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Outer CV boot replacement - Stuck already (pix)

L

Liquid_force

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
148
Location
Lawrence, KS
Basically I'm down to the lwr ball joint to knuckle connection and I simply can't get the BJ loose to allow me to get the hub off the axle.

hubassy.jpg


In the 6th step of 10 my Haynes manual says "Retain the suspension strut piston with an Allen key".
For the life of me I can't figure out what that's trying to tell me. I went to the suspension section on removing the strut and found "Working inside the engine compartment, removethe strut cap (if equipped). Unscrew and remove he strut upper mouting nut, holding the piston rod stationary with an 8mm Allen key".

I still don't get it...

upperstrutmount.jpg


This is the 2nd cv boot replacement I've done - I had the same problem on the first - on that one I had to unbolt the lower bj from the lower A-arm. On the contour that's not an option since the bj is riveted to the A-arm.

Hopefully someone has some advice.
 
Liquid_force said:
In the 6th step of 10 my Haynes manual says "Retain the suspension strut piston with an Allen key".

I still don't get it...

To me, it means to use the allen key to prevent the piston from turning when you remove or tighten the nut on top of the strut tower.

A tip on removing the ball joint. First with a chisel or beat up screwdriver open up the slot where the ball joints nut and bolt have closed up the gap to retain the ball joint. With the car supported under the subframe with saftey stands. Get that jack out of there. Use a pry bar or clamp a 2-3 foot piece of a 2 by 4 wood clamped to the lower control arm. Pry down or sit on the wood to reverage the arm and ball joint out of the knuckle. Have a thick folded up rag ready to place over the ball joint rubber boot so when you release the tension the boot will not get pinched, putting a hole in it.


http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/d4/65/0900823d801bd465/repairInfoPages.htm
Click to expand...
 
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eepals said:
Liquid_force said:
In the 6th step of 10 my Haynes manual says "Retain the suspension strut piston with an Allen key".

I still don't get it...

To me, it means to use the allen key to prevent the piston from turning when you remove or tighten the nut on top of the strut tower.
Click to expand...

That makes sense, but I don't see how that would help me get the lwr bj free from the knuckle.

I thought maybe there was a keyway of some sort to run the Allen through to keep the shock from extending when the car's raised, leaving room to swing the a-arm out of the way. I guess not :shrug:

A tip on removing the ball joint. First with a chisel or beat up screwdriver open up the slot where the ball joints nut and bolt have closed up the gap to retain the ball joint. With the car supported under the subframe with saftey stands. Get that jack out of there. Use a pry bar or clamp a 2-3 foot piece of a 2 by 4 wood clamped to the lower control arm. Pry down or sit on the wood to reverage the arm and ball joint out of the knuckle. Have a thick folded up rag ready to place over the ball joint rubber boot so when you release the tension the boot will not get pinched, putting a hole in it.
Click to expand...

thanks for the ideas. I had tried just using a thick straight edge screw driver to pry open the clamp, but hadn't tried driving something in to open it up. As far as the prying tool - I have an 18" torque wrench I've tried to use a couple different ways, but clamping the 2x4 on is a good idea - I'll see if I can make that work.
Click to expand...
 
Liquid_force said:
As far as the prying tool - I have an 18" torque wrench I've tried to use a couple different ways,...
Click to expand...

LOL I hope you mean 18" breaker bar not torque wrench.
If you are pulling the axle out of the trans, so it's easier to replace the boot, don't forget to replace, with a new one, the axle circlip.
 
eepals said:
LOL I hope you mean 18" breaker bar not torque wrench.
If you are pulling the axle out of the trans, so it's easier to replace the boot, don't forget to replace, with a new one, the axle circlip.
Click to expand...

No, I meant torque wrench -- they don't give lifetime warranties for nothing :laugh:
 
Liquid_force said:
...clamping the 2x4 on is a good idea - I'll see if I can make that work.
Click to expand...

After struggling with this for over an hour last night I went out this morning, took a chisel to spread the clamp a bit more, used my jack handle and a clamp and had the bj free in 5 minutes. Thanks for the tip.

eepals said:
If you are pulling the axle out of the trans, so it's easier to replace the boot, don't forget to replace, with a new one, the axle circlip.
Click to expand...
Ford said unless it's bent or chewed up and can't be reused, don't bother. They don't even sell the part anymore. It was disc. in 2003.
 
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well, not surprisingly - It seems it's going to be a struggle getting the axle free of the atx. Haynes says use a lever to pry against the atx hsg with a thin piece of wood to protect the atx. There's like a 1/2" of space to get a lever in there, let alone a piece of wood for protection. It also mentions hitting the lever to break it loose.
Nothing's working.
 
Look at the third picture of the Autozone link I posted earlier. That is the tool you need. Others have used prybars but you risk dammaging the trans cases. Good Luck.
 
eepals said:
Look at the third picture of the Autozone link I posted earlier. That is the tool you need. Others have used prybars but you risk dammaging the trans cases. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

PROGRESS!!
Finally got the axle removed, disassembled, lubed, reassembled.
Now how am I supposed to get it seated back into the trans?
 
Well, thanks to the help of a local CEG'er -- 99redCSVT, the axle's back in, the ball joint is seated - basically I just have pads, rotors, and an end link left to bolt on - oh, and the trans to refill.
 
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