Finally got my CEL code!

[protege_chris]

Not sure how to interpret it, however.

Blinked twice REALLY fast right after the fan sped up and everything.

Then, 3 3 5 3 3 5 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Looked up code 335,
335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range

What's the fix for this, and am I even reading the code right?

 

[Tony2005]

Check wiring connector for DPFE sensor, test DPFE Sensor and then change if necessary.

Instructions in Autozonelink.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/ca/1e/0900823d801bca1e/repairInfoPages.htm

Note that 111 denotes the system checks ok. Was your CEL on?

 

[protege_chris]

Not when I did the test. It never comes on until it's up to temp (it generally runs barely below the line to the right of normal and the left of "holy hell it's hot"). I'm gonna drive it to temperature tomorrow and run the test again.. but definitely got the 335. Where's the physical location of the DPFE sensor? Sorry for asking a million questions.. but know I appreciate all the answers!

edit: overlooked the PICTURES which clearly showed me.

Should I clear the codes before I get it to come back on tomorrow? Is that as simple as removing specific fuse(s)

 

[protege_chris]

Reading back over.. I don't have access to a hand vacuum pump to test it.. should I take my chances and just replace it? If so.. how much will a new one run me? (it's a stealership only part, right?)

 

[Tony2005]

...Should I clear the codes before I get it to come back on tomorrow? Is that as simple as removing specific fuse(s)

Yes and yes. Fuse 4 and 11 in the Power Distribution Box next to the battery.

 

[protege_chris]

Reset the computer.. drove around until I got a CEL, came home.. killed car, jumped pin, got a new code with key "ON".

Sadly.. the light seems to go off when I start idling for a while, and it only comes on after the car gets to the 3/4th point on the temp. gauge.

332 (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly

Still got the 335.

So I'm getting two EGR codes, safe bet that's what it is. Is there ANY way to test the sensor without access to a vacuum pump? If not.. is it a dealership only part? Can't seem to find it at autozone or advanceautoparts.

 

[protege_chris]

Does the second code help specify the problem any more?

 

[Tony2005]

Does the second code help specify the problem any more?

Not really. Fix what you know first.

 

[protege_chris]

Where can I get a replacement for it, dealership only?

 

[Tony2005]

Autozone or Advance or Napa also sells them.

 

[Rogerm60]

So I'm getting two EGR codes, safe bet that's what it is. Is there ANY way to test the sensor without access to a vacuum pump? If not.. is it a dealership only part? Can't seem to find it at autozone or advanceautoparts.

Put a hose on the EGR valve and suck it open. The engine should come close to dying although it may recover. If RPM does not drop, clean out the EGR passages in the UIM thoroughly and try again.