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need help with subs

CSVTkid

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 20, 2007
Messages
131
hey i need help with the settings on my deck and amp. I have 2 kenwood 12" subs with a kenwood 1000W amp. I also have a alpine deck. On my amp what should the bass boost level be(0-18)? the LPF frequency(40-200)? and last the input sensitivity(5min-0.2max)? Also on the deck what should the settings be. Bass control-60Hz, 80, 100, or 200? bass band width- 1 narrow-4 wide? bass level~ -7 ~ +7? Treble frquency- 10.0kHz, 12.5, 15.0, 17.5? treble level~ -7~ +7? subs -15 ~ +15?


sorry for being a noob but it would be great if someone knows good settings for the best sound. if it helps i want them to pound but not blow

i have this in the Audio/Video/Electronics forums but i really want to change the settings before i go out tonight and thats like right now.....

thanks
 
i would set the bass boost level to 0, the lpf to somewhere between 80-100hz. as for the input sensitivity you will need to set you deck first i keep my deck set at 80hz narrow- wide is preference just mess with the setings after you get everything else done bass level i set -3 to -4 on the deck to keep the low level frequency's from hitting the smaller speakers that distort easier treble level is again your prefrence subs i set to -3 or -5. when you get all that done put a cd in of music similar to what you will listen to most. turn the input sensitivity down all the way on the amp then start the cd at 3/4 volume the set the input sensitivity to where you like it(just make sure you dont hear distortion). thats how i did my setup. i have a kenwood excelon deck and a 1000w excelon 2 channel amp and 3 ten inch alumapro subs.
 
1) Bass boost should be set to your preference (to how it sounds) and this should be done last

2) You want the LPF settig on the stereo to be as close to the lpf setting on the amp as possible this way there is minimal overlapping of sound as possible. Also, don't leave a gap as you may lose some sound (not really, but in theory). The lower the LPF frequency the deeper it will sound, but also quieter (thus the bass boost adjustment later). From the levels you mentioned, I would go with the 80 on the amp and try to match it on the stereo.. if you have to overlap.. (so go lower on the stereo).

3) The base, mid, and high (trebble) adjustments are more of a simplistic equalizer which should be used as such. These you adjust to your preference. Technically however they are used to compensate for higher or lower sound level for certain frequencies based on the inherent properties of the speakers and environment, but with only three levels this isn't practical.. so adjust to your preference. (make sure you can hear all parts of your music as equally as possible. even if you love bass, adjust the eq settings so you hear everything... then adjust your bass boost - again last thing)

4) When finished setting up, adjust bass boost as needed for different sounds (types of music, etc.)

5) There a three things that blow speaksers (including subs)

A) Too much power - this is based on the actual (rms usually) wattage put to the speaker. Make sure your amp rating matches you sub rating.

B) Wrong frequencies - don't put high's to your subs

c) Too much distortion.. if its loud and sounds like crap (not the music, but the quality of the projected soud) then it's not good on your speakers. Usually this is from a combination of the wrong frequencies to the speaker(s) or the volume (or amp boost) is too high so the signal is being amplified to the point where quality is lost and a lot of distortion results.

.... hope this REALLY brief response helps....

If you'ld like more info... post back.... I used to do A LOT of car audio work.

P.S. Please don't turn it into one of those systems where all anyone hears when you go by is the rattling of your trunk.. dynomat (or a knock off) is key :)
 
hey i need help with the settings on my deck and amp. I have 2 kenwood 12" subs with a kenwood 1000W amp. I also have a alpine deck. On my amp what should the bass boost level be(0-18)? the LPF frequency(40-200)? and last the input sensitivity(5min-0.2max)? Also on the deck what should the settings be. Bass control-60Hz, 80, 100, or 200? bass band width- 1 narrow-4 wide? bass level~ -7 ~ +7? Treble frquency- 10.0kHz, 12.5, 15.0, 17.5? treble level~ -7~ +7? subs -15 ~ +15?


sorry for being a noob but it would be great if someone knows good settings for the best sound. if it helps i want them to pound but not blow

i have this in the Audio/Video/Electronics forums but i really want to change the settings before i go out tonight and thats like right now.....

thanks

its basically based on the way you like to listen to your music. I tune my deck and subwoofers to work with all of my music with mild adjustments. The only adjustment I need to make at this point between certain songs is what level the sub needs to be at, I too have an alpine head unit. I like lower frequency bass, to me it sound much more clean... So here are my settings


On your amp: If you want a lot of bass, what you do is put on a song that pushes hard at the subs, then you adjust that bass level and turn it up until you start hearing distortion, I would put it at about 12-14 somewhere around there, turn it up high because you can always reduce the level at your pleasure on your head unit

LPF - I have mine set at about 60
Input Sensitivity - this is harder to determine, primarily because its based on how much signal the CD you are playing actually gives off, and every record company tunes their CD's their own ways, you are best off setting it right before the middle and forgetting it.

Deck:

Bass frequency should probably be about 80Hz, and I would suggest you leave your level at about 0 or 1. Because that Bass level actually will boost your speakers along with your sub, which means when your speakers start clipping/distorting, and your sub to banging really hard, you wont hear your speakers potentially blowing. Its better to not let the door speakers do the talking bass wise, and leave that up to the sub, that is, untill you upgrade your door speakers and if you ever decide to run them off a separate amp. Set your band width at about 2.

As for your treble, this is what I love about alpine headunits, the quality from them is just rediculious, you can turn that treble up so high it makes stock speakers sound like friggan component systems. But of course, high treble just distorts from the true quality of the sound. Set your treble level at about 5 or 6 and the frequency at 12.5K Hz

Bass level, basically this allows you to adjust how loud your sub is, without having to open your trunk and do it from the amp manually. While some people wont agree with screwing with the Sub level on your headunit, I dont see any problem with it. I set my sub level at about 10 and forget it. That way its not too loud on rock/classic rock music, and on things like techno/rap/drum and bass music, it will hit nice and hard.

Hope that helps, those are the settings I like to use on my system, and I get a lot of complements... that is until my tool box rammed into my sub :mad: Oh well, I have a 12 inch JL coming my way :D


thats what I spoke of when I was talking about clipping. You would be surprised how many people install subs, poorly configure them and think that while clipping it sounds amazing. That is now how my sub sounded because that sounds like horse poop.

OH! and BTW, DO NOT turn on the "Loudness" feature while running a subwoofer, that has great potential to cause clipping, which sounds like balls. Only use Loudness if just running door speakers.

k thx ^.^
 
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thanks alot everyone, ill tweak my deck and amp and get back to you how it sounds. how much are dynomats, and dont they add alot of weight to the car
 
ha yea i changed my settings and it doesnt sound much better. i have 2 12" kenwoods, are they just cheap and dont pound or is it my fault on the set up? im going to call up my bros friend tonight and see if he can help me, he has a nice jetta with some bomb subs................ i still take him at the stop lights:laugh:
 
ha yea i changed my settings and it doesnt sound much better. i have 2 12" kenwoods, are they just cheap and dont pound or is it my fault on the set up? im going to call up my bros friend tonight and see if he can help me, he has a nice jetta with some bomb subs................ i still take him at the stop lights:laugh:

you probably have them wired wrong, or you have an amp that doesn't match up good enough with your subs...
 
One point that was missed is how are the subs mounted (boxed or fabricated). Either will have an effect on how the subs sound.

I would first go back and check the true rating of the Deck/amp and subs on a 8 ohm scale and really see how much power you have and how much you need to get the desired results. If I remember from your earlier post you only mention one amp? how many speakers are connected to that amp? which mean the load will break down even further to cover each speaker.

For ur 1000 watt amp it usually break down in this order.

1000 watts peak at 2 ohm mono (1 speaker)

500 watts peak at 4 ohm mono (1 speaker)

250 watts peak at 6/8 ohm mono (1 speaker)

so if your subs are rated at a higher ohm 4/6/8 then you can see why your not getting the results you want.

the ideal setup would have you running the doors speakers on one amp then bridge throughput to your sub amp. Then make the adjustments listed in the other post.

I have a Panasonic Deck @ 45 watts (breaks down to 10.2 per channel) 500 4 channel watt alpine for my doors (Pioneer 5x7 4 way TS series)(breaks down to 125 watts per channel at 8 ohms) and bridge it to a 350 watt mono amp for my subs (boxed twin 12") and when I get the volume up around 22 you can start to feel the bass in the front seats. Sitting in the back results in a full body message. So know what you have at 8 ohm level and that will give you a good base to start with and let you be able to match the right gear together. If the gear does not give you the info on the power rating at different ohm level, then I would stay away from it. The cheap stuff boast of high numbers at low ohm level.
 
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One point that was missed is how are the subs mounted (boxed or fabricated). Either will have an effect on how the subs sound.

I would first go back and check the true rating of the Deck/amp and subs on a 8 ohm scale and really see how much power you have and how much you need to get the desired results. If I remember from your earlier post you only mention one amp? how many speakers are connected to that amp? which mean the load will break down even further to cover each speaker.

For ur 1000 watt amp it usually break down in this order.

1000 watts peak at 2 ohm mono (1 speaker)

500 watts peak at 4 ohm mono (1 speaker)

250 watts peak at 6/8 ohm mono (1 speaker)

so if your subs are rated at a higher ohm 4/6/8 then you can see why your not getting the results you want.

the ideal setup would have you running the doors speakers on one amp then bridge throughput to your sub amp. Then make the adjustments listed in the other post.

I have a Panasonic Deck @ 45 watts (breaks down to 10.2 per channel) 500 4 channel watt alpine for my doors (Pioneer 5x7 4 way TS series)(breaks down to 125 watts per channel at 8 ohms) and bridge it to a 350 watt mono amp for my subs (boxed twin 12") and when I get the volume up around 22 you can start to feel the bass in the front seats. Sitting in the back results in a full body message. So know what you have at 8 ohm level and that will give you a good base to start with and let you be able to match the right gear together. If the gear does not give you the info on the power rating at different ohm level, then I would stay away from it. The cheap stuff boast of high numbers at low ohm level.

yea i have my front speakers connected to the amp, does that mean i need another amp
 
what it means is that amp you have is trying to push all of your speakers. use the chart I stated above and divide the watts by the number of speakers and that will let you know how much power your system is sending out. you will be surprised how little:shocked: I would go with a separate amp for the subs
 
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OH! and BTW, DO NOT turn on the "Loudness" feature while running a subwoofer, that has great potential to cause clipping, which sounds like balls. Only use Loudness if just running door speakers.

k thx ^.^


UMmm WHAT?

How about we stick to the truth here ok?
 
bass is 80% box build, 20% percent subs.

Dont matter what kind of subs you got, if youve got a crappy box, it will sound like dookiemonster.

On my amp what should the bass boost level be(0-18)? 10-14

the LPF frequency(40-200)? 80hz. and last the input sensitivity(5min-0.2max)? Id say maybe 3/4 turn.

Also on the deck what should the settings be. Bass control-60Hz, 80, 100, or 200? 80hz bass band width- 1 narrow-4 wide? bass level~ -7 ~ +7? 0 zero for now.

Treble frquency- 10.0kHz, 12.5, 15.0, 17.5? treble level~ 12.5 or 15......

-7~ +7? negative -2. subs -15 ~ +15? 0 or 2 until you are satisfied with other settings.

How do you have the subs wired to amp...bridged, stereo?
 
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Taking audio advice over the internet on settings is stupid.

I would def not use any settings Aliasjerk or Fordsvt98 as stated thats for sure!
 
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