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Is this a 2.0L or a 2.5L

J

joker2377

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 17, 2007
Messages
30
Hey guys, as some of you know, back in march/april I had to get a new motor for my 98 Tour SVT. My question is: It is not acting like it used to, Slow on the Accel and horrid Gas Milage. I have the part number and Serial number for my block and been looking all over the net to find out if they gave me the infamous "HAHA! this guy won't know a 2liter from a 2.5" Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Serial Number : R07252441
Part Number : F8RZ6V006DCARH



Thanks again
 
I don't have access to check your numbers, but a 2.0 is a four cylinder engine and would be very obviously different.

Even if the correct engine is installed, there could be issues with the installation or with how the engine was assembled that could explain your poor performance.
 
there is no way in hell they put a 2.0L in there

But they could have installed a non-svt motor, which is about a 30 horsepower difference, so thats noticeable. If your performance is bad... and you have terrible fuel economy, I would say one of your o2 sensors is acting up, is your check engine light on?
 
Im sorry, Nubness set in. the 2.0L was just an example.....

I have been through Hell and Back, then round about one more time with Ford Motor company to FIX the issues with my car. According to them the problems are not under my new 85k/3yr Warrenty. So out of pocket once again I would have to remedy this myself. Which I cannot afford, as they charged me $6200 for the new motor. If this helps I also grabbed the Casting Number off the back side of the motor by the rear Exhaust manifold.

F53E-6015-NB

No CEL codes. Even plugged it in to make sure there was nothing in memory. List of SINCE repair I have done.

New Exaust Manifolds and sensors (Eastern Catalyst High Flow)
New Coil Pack/Wirea/Plugs about 1200miles ago.
Fuel Pump/Filter
EGR Tube
 
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its a long story, Was on a road trip to Miami for a car show. Engine siezed around Fort Meyers, towed it to Sam Galloway......rest is a long long story.

Could not just leave my baby there.
 
Also, for my knowladge.....lets say they did put the NON-Svt motor in my car. is it only a 30HP difference? I mean is my poor Tour now a SE with Air Intake, Throttle body, Exhaust, Strut bars, Body Kit?

The car is still peppy, but I have been writing that up to it being a Manual and not a lousy automatic. I used to squeal in 2nd gear now I chirp. I am at Witts end and if I am going to sell this car, I would like to know what the Motor actually is....ya know? I can't keep up with my Stock WRX anymore. which saddens me.
 
joker2377 said:
Also, for my knowladge.....lets say they did put the NON-Svt motor in my car. is it only a 30HP difference? I mean is my poor Tour now a SE with Air Intake, Throttle body, Exhaust, Strut bars, Body Kit?
Click to expand...

Assuming they used a non-svt short block and used all of the svt goodies, the only difference youre looking at is the 9.7:1 pistons. Probably just a few hp.
 
joker2377 said:
Also, for my knowladge.....lets say they did put the NON-Svt motor in my car. is it only a 30HP difference? I mean is my poor Tour now a SE with Air Intake, Throttle body, Exhaust, Strut bars, Body Kit?

The car is still peppy, but I have been writing that up to it being a Manual and not a lousy automatic. I used to squeal in 2nd gear now I chirp. I am at Witts end and if I am going to sell this car, I would like to know what the Motor actually is....ya know? I can't keep up with my Stock WRX anymore. which saddens me.
Click to expand...

Check your valve covers, if they are silver, than its an SE motor, and if the mechanics that built it are really lazy, they probably left the SE cams in there, which are the bulk of where the extra horsepower of the SVT comes from.

Further more, I suggest you avoid spinning/hopping the tires at all costs, the stock differential in the Transmission is almost literally as brittle as glass, they shatter easily, but last just fine if you arent spinning the tires and causing wheel hop.
 
AliasJerk said:
Check your valve covers, if they are silver, than its an SE motor, and if the mechanics that built it are really lazy, they probably left the SE cams in there, which are the bulk of where the extra horsepower of the SVT comes from.
Click to expand...

All pre 98 2.5Ls had the same black valve covers as the SVT, so you can rule that out. Take off the front valve cover and check the cams to see if they have the orange stripes.
 
beyondloadedSE said:
All pre 98 2.5Ls had the same black valve covers as the SVT, so you can rule that out. Take off the front valve cover and check the cams to see if they have the orange stripes.
Click to expand...


Yes I have confirmed Orange stripes, Now before I scream lawyer to this ford stealership, is there a way to look up the part number/serial/Casting# to VERIFY? Like I said before All I was able to see on the Web was how to boil down some of the stuff. like the Casting# says year/what it is/where it was made. I was hoping to find a Parts list to match up that part number. To no avail. Anyway, i know I am a newbie with some of this stuff, and REALLY appreciate your guy's input on this matter as it has been a thorn in my side since April. I just want my baby girl to run right...:cry::help:
 
Check the firing order of the sparkplugs/wires. If that is off, it will sound funny and use a lot of gas. Worth a look. From Tony 2005:

Spark plug wiring order. Note that it is 4- 6- 5 at the coil pack by the firewall side.

V6 Duratec Spark Plug Wiringorder
Firewall side
4- 6 -5 <--coil pack
3-2-1

1-2-3 <--engine
4-5-6
Radiator side

Spark Plug gap 0.054 inch

Do you have the SVT manifold on there?
 
Should have gotten a 3L for her while you're at it for that money.:shrug: I guess time constraints can rule that out though.
 
the dealership I went to talk me that the 3.0L swap would not work and would be like 8k.....
 
joker2377 said:
the dealership I went to talk me that the 3.0L swap would not work and would be like 8k.....
Click to expand...

This is why we call them "stealerships." For less that half of what you paid for your replacement engine you could have gotten a nice 3L with very low miles...
 
One other thing to check would be the secondaries. Make sure that they are opening up correctly. I know when mine stopped opening up the car was very slow and gas mileage wasn't the best.
 
zorrex said:
This is why we call them "stealerships." For less that half of what you paid for your replacement engine you could have gotten a nice 3L with very low miles...
Click to expand...

In all fairness, most dealerships won't get involved with such extensive modifications. They are not as familiar with it, don't want the liabilities, and some won't get involved with work that may have questionable impact on emissions.
 
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