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Alternator heads up

T

TourDeForce

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Messages
2,149
Location
West Palm Beach, FL
I just installed a re-man alternator last weekend. Picked the alt up from a local AP store for $145 plus.

No more bouncing speedo and the unit ran GREAT..... for TWO DAYS!!

:mad: One morning on my way in to work, the BATT light comes on at about 3k rpm. I immediately suspect the brushes, but it turns out the voltage regulator is toast. I noticed the interior blower/fan would rev up when the batt light came on. This was confirmed at the AP store when they tested it in-car - to the point where it blew one of my headlights and the fuse for same.

Getting a NEW replacement alternator from that store for cost and will let you know how it works out...
 
its really bes tto spend the extra money and get a reman from Ford, they don't sell any new ones anymore. That or go to a junk yard, I had great luck with the one I got from a junk yard.

also from what I have read here part store remans have a 100% failure rate ...
 
there is another option, I8rice was telling me the alternator from some other ford, maybe a non-duratec V6 or something like that has the same alternator, so find a low milage one at the junkyard and your good to go ...
 
BrApple said:
there is another option, I8rice was telling me the alternator from some other ford, maybe a non-duratec V6 or something like that has the same alternator, so find a low milage one at the junkyard and your good to go ...
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Need to get the exact model and post it, man! That would take a lot of guesswork out. :laugh:
 
Tony2005 said:
Need to get the exact model and post it, man! That would take a lot of guesswork out. :laugh:
Click to expand...

Or order a brand new one from Ford if its one they still offer (being a newer car you say) and you knew it'd work. You'd think they'd use the same part numbers since they should know whether or not they're using a previous model's alternator :help: :)
 
Redlineracer12 said:
Or order a brand new one from Ford if its one they still offer (being a newer car you say) and you knew it'd work. You'd think they'd use the same part numbers since they should know whether or not they're using a previous model's alternator :help: :)
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There may be some differences in the spec for max rpm, total amps available, larger pulley would mean lower voltage/amps at idle & through rev range, so we'd definately need to know what Ford that alt came from. I'd be interested to know what differences there are & how it could be applied to our platform.
 
BrApple said:
also from what I have read here part store remans have a 100% failure rate ...
Click to expand...

<curses self for jinxing himself>

My Duralast one from Autozone has about 40K miles on it so far, running two amps as well. Damn it Brian, if mine dies because I said this, I'm making you come and help me change it.:laugh:
 
getsum111 said:
<curses self for jinxing himself>

My Duralast one from Autozone has about 40K miles on it so far, running two amps as well. Damn it Brian, if mine dies because I said this, I'm making you come and help me change it.:laugh:
Click to expand...


yeah but with headers it so much easier to change :laugh:
 
Tony2005 said:
Need to get the exact model and post it, man! That would take a lot of guesswork out. :laugh:
Click to expand...

here ya go

I8RICE said:
i would check numbers at the dealer on this but a regular 3.0 liter tarus alternator look exactly like the one that is in our cars mounting tabs and electric connections. so check some part numbers and see if it so. if it is there are then tons of readily available alternators at the scrap yeard easy for the picking since when placed in the tarus they sit right on top of the motor two seconds and you should have it out
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Thanks. I will check the voltage/amps output later this evening and edit this post with the info.

Edit. The only perceptible difference is the Generator Ratio (genr. crank/rev.).

Contour 2.24:1 Taurus Vulcan 2.74:1

Other than that, it gives the same amp output of 130 A.
 
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BigJim, from the description of the alt at the top of the engine bay, the Vulcan engine has our alt....

Hopefully they are identical & you can get the Taurus alt new for $60.... :rolleyes:
 
Honestly the best solution is for someone to manufacter a bracket that would place our alternator on the top of the motor. I remember seeing it was done on some turbo kit, might have the TKT or "Knight" kit. A new bracket moved the Alternator to the top of the motor in the front!

If it uses the OEM belt that bracket would be a blessing to anyone replacing the alternator!
 
KNOCK ON WOOD - I have had flawless performance from my most recent Duralast Gold (non-reman) from AutoZone. It has been several years since I've had to replace one, and if anything goes wrong, I get a free replacement - thank you Lifetime Warranty.
 
Installed a dealer re-man alt and the car has been running fine for a week. I called the store where I got the other and will be getting a full refund plus a refund of my $40 core there. Unfortunately, the dealer core charge is $75 so the alt is costing me an additional $35 bucks since I have no core to return to the dealer. :mad:
 
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