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Purchased wiring harnesses

Thanks,

I though that was what I was supposed to do, but I dont have any solderless connectors right now. I'll pop in the auto parts store tomorrow.
 
Help.

Help.

ok. Well I finished the wiring harness job but I obviously screwed something up. When I put the key in with the door open, I hear a relay clicking and none of the internal lights are on. Plus it wont start. Wont even turn over.

I think I screwed up one of two things or both.

Edit: "This is not the problem and this description is incorrect, see next post"
1) When I was plugging in the connectors on the bottom of the auxilliary fuse box, I might have put some of them in the wrong place. I dont have any pictures of the inside of this box to know where the connectors are supposed to plug in. Of the five connectors, four can be plugged in the "wrong" place. There are two interchangeable sets of two connectors, four total. Ok that was confusing, there are five connectors total, 1 unique, 2 type "A", and two type "B". I am not sure that I plugged all the type "A" and type "B" connectors back in the correct places. For further clarification, This is underneath the rear part of the aux fuse box, the one without the 60 and 80 amp fuses, without the relay spacers.
2) When I swapped out the "T" bar power supply that connects to the 60 and 80 amp fuses. I am not sure that I put the wires back correctly. I know the "T" is in the right place, but the other 6 power supply wires, I am not sure about. For some reason, I dont think this would cause the problems I am seeing. I mean, this is just power supply, so maybe power is running through the wrong fuse, but it should still be getting there.

In short, I need some help. If anyone can make me a map, of where the white connectors go, or where the black connectors go that would be awesome! Or a picture would be great too.
 
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Still need help

Still need help

Yo!

Well, strike option #1 above. The connectors are keyed. I didn't notice that they were different before, but they are all unique so they will not fit in an incorrect hole. Good one Ford, I didn't give you enough credit.

So now I am pretty stumped, but I have a few more details on the potential problem "T" connector and the wire coming out of the big fuses.

The fuses are 80, 60, 60 amps respectively
80 is main engine supply
60 is radiator fan supply
60 is ABS system (my car is not equipped.)

There are a total of 6 "out" wires, and the "in" wire is the big "T" connector from the battery.

One of the 6 goes to fuse number 5 (fog lamps) and I think this one was connected on the non-fused side of the connector (i.e. directly to the "T").
There is a really fat wire that I have connected to the 80 amp fuse and I believe goes to the passenger compartment fuse box.
Then there are 4 other red wires that I dont know where they should be connected... I have one on the 80 (for a total of 2 with the fat one), two on 60, and one on the final 60.

I dont have ABS so maybe that last one is wrong. It makes sense that there would be two on the engine cooling becuase there are a couple of power levels for that fan (low and high).

I seem to remember that this is the correct orientation when I took them off. I really should have been smarter about how I did that part of the recall. Note: it is not necessary to take of the wires on the drivers side of these large fuses, I did it because I am a moron.
 
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Power Distribution Diagrams

Power Distribution Diagrams

Hopefully these will aid you in fixing your problem.

DSC00846.JPG

DSC00847.JPG

DSC00860.JPG



Hopefully this will help you clear up your confussion. Let me know if I can try to be of more assistance.

Frank
My Wiring Debacle
 
What that tells me ( I think) is that the 80 amp has two red wires coming out of it and the and the 60 amp cooling fan has two red wires coming out of it.

I guess I need a tester to determine if they are going to the right place now. Hmm..

Thanks for the pictures, they are helpful, but I am still stumped.
 
Your interpretation seems pretty accurate. All I see are Red Wires going everywhere. Not much help, I know. When I have spare time and brain cells to remember, I will try and take pictures of my power distribution box for you, and post. In the Mean Time good luck with that.

Frank
 
Thanks!

I think I can spare you the trouble though. I have a totally dead battery! lol

If that is the only problem that I have I'll be stoked.
 
It Lives!!!

It Lives!!!

Wow. I really dont know how my battery died in one week being out of the car, but it did. That battery was old anyway so I bought a new one and the car is running. I was blocked in by two roomates, so I havent been able to test drive it yet. I am stoked though, it runs!!
:laugh::laugh::laugh:
 
does anyone have an exact list of the part numbers for the harnesses? I have been looking at my 95 and the fan harness is pretty bad and if it is as cheap, relativly, as everyone is saying I want to change it ...
 
That was the number I used at my local dealer. It's possible that each dealership has their own specific numbers, especially a set-up like Team Ford that has their own online store. They don't carry them all in stock. The part number I used did pop up on their site, but I tried some of the other harness numbers (particularly the V6) and they didn't register in the system. If you try the part number and it doesn't show, then you'll need to call either them or your local dealer and see if they can track one down.
 
Deweydw said:
I went to Genuine Ford Parts http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213787 and order them. The total was around $220 for all four harnesses. I called (866-941-FORD ) and talked to Shawn, let him know it's the 99mo3 or TSB. Forget what that stands for. But he should be able to help you out.
Click to expand...

how the hell did you all find such low prices on the harness kit? Genuine Ford Parts lists it for $540 for my 95 with 2.0/mtx/and abs ....
 
Yeah, that's the only price I could find for the harnesses for the kit for ABS. The other kits are much cheaper.

I never could find out what the difference is. I wondered if the non-ABS kit could be used for engine and fuel injection and just skip the harness for ABS?

Not sure if it can be done, but that's a significant price difference.
 
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