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Help My brakes are DONE and I need new rotors!!!!

Q

qbcsvt

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
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Location
Up North New Jersey
Hey guys, I was on the highway down to the shore today and on my way back up to Rutgers, I was going pretty fast with my buddies and we were having a little fun on the highway. So.... We met up with an old 'vette and a custom hot rod and the guys liked the SVTs we all were going at it having some fun! Well regardless My friends and I kinda like to be close to each other and we end up using our brakes a lot! I started to hear my car squeal when I would brake.....Soo no more brake pads I assume..... and there is a LINE on my Rotor RIGHT NOW...ghey!!!

So basically, I NEED NEW ROTORS AND PADS and was gonna go purchase some BENDIX Brakes from autopartswarehouse.com BUT IM NOT SURE which ROTORS to GO WITH. I was thinking the POWERSTOP(Cross Drilled) but they look like they are GOLDISH???
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/p...9&modelid=98&year=1999&partid=78&brandid=3876 at like $93 a side or the EBC Rotors(DIMPLE/SLOTTED) http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/p...9&modelid=98&year=1999&partid=78&brandid=4074 at like $158 a pair.

Really need help on this one kinda quick so i can order...THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!

- Amyn
 
EBC rotors are kinda ghey. Powerslot SLOTTED rotors are better if your not going with a normal rotor.
 
I'd say go forth to your dealer and get the stuff so you know you'll have the right parts or call up Bill at the Teamford parts place and get a discount. Might be less money than those things you are looking at.
Karl
 
Well Im planning on getting a Big Brake kit some time in the future and the fronts will probably go to the back with warmongers brake kit! Now I just wanna get something to do the job for like a 6-8 months and look decent!!!

- Amyn
 
How about those r1 concept guys? they have Silver ZINC slotted and drilled for like nothing!

Also I have been looking for brake pads and I see 2 types of brakes and it asks do you have a CSVT before may 99 or after may 99! I thought only the E0 had different brake calipers??? HEH!

- Amyn
 
Ya, that would honestly be your safest bet.

The range of those cross drilled/slotted rotors is too vast, there are some cheap ones that will rust on you in like 2 years, and there are spendy ass ones that in my opinion dont really do jack but improve the rice look.

I bought a "set" of those cheapie ebay ones for all four corners for like 128 shipped and they were pieces of junk.

I learned from that crapola crap crap, and went to napa and bought some "premium" rotors.

If you hold a premium rotor, compared to the cheapie that they sell, you will see its worth it.....thicker, heavier, and can take a beating.

Have the cashier at a auto parts store, bring to you BOTH premium, and the cheapie rotor and you will see the difference.

Its worth the extra couple bucks..... I think they were like 60 bucks a piece or a lil more for the premium ones up front.

For the rear, you could get a set of cheapies.

Dont sell yourself short on the front, cause you need some good discs on the front. After a while those cheap ass ones will warp and wobble on you very fast.
 
Thanks a lot thats what i thought after reading about them....

Is it to hard to remove/replace.... I couldnt find a how-to or ne thing and i dont have the repair manual/CD

- Amyn
 
No, Its a very simple process.

The only part that is hard about swapping your rotors, is/can be taking them off...

There is NOTHING attached to the rotor to hold it in place on the hub. The rim, when its bolted on your car holds the rotor on, basically.

It slides over the 4 Lug bolts. Remember, it is attched to absolutely nothing, so dont think if its hard to get off the hub, that its bolted on, its loose in there a couple wacks will get it to loosen up.

some Wd-40 may help ya out. but usually a wack or two will get it to pop off.

You may have to put some heat to it to get it off if its rusted on.

Dont put direct heat on the hub too much if you need to heat it up.

Be careful with your calipers when you remove them, zip-tie them up safely to your spring or somethin, so they dont dangle, and stress the brake lines.

MOST IMPORTANT:

When you put new rotor on, use 1 lug nut from your rim and torque the lug down on the rotor, you dont have to torque like superman status, so just a good firm twist will do. (almost like your putting on the rim type-of-thing, but without the rim, you know) this is to compress the new rotor all the way, and straighten it out, so the caliper goes on fairly straight and even. Leave the lug nut tightened on the rotor, and bolt your caliper back on.
After you are done with the caliper install, remove the lug, Take a good look of your easy work, and say, "my brakes are gonna be so SWEEEEET" and prepare for the other side.

Have you ever done your brakes before?
 
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I havent done the brakes before on my SVT as I am a new/recent owner of the car. But I have done brakes on a civic and a corolla before so i dont think that will be hard.

But if thats all it takes to smack that sucker out and use the torque I believe I can do it...

Just awaiting the rotors to come in...

- Amyn
 
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