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Where is the clutch control relay????

C

ck42

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 4, 2005
Messages
99
I've got the service manual and can see the diagrams showing it in a circuit...I can find the page with its description and so forth....

BUT, nowhere does it indicate where this relay is!

Anyone know?

Trying to diagnose a problem where the compressor clutch is not kicking on. When it DOES come on, air is nice and cold.
 
ck42 said:
...BUT, nowhere does it indicate where this relay is!

Anyone know?

Trying to diagnose a problem where the compressor clutch is not kicking on. When it DOES come on, air is nice and cold.
Click to expand...
R4 in Power Distribution Box next to the battery.

In this link, on the right picture, it is the yellow looking one (dead center) next to and right of the circled one.
http://www.contour.org/php/displaypics.php?dir=/FAQ/img/drl

Download the 1996 (it is close enough for the 1995) Owners' Manual (free). It has the Fuse diagram in it.
www.fleet.ford.com
 
Last edited:
Section 12-00-23 of the Factory service manual has the diagram for this fuse/relay box:

Indicates that the relay you are saying is the clutch relay is #23 in the diagram and that #23 is "Not Used". #25, just in front of it (closer to front bumper) is the DRL relay.

This is why I was confused. The weird thing is, is that the #23 position, which isn't supposed to be used, HAS the yellow relay plugged in. This is apparently a big typo in the service manual!!

Thanks, both of you for clarifying this!!

I'll get to the gap on the clutch. I just wanted to make sure that an actual signal was being sent to the clutch FIRST. This would elmininate several other things that could potentially cause the A/C to be shut down (sensors and such).

Chris
 
Measured the gap. Is about .060" !
Pulled the clutch off. The washer inside is itself only about .020"....so even if I completed left off the washer (which I'm not sure if that's even a viable choice) I'm still left with about .040"...which is still out of tolerance.

So....to fix this, what part do I need to replace? The clutch hub? Can I do that? Or, is this one of those things where you REALLY should replace the whole clutch assembly?

Chris
 
I'd pull the shim just to see what happens.

Still haven't posted anything that would indicate whether the actual problem is electrical or mechanical. Kind of still in the dark as to what, extactly, is wrong.

Steve
 
I know, Steve. I just sort of jumped the gun yesterday and stuck my head in there and said, Hey. That gap looks pretty wide! ....and then proceeded to measure it. I was so sure that this HAD to be the problem because of the large gap.....and I'm fairly certain that it IS the problem now.

The dealer replaced the compressor about 1.5yrs ago. I'm guessing that they reused the clutch from the original compressor??? Otherwise, how would a new clutch have gotten so worn this quickly? If it's the original clutch, then it's almost 13yrs old now (man...has it been that long already!??)
Does 12-13yrs sound normal for a compressor clutch to last?

Still not sure about just leaving the washer off altogether. Not sure if the washer is 100% there for adjusting the gap or if it actually plays some sort of other important role.

Can I just replace this clutch hub piece by itself?
 
Go ahead and try it

Go ahead and try it

Check www.rockauto.com, I seem to remember the clutch/pulley is available. Try running without the washer. My sister's Mystique needed the washer thinner to make gap into spec, because the A/C quit as it got hotter. I heard it squeal and read a handy tip at good'ole CEG:cool: Fixed. My Lancer A/C worked but squealed in hot traffic, removed washer, gap good,Fixed. Maybe you could carefully sand down the end of the clutch tube where the washer presses against, if you need to tighten it up.
 
yea, I've checked rockauto. They do carry just the clutch hub. I'd almost rather just spend the money on the hub, not very expensive, and know that I won't have to deal with this again.
I just need to know if I can put the new hub onto my existing 'rest-of-clutch' system....or if it all needs to be a matched set.
 
The old parts are worn to "fit", probably best to reuse, or put new set of pulley and clutch. Need angled snap ring pliers. Here is a clutch replacement procedure (product shown is a special Unidamp product but gives you the information)The new hub is flat and the old pulley face is not, it would have to wear in, may slip.
 
Just noticed something odd in that Saab A/C clutch tutorial. In one of the pix where it shows the clutch hub and the washer, the washer appears to be mounted differently than mine.

In the Saab pix here:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1884&stc=1&d=1192923312[\img]
You can see that the washer is large enough that it does NOT fit down into that opening in the middle of the hub.

On mine, I found a washer that was a much smaller diameter.......and was located inside that hole (with the splines) where the bolt goes to hold the hub to the compressor.

Is this simply a different way of using the washer or am I referencing the completely wrong washer on my car?

Chris
 

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On the Saab one, the washer doesn't even go in the hole though...whereas on mine, the washer is actually down inside the hole.
 
That is normal. Shim washers go inside the clutch shaft tube (see the Unidamp Clutch that I linked to), has cross section view. It is an Acrobat Reader document, may take a bit to download if you have dialup or a slow DSL like mine..
 
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