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Hydrolocked?!?!

Adam dont get too down on yourself. Im sure ill be another one thats always broken lol.

Id say just pick up a new 3.0 and get it ready for if/when this one goes.

beauty of duratec 3-ohs... 4 hundo out the door
 
I'd just clean out as much of that peanut buttery goo as you can and run it hard, but start saving the cash for a new longblock. Maybe you'll get lucky and never need it. The longer there's water in the pan and on the bearings, the more damage is being done. Take the car out and burn it all off!

One unfortunate thing about that kind of bearing damage is that you couldn't get away with just replacing the bearing shells themselves. The journals would likely be scored and pitted from the corrosion, so you'd looking at some machine shop work to regrind them. Top end doesn't really require so much lubrication and probably is just fine. You should probably take the valve covers off just to have a look.

As far as the rods, just check your compression again. If the rods were bent, it would alter the compression ratio (and psi) in one or more cylinders. This would be the case even if the distortion in the rod wasnt visible to the naked eye.
 
mcgarvey said:
I'd just clean out as much of that peanut buttery goo as you can and run it hard, but start saving the cash for a new longblock. Maybe you'll get lucky and never need it. The longer there's water in the pan and on the bearings, the more damage is being done. Take the car out and burn it all off!

One unfortunate thing about that kind of bearing damage is that you couldn't get away with just replacing the bearing shells themselves. The journals would likely be scored and pitted from the corrosion, so you'd looking at some machine shop work to regrind them. Top end doesn't really require so much lubrication and probably is just fine. You should probably take the valve covers off just to have a look.

As far as the rods, just check your compression again. If the rods were bent, it would alter the compression ratio (and psi) in one or more cylinders. This would be the case even if the distortion in the rod wasnt visible to the naked eye.
Click to expand...

mcgarvey,

thanks for the advice.

When I stalled I was going slow and pretty low rpm. I just let it die, did not try to apply more gas to keep it running. I did not try to restart it.

Pushed it home (in a massive thunderstorm, in a suit). Let it sit for 4 days. Water that was in the cylinders seeped around the rings and into the pan.

Disassembled to remove any standing water in intake track. Turned it over with no plugs to clear any water remaining in the cylinders. (there was none) Re assembled and ran at idle for 5-7 mins to steam out any extra moisture.

One day did pass between running it with the soft server and when I changed the oil. This would be the only time the water infused oil was left in contact with bearing surfaces.

Dropped pan cleaned as much of that crud out as I could. Fresh oil.

I have driven it enough now to remove ALL moisture. H20 never sat on the bearing surfaces so hopefully no corrosion and such.

I will definately do another compression test to ascertain if it has been altered.

I wish I could just swipe my VISA across the dash and $400 later have a new motor. Its the damn time and effort that kills me.

Also, thanks Mike for engine help offer. I already owe you quite a few beers and a real ride now that (most) kinks are worked out.
 
Adam,

I'd run it as is and call it a day. If it spits the motor out later on down the road, so be it. Deal with it then. Don't go on a wild goose chase at this point over what might be wrong.

Not sure what to say on the vibration though if it wasn't there before this little incident.

Rick
 
Buckshot77 said:
Adam,

I'd run it as is and call it a day. If it spits the motor out later on down the road, so be it. Deal with it then. Don't go on a wild goose chase at this point over what might be wrong.

Not sure what to say on the vibration though if it wasn't there before this little incident.

Rick
Click to expand...

Agreed. You did you best to get the water out of everything. Put new oil in it and do a compression test. Don't post anything else here until you have done so. Otherwise, it's just speculation (drama).
 
I would tell you that since you are driving it I'd leave it and see how it goes. I'm not sure of the vibration but hey, if you do have any bent hardware it will quickly become aparent later on, if not already.

Remember that water is not compressible either and just because the water was in there does not mean there is bearing damage. Water is also considered a lubricant, albeit one with corrosive properties. So that is the only thing I'd be concerned about is water on the cylinder walls and rings causing rust. The rest of it won't be much of an issue especially once it get hot enough to burn it all out. I'd take it out on the highway and do a nice 70mph cruise for 20-30 min and see if things clear up.
Also if it's not smoking then you know your rings probably didn't suffer.

SHOgoFast said:
mcgarvey,

thanks for the advice.

When I stalled I was going slow and pretty low rpm. I just let it die, did not try to apply more gas to keep it running. I did not try to restart it.

Pushed it home (in a massive thunderstorm, in a suit). Let it sit for 4 days. Water that was in the cylinders seeped around the rings and into the pan.

Disassembled to remove any standing water in intake track. Turned it over with no plugs to clear any water remaining in the cylinders. (there was none) Re assembled and ran at idle for 5-7 mins to steam out any extra moisture.

One day did pass between running it with the soft server and when I changed the oil. This would be the only time the water infused oil was left in contact with bearing surfaces.

Dropped pan cleaned as much of that crud out as I could. Fresh oil.

I have driven it enough now to remove ALL moisture. H20 never sat on the bearing surfaces so hopefully no corrosion and such.

I will definately do another compression test to ascertain if it has been altered.

I wish I could just swipe my VISA across the dash and $400 later have a new motor. Its the damn time and effort that kills me.

Also, thanks Mike for engine help offer. I already owe you quite a few beers and a real ride now that (most) kinks are worked out.
Click to expand...
 
You might consider substituting a quart of oil with a quart of automatic trans fluid. The detergents in the fluid will help to clean it out, especialy in the adjusters. Drive for only about 30 miles than drain it all out and run new fluid. Just remember tranny fluid doesnt have the lubrication properties of oil, so don't take any high speed corners :laugh:
 
The lash adjusters. Or lifters as some people call them. They have tiny oil holes so they can get "pumped" up or full of oil. Those holes could get plugged and cause a tick among other things.
 
Alright, compression test complete

210 210 209
209 192 193

This was on a warm motor. Last time I compression tested all were at 214-215 so compression is down across the board and down quite a bit in two cylinders.

My estimation is that is do to some rust on the rings or cylinder walls during the days it set with water in there.

Would a warm motor make a difference over completely cold? I would assume due to expansion that a warm motor would yield higher results? I did drip a little oil into one of the 193 cylinder and retested with 215 as a result. So, thats where it stands.
 
That isn't bad. It's possible there were some issues but with the warm motor you have thinner oil, yet the pistons should be expanded. Kinda a tossup. Also, atmospheric pressure plays a role in peak compression.
SHOgoFast said:
Alright, compression test complete

210 210 209
209 192 193

This was on a warm motor. Last time I compression tested all were at 214-215 so compression is down across the board and down quite a bit in two cylinders.

My estimation is that is do to some rust on the rings or cylinder walls during the days it set with water in there.

Would a warm motor make a difference over completely cold? I would assume due to expansion that a warm motor would yield higher results? I did drip a little oil into one of the 193 cylinder and retested with 215 as a result. So, thats where it stands.
Click to expand...
 
This may be an odd question but I am going to ask anyway.

Would having more plugs removed when conducting the test have an effect on the results.

My assumption is no effect, but I also never would have assumed that oil thickness would have an effect either. I can see why, but figured it would be very very small.
Or, would the decreased resistance from fewer cylindars being compressed allow higher results?

For example, when I tested the two lowest cylinders I had both of those plugs out and all 4 others in.

When I tested the entire rear bank I had all 3 plugs out and 1 plug from the front bank out.

When I tested the 210 on the front bank all 5 other plugs were in.

I usually do one at a time and replace the plug before moving on. My assistant (Brooke) was less than enthused about helping me so I did it in a random way to try to make it as fast as possible.
 
Usually you would remove all plugs at once and then have the throttle blade open. Some argue it makes a difference to be open and others say it doesn't.
 
Maybe, just for the hell of it, I will run another test Saturday with all plugs removed.

Nothing to lose but my time.
 
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