 27% of the availible MAF voltage/usability or whatever it really means. when i had the 2.5L it was using about 17% at WOT.

so i'm guessing you guys are right, a MAF isnt a weak point on this car. what size is it anyways, like 70mm stock?

Well see our stock maf is listed as a 70mm. But if you look inside there is a bar in the center. That actually reduces the amount of air that a 70mm can actually flow. A 70mm pro-m and a 70mm stock contour mass air meter do not have the same cfms. Because of that very restriction. Now remove that bar and you actually have a real 70mm maf.

That being said they offered a 73mm or 72mm at one time. It was on cta motorsports website with an actually dyno testing back in i believe 2002-2003.

Overall ray is right. Spend money else where. I got mine tuned for 80 dollars. thanks to a friend that worked at the company.

If i had more time and money i would love to do a back to back dyno of having my pro-m vs a stock maf. Just to show that some actually provide gains. Other than a dyno test i have my butt dyno telling me i gained a few ponies in the upper rpms. especially after 5k.
 
I stayed rich at 12psi on my 3L with the stock MAF. I think it started to out flow it around 13 - 14 psi as it would start to slightly lean out near redline when the MAF voltage was maxed out and not metering all the air blowing by. Don't waste your time or money on that pretty looking MAF. :)
 
I stayed rich at 12psi on my 3L with the stock MAF. I think it started to out flow it around 13 - 14 psi as it would start to slightly lean out near redline when the MAF voltage was maxed out and not metering all the air blowing by. Don't waste your time or money on that pretty looking MAF. :)

Um i would be running a lightening maf over a stock maf if i had a 3l with a turbo.
 
Um i would be running a lightening maf over a stock maf if i had a 3l with a turbo.


I didn't need to. I actually bought one but I had no use for it because the stock MAF wasn't maxed out yet. The tuning was harder to get dialed in than the stock MAF that came on my car because the calibration from the lightning mafs aren't always was spot on. They do vary from MAF to MAF even between OEM mafs.
 
Well see our stock maf is listed as a 70mm. But if you look inside there is a bar in the center. That actually reduces the amount of air that a 70mm can actually flow. A 70mm pro-m and a 70mm stock contour mass air meter do not have the same cfms. Because of that very restriction. Now remove that bar and you actually have a real 70mm maf.

Considering the stock svt throttle body is 60 mm and a mustang throttle body is 65 mm, I dont think you have to be worried about an obstruction in a stock 70 mm MAF. A MAF definitely isnt the bottle neck in the intake system.
 
yeah. well i am offered the controller for 50$ shipped. i might do it just to have something to play around with, but i'm really not worried about it. i want the eaton buttoned up to the LIM so i can actually NEED a bigger MAF because like you guys are saying, the 70mm is just fine right now.
 
Considering the stock svt throttle body is 60 mm and a mustang throttle body is 65 mm, I dont think you have to be worried about an obstruction in a stock 70 mm MAF. A MAF definitely isnt the bottle neck in the intake system.

I 100% agree.

Has pole offered any information after he recently upgraded his throttlebody to 65mm on an 2.5L?
 
I 100% agree.

Has pole offered any information after he recently upgraded his throttlebody to 65mm on an 2.5L?

i would like to know this as well. when i had my uim/lim off i noticed the SVT UIM opening is bigger than the SVT TB. i want to say its about 65mm. (guessing)

EDIT:well after searching around its not worth it at all for me.
 
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Just to add..

I did a set of pre/post back to back dynos with A) Stock SVT airbox/filter/MAF meter then B) large K&N in custom airbox/PRO-M 75mm MAF. Gain was +12 HP. I think this was accurate as I later did an exhaust upgrade (Bassani + MSDS Y pipe) that I did not feel as much on the butt dyno as the intake. Given that most dynos show about 4-5 HP for a high flow filter, I estimated that the MAF was worth several, perhaps 5-7 HP mostly in the last 1000 RPM. While the stock MAF meter's 70mm size is fine, that 1 cm central "windblock" (used to reduce intake noise - and it does) seems very suboptimal to me. We spend time optimizing the little screws on the throttle body that are far less of an obstruction. I think the CSVT with its E honed ports & manifolds flow very well and are sensitive to these small changes in the intake tract.

Dan
 
cool, thanks for that input. i might put it in because they are hard to sell and i can get an optmizer for 50$ shipped. still thinking about it, but ive got teh MAF, why not? it cant make it any worse if it's bigger, right? ;)
 
MAF comparison

MAF comparison

Again, going by driving experience alone, the larger MAF seems to allow for more air to enter the engine. I've used both the 70mm stock MAF and the 90mm Lightning MAF on my setup.

The stock MAF is sufficient even for a turbocharged 3L motor. But I seem to flow more air through the SVT MAF in the upper RPMs - where the turbo is working - and flow less air than stock at lower RPMs - where the turbo isn't working.

I admit that this could all be psychological. I might switch back just to prove the point, since Tom won't be fine tuning my setup just yet.
 
cool, thanks for that input. i might put it in because they are hard to sell and i can get an optmizer for 50$ shipped. still thinking about it, but ive got teh MAF, why not? it cant make it any worse if it's bigger, right? ;)


Gains with the stock MAF can be seen with a performance minded tune. The MAF transfer function in the tune can be dialed in and more power can be unleashed.

Adding a larger MAF and no tuning will allow more air into the engine than the PCM is 'seeing', so an all around lean conition would be going on. Even blindly dialing it in with the optimizer would be putting your engine at risk IMO. If you do go this route, pay for a few dyno runs w/ WB o2 to tune it.
 
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