• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Need new pads immediately.Can't fit Bendix Tit II's???

T

teamSVTour

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
2,584
Location
Pittsburgh
Ok so I just checked my pads and it looks like the pads on both the driver and passanger seperated from the backing. So this calls for immediate fix as this could be be a very dangerous situation.

So I picked up some Bendix Titanium II's part # MKD 648 (b/c I need the E1 pads).

Here's my problem I cannot get the new pads on to save my life. No matter how much I try to use a C-clamp to push the piston back the piston does not seem to budge and the pads just wont fit. The driverside is really bad. I mean its not even close. The brake fluid does not rise at all in the resevoir and the piston just does not budge. It seems the piston is all the way in. It's like these pads have to much "pad" on them. The Passenger side I actually saw the fluid in the resevior go up a slight bit when I pushed it in as far as I could possibly go but the pads/caliper will only go on if I rap the caliper w/ a mallet. This is not going to work b/c it is WAY to tight.

What am I doing wrong here? Do i need new caliper/piston? Do I have the wrong pads?

p.s. the thickness of the pad is a 1/2 inch (not including the backing plate) length of pad is 4 1/2 (not including the backing plate)

TIA!
 
New pads are pretty thick. The pistons should be almost flush with the body of the caliper when they are all the way in.
 
Yea I mean I cranked those pistons as far back as I could. I'm not a little guy so trust me when I say I cranked those things down as tight as I could. I'm going to make a run to Pep Boys and see if I can get a better tool for the job. It just seems it won't go back the last 1/8th of an inch to make it work.

They do seem pretty corroaded and rusted so maybe thats the reason the piston is not going back all the way. If I squeeze the rubber gromet/boot, I can hear rust particles crunching. Worst comes to worst I may have to buy new calipers/piston for both sides (around $100).

Any other ideas feel free to shoot them my way. Since my car is on blocks untill I get this figured out.

p.s. this is the right part # for the E1 pads right?
 
Yea the cap.... its totally off :)

I was using this "brake tool" and that didnt seem to cut it. I just got a 6 inch C-clamp from Shlep Boys and thats not cutting it either. I'm going to try soaking it w/ some PB Blaster and give it another try.
 
ive had to open the bleeder valve on the caliper once before. i had the same prob. if you open it while you have the clamp on the piston with force aplied open the valve keep force on the piston as you dont want air getting in there. thats what i had to do. also did you try and pump the brake pedal to depressurisze the system?.
 
well I finally got those B****** in.

What I used:

6 inch C-clamp
PB Blaster
2 pipes about 2 feet in legth.
duct tape
a hell of alot of patience

I sprayed the PB on it while I made the run to the hard ware store to get the pipes. Then I got some duct tape and basically taped an X onto the handle bar of the C-clamp as a means of getting 2 equal length handles that wont slide. This did 2 things; made the handle stronger and less prone to bend and also gave me two handle which I then put the 2 pipes on to get leverage. I then used these 2 pipes like a steering wheel to crank down the C- clamp. I used the backing plate from the broken brake pad (any flat piece of metal will do) to put across the face of the piston so I'd have more area pressing on the piston and cranked that F'er down like no other.

There was NO way that this was a one person job as I needed to have another person hold the caliper while I cranked it down.

I Hope that perhaps my frustrating experience may help someone else out if they have the same issue.

Now I need to unwind....beers to the neck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top