Yes, it definitely worked for me. The car just sucked after 3800rpm. When it worked it was awesome, but most of the time not.
I replaced the transistor just like in the how-to with an NTE replacement I got at You-Do-It Electronics here in MA and it's worked great since.
My only tip, is that plastic torx screw holds the transistor to the metal casing of the IMRC box. I accidentally broke it when I was removing the box and since the screw is plastic, half it was still left in there. So I said oh well and just reinstalled the circuit board without thermally coupling the transistor to the metal casing. I figured that metal casing is working more as a heatsink to the engine and therefore a heatsource for the transistor and left the transistor free-floating. We'll see how well that works.
