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need help with subs

you are the biggest hater there is steeda ha. you never add to the solution you just add to the problem. if you know so much why dont you open your trap a wee bit in helpful way.

I swear you define the word.

Ill tell you what, point me wrong in one thing and ill dismiss your attitude.

Part of getting the sound you want is knowing where an instrument lies in the frequency spectrum and part of it is just plain experimentation.

Id use your home stereo, or computer media player, and play around with the settings, if you dont understand where to have your EQ at, play around with the sliders and get to know how if you turn down 1k that voices start to mellow out on the bottom of the slider and such, or at 10k you should be in the top somewhere..and stuff like that. You cant just ask "where should I have my eq at" cause thats wack.
 
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OK OK OK everybody go to your neutral corners. I think the first part was not getting a clear understanding of what the OG poster was looking for. For the most part with car audio you will have gaps in freq response, due to cabin design/speaker installation (box, doors, rear deck..etc..) so the most often request is how do I get that bump while keeping the clear sound.

The second part is the type of music that is being played and the format it was recorded (factory CD/IPod/cassette/burn CD, MP3....). From the OG CD you are getting the best reproduction of the music. With Ipod and other D/L music you are getting a source that is missing gaps in freq already and the level of bit rate also plays a major role too. Most Mp3 music is recorded at 128 bit while a OG CD is at 320 or higher. Most of us like to get the most bang for our buck so we go with the 128 (takes up less room allowing more music on the disk/mem) for the quality you should go for the 160 bit and above.

Now back to the question of settings:
each manufacture has different ideals of settings so each head unit will perform differently, so its does not make much sense to advise someone on tone settings. If the system is under powered as in this case all the tone settings in the world will not help. Tone control is the icing on the cake and is up to an individuals taste. Without the proper amount of power feeding the system it will never be right.:cool:
 
i dont know much about audio so i just brought everything to best buy and they did it. my kenwood subs came with my kenwood amp it was part of a deal all for $300
 
what way should your subs face a kid told me to make them face foward so you cant see the subs and does it help to put blankets in your trunk
 
Once again, that will depend on your taste in how you like the sound. Some people say you get more of a tight bass with the subs facing the rear of the vehicle others say na. The box I have have the subs facing each other with the ports facing toward the backseats, so your box design plays a factor too. so there is no hard right or wrong answer.

I read in your post that best buy did the install of your gear? did you sound test it before you left? you could have save yourself all of this posting if you would have sat in the car and played with all of the settings while still at the store. And if there was an issue about the bass/subs not hitting the way you like then was the time to add another amp or change to a more powerful amp. Places like BB and CC will install just what you tell them and not take into consideration of how it sounds. Then once again its a matter of taste.
 
Recoveryone said:
Once again, that will depend on your taste in how you like the sound. Some people say you get more of a tight bass with the subs facing the rear of the vehicle others say na. The box I have have the subs facing each other with the ports facing toward the backseats, so your box design plays a factor too. so there is no hard right or wrong answer.

I read in your post that best buy did the install of your gear? did you sound test it before you left? you could have save yourself all of this posting if you would have sat in the car and played with all of the settings while still at the store. And if there was an issue about the bass/subs not hitting the way you like then was the time to add another amp or change to a more powerful amp. Places like BB and CC will install just what you tell them and not take into consideration of how it sounds. Then once again its a matter of taste.
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yea it kinda suck cause i was runnin late that day for a family dinner so i only picked up my car and left right after. they left the amp and deck with the stock settings:cry: ive tryed just listen my self and it hasnt worked
 
I understand your delima, but what you need is another amp for the subs only. Then you will have enough power to push the system as a whole and be able to fine tune it to your taste.

What is the model on that kenwood amp so I can really tell you what you have?


I went to the kenwood site and found this info
77200137jy7.jpg


Illuminated, 1000W 2ch power amplifier with variable low- and high-pass filters.•MAX POWER 1000W•Variable LPF•Variable HPF

2 Ohm@14.4V250 Watts × 2 (1kHz, .8%THD)4 Ohm@14.4V170 Watts × 2 (20-20kHz, .08%THD)Bridged@14.4V500 Watts × 1 (1kHz, .8%THD)High-Pass Filter50Hz-200Hz (Variable), -12dB/octLow-Pass Filter50-200Hz (Variable), -24dB/octMaximum Output Power1000 WattsRMS Power Output170 Watts × 2 (1%THD+N) (4Ω)Signal-to-Noise Ratio92dBA (Ref: 1 Watt into 4
ohm.gif
)






If this is the amp you have then you can see from the spec you not getting 1000Watts and at best your only getting 170 watts in stereo mode at 4ohm and if you have all 4 door speakers connected you divide that down to 85 watts per speaker at 4 ohm. If your speakers are rated at 8 ohm then divide that again by 2, but if they are rated at 2 ohm you can double the amount then.

Now as you can see with 4 door speakers and 2 subs you don't have enough power to drive your system. Its a shame that a long standing company like Kenwood would mislead the public with such a claim. But as always buyer beware and read the small print and spec, you can use this same info for home stereo also.
 
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Recoveryone said:
I understand your delima, but what you need is another amp for the subs only. Then you will have enough power to push the system as a whole and be able to fine tune it to your taste.

What is the model on that kenwood amp so I can really tell you what you have?


I went to the kenwood site and found this info
77200137jy7.jpg


Illuminated, 1000W 2ch power amplifier with variable low- and high-pass filters.•MAX POWER 1000W•Variable LPF•Variable HPF

2 Ohm@14.4V250 Watts × 2 (1kHz, .8%THD)4 Ohm@14.4V170 Watts × 2 (20-20kHz, .08%THD)Bridged@14.4V500 Watts × 1 (1kHz, .8%THD)High-Pass Filter50Hz-200Hz (Variable), -12dB/octLow-Pass Filter50-200Hz (Variable), -24dB/octMaximum Output Power1000 WattsRMS Power Output170 Watts × 2 (1%THD+N) (4Ω)Signal-to-Noise Ratio92dBA (Ref: 1 Watt into 4
ohm.gif
)






If this is the amp you have then you can see from the spec you not getting 1000Watts and at best your only getting 170 watts in stereo mode at 4ohm and if you have all 4 door speakers connected you divide that down to 85 watts per speaker at 4 ohm. If your speakers are rated at 8 ohm then divide that again by 2, but if they are rated at 2 ohm you can double the amount then.

Now as you can see with 4 door speakers and 2 subs you don't have enough power to drive your system. Its a shame that a long standing company like Kenwood would mislead the public with such a claim. But as always buyer beware and read the small print and spec, you can use this same info for home stereo also.
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I fail to see how you can run interior and subs on that setup... since it does not have a separate low pass and high pass for running both subs and interior speakers.... Unless you have a passive crossover.... what you need to do is run the interiors either off of your radio, or run it them off of a different amp... you should ideally have separate amp for your subs and your interior speakers.... unless you want it to sound like ass and not be that adjustable.... unless you have a single like 4.1 or 5.1 amp that has a setup for running interior speakers and a separate sub channel, then a single amp would be fine...
 
thanks for all your help, it was the fist day of school today and i talked to a kid that knows more about audio then i do he said he will take a look at my setup and said he would sell me a 1500W amp so i will then have 2500W, the only down side is he is sellin it for 300............. thats how much my subs and amp were together:shocked:
 
CSVTkid said:
thanks for all your help, it was the fist day of school today and i talked to a kid that knows more about audio then i do he said he will take a look at my setup and said he would sell me a 1500W amp so i will then have 2500W, the only down side is he is sellin it for 300............. thats how much my subs and amp were together:shocked:
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Well before you go and invest in this new amp.. make sure it's going to be the best for your sub setup.... because for example if you have a 2ohm sub... and it only outputs best at 4ohm bridged.... then your amp is going to over heat in no time if you hook it up to 2ohm sub load... just make sure they match up right.... otherwise your going to regret your investment...
 
if you are going to buy this amp keep the one you have for the subs and hookup the new amp for the doors.
remember you don't have 1000 watts per channel or even 1000 watts total the RMS is only 170 Watts in 2 channel mode
 
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hey went to the kids house he tunned my amp and now it is alot better, but not perfect. he said they didnt wire it right at bestbuy, he said something about not the right ohms or something ha i dont know much about audio but thanks for everyones help
 
CSVTkid said:
hey went to the kids house he tunned my amp and now it is alot better, but not perfect. he said they didnt wire it right at bestbuy, he said something about not the right ohms or something ha i dont know much about audio but thanks for everyones help
Click to expand...

My guess is either it was wired down to 2ohms, or 8ohms... 2 would probably overheat your amp... 8 would not use the full potential of your system... assuming your amp puts out best @ 4ohms.... Here is a good test of weather your installer knows wtf they are doing..... Weather or not they know how to figure out resistance levels of speakers in parallel or series. Also if they have a mutlimeter, and I mean a good multimeter... and know how to use it...

What you need to do is find a good multimeter and figure out what resistance your subs are at, and make sure you amp is hooked up right to them.... Making sure your subs are working together and not against each other is another thing as well to check.

On all of my installs I always make sure that the terminals are setup correct, which makes sure that the sub will fire correctly, especially if there are more than a single sub involved. I then figure out in my head what I want to do with the sub setup, I figure out what the amp outputs best at, and then try to match the sub setup accordingly. I figure out what setup will be best for my amp, a parallel or series or a combination of the two. I NEVER wire a sub setup below the amps rated output...... That way I don't have amps that overheat 1 hour after the install and have a complaining customer wondering why there amp keeps going into protect mode...

Believe me, if you lived close to me, I'd get your system setup right, just ask NVMYSVT or MLuko...
 
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