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99 SVT Stutter

mattp182

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 30, 2006
Messages
31
OK well today I checked gaps on plugs 1,4,5,6 also reset the ECM. All the plugs looked very good, less than 500 miles on them. And for fun I cleaned my battery terminals. Also for background the car also has a new fuel pump and filter and plug wires. It seems to stutter around 3100 to 3500 at WOT. also the stutter is apparant just crusing especially up hills. Is there some kind of a timing change that im not aware of and possibly the car is actually operating how it is supposed to? The CEL does not come on. before i removed my injectors and replaced them the shop diagonosed that cyclinder 5 fuel injector was not functioning properly. After removing and replacing the injectors, the car stutered much less. I dont know what more to check. My next idea is to send the injectors off to be cleaned but im not positive that there is anything wrong with my injectors. BTW sorry for typos i hate overwrite dont know how to trn it off and too lazy to make corrections.
 
Two things to check. 1) Is secondary butterflies opening? Have someone rev the car above 3k RPM and see if the link pulls (moves) the secondary butterflies. 2) Did you try changing out injector 1?
 
Sorry to ask a stupid question, but could you please explain where the secondary butterfly linkage is, im new to the car..... Also i didnt replace any injectors, I just removed them and put them all back. Im going to assume the throttlebody is working correctly, because it runs very well besides this stupid stutter.
 
If you have a known fuel injector 5 problem, you need to fix that first before coming back to ask for more suggestions. I thought you tried all the suggestions posted earlier in the old forum or this forum. Removing a faulty injector and putting it back in does not constitute fixing it unless you determined it was dirty and had it cleaned.

"One of the first rules of troubleshooting is that you fix what you know is wrong and the re-evaluate." Big Jim.
 
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OK well today I checked gaps on plugs 1,4,5,6 also reset the ECM. All the plugs looked very good, less than 500 miles on them. And for fun I cleaned my battery terminals. Also for background the car also has a new fuel pump and filter and plug wires. It seems to stutter around 3100 to 3500 at WOT. also the stutter is apparant just crusing especially up hills. Is there some kind of a timing change that im not aware of and possibly the car is actually operating how it is supposed to? The CEL does not come on. before i removed my injectors and replaced them the shop diagonosed that cyclinder 5 fuel injector was not functioning properly. After removing and replacing the injectors, the car stutered much less. I dont know what more to check. My next idea is to send the injectors off to be cleaned but im not positive that there is anything wrong with my injectors. BTW sorry for typos i hate overwrite dont know how to trn it off and too lazy to make corrections.



Hate to say it but it sounds like plug wires. Can be a combination of the wire type and the spark plugs you are using. Use double platinum plugs and a new set of wires.
 
OK is it still possible the fuel injector is still not functioning correctly. I dont know how the shop determined the fuel injector was not working properly, but its awfully weired that after i tinkered, the car stuttered much less. The CEL is not coming on at all. Im half tempted to tell the shop to just replace the injector but if thats not my problem i will be out $250.

I think i do have to check all the plug gaps again because i realized last night after i had checked the gaps, that i was just dropping the plugs back into place and its possible that if the plugs didnt fall right into the hole the gap could have been changed. BTW i used autolite iridium/platinum plugs and borg warner wires.
 
Ok well all gaps are good. But the miss is still there, and still no CEL. So my question is now should I pay the shop for the injector replacement. Or just do it myself?

I dont know if this makes a difference but i dont think the shop i went to had the best troubleshooting equipment. But is it safe to assume now that the injector does indeed need replacing? I only ask this because i was wondering if possibly a sensor could be malfunctioning.

Additionally when I took the injectors out last time I lost a bunch of the clippy things so the electrical connections are just pressed on, but im sure they arent losing connection.

I just dont want to throw parts at the car...
 
We (and you) cannot determine if the fuel injector needs replacement as you said you aren't sure if the shop did it right. Now, the fact that you lost " lost a bunch of the clippy things so the electrical connections are just pressed on," is a problem. I'm really surprised you do not a misfire code by now.

The only sure way is to send it to Ford and have them do a real time scan of the PCM. But you really do need to replace those missing "bunch of the clippy things".
 
Ok well all gaps are good. But the miss is still there, and still no CEL. So my question is now should I pay the shop for the injector replacement. Or just do it myself?

I dont know if this makes a difference but i dont think the shop i went to had the best troubleshooting equipment. But is it safe to assume now that the injector does indeed need replacing? I only ask this because i was wondering if possibly a sensor could be malfunctioning.

Additionally when I took the injectors out last time I lost a bunch of the clippy things so the electrical connections are just pressed on, but im sure they arent losing connection.

I just dont want to throw parts at the car...

You can measure the resistance on all your injectors with an ohm meter. Check and see the reading should all be between IIRC : 14-16ohms.
Whatever it is, all the good ones will read the same, the bad one will be really high or really low. THey must all be the same per bank too.
If one is off then that is the culprit. If they all read good and you check your connections and they are also good, then you may want to run a compression test on your engine to see the state of the engine.
Injectors are easy to replace, just unbolt the fuel rail and pop out the bad one. Yo umust pull themanifold to do these tests.

Also, if your wires are brand new in the past couple of weeks, they may be a problem instead.
 
Ok well how do i replace those clips(is there a source besides a junkyard?) or what else works well to secure the electrical connections. And what kind of a dumbass designed a two piece connector? I figured they held themselves on by suction pretty well and with the UIM in the way the connectors were not going to move.....

I ordered 1 new injector yesterday online. When it gets here I will just replace it with the assumption that the shop correctly diagonosed the problems because they are professionals and probably know better than me.
 
Ok well how do i replace those clips(is there a source besides a junkyard?) or what else works well to secure the electrical connections. And what kind of a dumbass designed a two piece connector?

They were designed by the same genius who let them put self destructing wiring harnesses in the 95-97 models.

Be that as it may, unless we become design engineers and build our own cars, we're stuck with what they make.

Go to rockauto.com and get new connectors. They're about $4.50 apiece. Try not to lose the "clippy things" next time.
 
What a PITA, hopefully i will figure something else by nextweekend. I could probably pull the lower intake manifold and find them if they didnt fall out of the car during the testdrive....... Why does this always happen to me? Anyways so does anyone know of a home fix for losing the connector releases?
 
Well I am going to replace the injector today, i think zip ties will be what im going to use for the time being to hold the electrical connections in. Anyways I will report back when I know if the injecotr fixed my problem or not.
 
OK well to close this topic, I did replace the injector, in the process i also broke some of the plastic tubing for the pcv valve and had to replace that also. So basically didnt test drive very far but the stuter seems to be gone....
 
Yeah right. :rolleyes: <RE: they are professionals>
Hopefully you did meet a professional this time....they are out there just few and far between.

You should have checked the resistance on all the injectors first as it isn't that hard.

Good luck though.
 
Ya I would have no prob checking resistance but i dont own a voltmeter, its been on my list of things to pick up forever but never got around to it. Anyways I was driving last night the CEL was on again, i knew something wasnt quite right and so i discovered my tps sensor connector was loose, i put it back in but havent driven around yet, but with driving when it was partially connected it didnt stutter in the same manner it did before so i need to take her out today and verify that it works properly. Hopefully she will not stutter anymore. I think I fixed it.
 
You know those wire clips are supposed to stay put right? You push in on them and they pull right off the injector plug.
 
Ok so I finally threw a code its the P401 EGR Flow Insufficient. I think this could explain why the engine seems to stutter a little bit. I have already cleared the TB Passages, what should be my next course of action?
 
ARG! why hasnt anybody bothered to ask this guy what plugs and wires he installed.... You said they have less then 500 miles on them. Thats fine and dandy, but if you didnt use motorcraft or autolite plugs you are asking for misfires.

My engine actually cracked a champion plug creating misfires. I did ended up putting motorcraft plugs into the engine and BAM problem completely solved. It helped a lot when I got my new Accel coil pack and Ford Racing wires.

What plugs did you install?
 
ARG! why hasnt anybody bothered to ask this guy what plugs and wires he installed.... You said they have less then 500 miles on them. Thats fine and dandy, but if you didnt use motorcraft or autolite plugs you are asking for misfires.

...

Originally quoted by warmonger 9-5-06
Hate to say it but it sounds like plug wires. Can be a combination of the wire type and the spark plugs you are using. Use double platinum plugs and a new set of wires.

And again on 9-09-06
...Also, if your wires are brand new in the past couple of weeks, they may be a problem instead.
 
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