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Sway bar mount broke, what next

blackstang5.0

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 27, 2005
Messages
95
Location
Minneapolis MN
Well, after a week of thinking my rear shocks were shot i had time today to take my wheel off the passenger rear and found the sway bar mount was sheared off. So i though " that looks simple enough to fix" but then i read on the old forums here that you have to replace the whole damn subframe. Just great, so i see that BAT make a stregthend one but does anyone else here have any suggjestions on where to proceed next on this? Just get the BAT subframe?

I live in minnesota so the subframe mount was rusted out which im thinking the stronger BAT subframe would be a wise decision.

Oh also, to add insult to injury, my lower control arms are also shot and was planning to install those next week.
 
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yeah, talked to my friend that is a good welder and he said he would help me get it fixed tomorrow. He said he would also gusset the bracket so that it wont break again.

So looks like i wont need to get the subframe replaced hopefully.
 
It all depends on the nature of the damage. I've fixed many subframes but I never do it with the sub mounted to the chassis. It's simply too difficult to do it correctly and have it last long term.

If you don't believe me take a look at another thread in this forum about the Aussie bar. He's got pix of a repair job (now failed) where the subframe was welded while it was still mounted to the chassis.

Any welder knows that welding upside down is the worst way of getting a good weld/penetration. Gravity has an effect...
 
It depends on the skill of the welder. Welding certification includes the position of the weld, as you can guess, due to the effects of gravity on the puddle of molten metal that defines the welding process.

Now access may be another matter. Find a welder that knows how to weld overhead, such as someone with oil pipeline experience.
 
Well my friend managed to get it fixed and also gusseted the brackets on both sides. So it definatly wont break now.

Well so far ive managed to find quite abit of the weak points in these contours, the diffs, the control arms, now the sway bar mounts. Plus i bought the car with a 3L so also fixed the 2.5 oil problem with that.

wonder what other stuff i have instore that i havent fixed yet.
 
You missed the front wheel bearings and although it's probably been replaced by now, OEM H2O pump impellers. Been through it all with 2 Duratec Tours, 1 bought new and over 10 years of experience.

As I said earlier, welding upside down will give the worst penetration/weld. Doesn't mean it can't be done just that you end up with a lower quality weld vs. vertical or horizontal (best). There's also a shortage of room to get the welding gun/rod in there plus the gas tank is adjacent to the sub. Not for me...
 
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Blackstang 5.0 what was it doing to make you think it was the shocks, cause mine seems like mine are going too, it feels really boatish in the rear when I swerve, or hit a bump at high speeds, it just feels really fishy in the back end.
 
kind of sounded like the strut mount on top was bad, like the strut was hitting the top of the strut tower all the time when i hit bumps. And yes the ass end of my car went all over too when it broke.
 
Well then I will check my sway bar, if its not that then when I go overseas its ALL getting replaced with aftermarket anyways.
 
Well mine wasnt broke, I got under the car this morning and my rear swaybar end links were loose as well as my trailing arms from when I put new ones on, guess they werent torque'd down enough. I tightened them to spec and its nice and tight again, no more boat feeling.:cool:
 
As I said earlier, welding upside down will give the worst penetration/weld. Doesn't mean it can't be done just that you end up with a lower quality weld vs. vertical or horizontal (best). There's also a shortage of room to get the welding gun/rod in there plus the gas tank is adjacent to the sub. Not for me...


That is a completely false statement. Anyone who has taken any form of welding tests,certifications or classes will tell you that. I can't remember how many break tests I performed in all welding positions including overhead vertical up/down. All gravity effects is the slag if your stick welding. TIG weld overhead and you'll see zero effect on penetration and weld quality. Please stop making false welding statements based on your experience or lack there of in the area.
 
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