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New Struts/Srings | Rides Worse Like A Truck

zorrex said:
...Betcha he got V6 springs. I'm sure I did. Hopefully I can change those out at some point, and also get the correct strut tower bolts :nonono:. Hey OP, check to see if there is a gap between the strut tower bolt rubber boot and the strut tower (inside the engine bay). I guarantee there is a gap.
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The springs in the rear are the same whether it is a 4 or a 6 cylinder. Read the above post. I just checked and from 95 - 00 the rear springs are the same part number. The rear stuts also seem to be the same.

To the OP, it is most likely install error. Either the springs didn't seat correctly, or top bolt didn't get tightened down all the way. Take it back to the shop that worked on it and tell them that it rides worse than before you brought it there. I am sure they will gladly look at it again.
 
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JJames said:
According to Alldata.... There was an option for "Vin 3" or "Vin Z" but I checked both and the part number's for the struts/springs are the same.

1999 Ford Contour L4-122 2.0L DOHC VIN 3 SFI

Struts
Front - 3U2Z18124AB
Rear - F8RZ18125AA

Springs
Front Manual Trans - F5RZ5310G
Front Auto Trans - F5RZ5310D
Rear - F5RZ5560D

:crazy:
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Then you are saying I get the correct struts and springs?

1999 Ford Contour SE L4-122 2.0L DOHC SFI.
Front Auto Trans
Manufactured: 10/98 Front Auto Trans

Replaced 2 Front Struts

F5RZ-5K962-A GAITER

3U2Z-18124-AB SHOCK ABSORBER

Replaced 2 Rear Struts & Springs

F5RZ-5560-D SPRING
F8RZ-18125-AA SHOCK ABSORBER
 
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Unless they installed springs from a completly different car then yes. As far as what my information says. What is this F5RZ-5K962-A GAITER, mounts or something?
 
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JJames said:
Unless they installed springs from a completly different car then yes. As far as what my information says. But the front struts don't match what they should be.
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That's interesting then. Why do I still get that uneasy ride. Just doesn't make sense. These are dealer OEM struts and springs.

Do you think off market or like monroe struts and spring would have been better?
 
Myrosia said:
That's interesting then. Why do I still get that uneasy ride. Just doesn't make sense. These are dealer OEM struts and springs.
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What is this F5RZ-5K962-A GAITER, mounts or something? Team Ford says is for the rear suspension and costs $12.45. Either way it isn't a different strut/spring at that price.:shrug:

Myrosia said:
Do you think off market or like monroe struts and spring would have been better?
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From what I have read on this site, most members will agree that Monroe is barely a step above factory struts and most think the BAT kit is the best ride/drop for the money. Mine haven't shown up so I can't speak on that yet :cool:

You can spend a lot of time doing research in the suspension forum here - http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=25 for more information on the BAT kit go here - http://www.batinc.net/contour.htm
 
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After doing a little more research... Ford has replaced all rear springs (4 and 6 cyl except SVT and SE V6 m/t) with the same rear spring (F5RZ-5560-D). I'd venture to guess that the new spring is more similar to the V6 model, and this may be causing your rough ride. I have no idea what to do about it though, othe than look for a set of good used OE 4cyl. springs. The gaiter is the dust boot. All the part numbers you posted off your invoice are correct for that vehicle.
This might be a stupid question... but did you look at the struts after they replaced them the second time? Were they black this time around? I mean they could've always just changed the numbers on your invoice, and kept the old aftermarket stuff in there. I've seen shadier stuff.:rolleyes:
 
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SARON81 said:
After doing a little more research... Ford has replaced all rear springs (4 and 6 cyl except SVT and SE V6 m/t) with the same rear spring (F5RZ-5560-D). I'd venture to guess that the new spring is more similar to the V6 model, and this may be causing your rough ride. I have no idea what to do about it though, othe than look for a set of good used OE 4cyl. springs. The gaiter is the dust boot. All the part numbers you posted off your invoice are correct for that vehicle.
This might be a stupid question... but did you look at the struts after they replaced them the second time? Were they black this time around? I mean they could've always just changed the numbers on your invoice, and kept the old aftermarket stuff in there. I've seen shadier stuff.:rolleyes:
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Thanks for the response.

Yes, I checked the struts and springs. They are black and have the OEM Ford stickers still attached to them. I also asked to see all the parts and I read the correct numbers off the sticker before they installed them.

This just doesn't make sense. Could there be any other issues in the rear suspension they could cause this bouncy/hard ride? I do hear a clinking noise when going over like bump pulling out of your driveway and some other small bumps in the road. But that could be the linkage I guess.

I should add...

I have relatively new tires:

Goodyear Assurance ComforTred P205/60R15 at 32 PSI
 
this is very unlikely but my bro inlaws 90 sumthin chevy has seized struts in the back that will not compress. he said it feels like hes in a go kart. might as well check but its probably a .01% chance that struts seize in that way.
 
i dont see why they would be bouncy if their new but maybe they just need broken in for awhile. if you dont wanna wait then go to a different garage and have them test drive it. if they agree with you put your foot down and tell the dealer they need to do sumthin and if they dont sue them for ur money back. thats what i would do. get a couple garages to test drive it and see what they say.
 
This is amazing. The struts and springs are the correct OEM. Although, the rided still sucks. I mean, it's still bump bump bump just like the old struts and springs in the rear. Also, the fronts are the same as the old.

If Ford has replaced all rear springs (4 and 6 cyl except SVT and SE V6 m/t) with the same rear spring (F5RZ-5560-D), could this be the problem. Would the dealer be willing to install a different type?

I just wanted the exact OEM number that were installed in 1998 on the car. It would make sense then it would ride somewhat better and more comfort.
 
CSVT1214 said:
I agree. That plus the subframe. A cracked rear subframe can cause a lot of noise over bumps when the swaybar moves around.
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There is not really a noise. It's the darn stiff ride. Honestly, it doesn even feel like the whole stuts assembly is working on any of the tires. I just can't believe that having these OEM struts and springs road this hard when manufactured in '99. I just don't.

Previously I had "98 Contour LG, and it was much smoother and softer ride.
 
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just my .02....first time I changed the rear brakes on my contour I used a rolling floor jack at the back end of the car....what looked like a sturdy enough metal bar -leading from the wheel up to some part of the body of the car or another part of the suspension- bent :nonono: ...my car never rode the same again or handled as well

I would have a clunking sound if I went over bumps or expansion joints in the roadway....

look under the rear of the car and see if anything looks bent....

also, just generally speaking, I dont think the contour was ever designed to be a smooth riding car....it may be a good idea to let a group member in your area drive the car around and see how it feels

and crappy tires (goodyear can make bad products too) can make the ride harsh
 
gdub520 said:
just my .02....first time I changed the rear brakes on my contour I used a rolling floor jack at the back end of the car....what looked like a sturdy enough metal bar -leading from the wheel up to some part of the body of the car or another part of the suspension- bent :nonono: ...my car never rode the same again or handled as well

I would have a clunking sound if I went over bumps or expansion joints in the roadway....

look under the rear of the car and see if anything looks bent....

also, just generally speaking, I dont think the contour was ever designed to be a smooth riding car....it may be a good idea to let a group member in your area drive the car around and see how it feels

and crappy tires (goodyear can make bad products too) can make the ride harsh
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Thanks for the reply.

It's not "noise". It's the unusual hard/stiff ride. I had a '98 Contour before and have an idea how the ride is. Maybe it's the OEM springs that the dealer installed? Maybe I needed "softer" springs?

Good idea, is there a group member in the area of Shelby Twp, MI who could drive the car around and see how it feels?
 
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...apart from maybe non OEM parts, my 2 cents is..bet the shop fully tightened the suspension arms to the knuckle with the suspension hanging ...which has pre-loaded the bushings,...knuckle connections need to be loose and vehicle on the ground with weight on tires etc..THEN tightens the bolts etc....TH
 
Could the noise and harder ride be cause by faulty Rear/Front Suspension Strut Mount?

The dealer could find nothing wrong with the suspension except a front linkeage when I took it back. I was able to go in the shop for them to show me what they looked for.

Altough, I still have the noise in the rear. Especially when I back out of my drive way, there is a big drop then I hear the noise.

The manager at the dealer concluded that since I just had the struts installed last August, that the springs are stiff and they need to break in? He also said that there are no other springs I could put on them according to specs.

Even the front seem the same...like the new struts are not working.

I should add, that when I go over a bump, the stearing wheel turns/pulls in the direction of the bump.
 
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