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Temperature Range

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ZeroHour

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Temperature Range Question here:

My the back of my temp sending unit (unit sending to the dash) broke, so the temperature read in the red. The fan still kicked on and it made it from about Feb to now for me to fix it. (yeah I know)

So today I put in the new sensor, and my temp guage reads "A" while driving, and "L" when in park. The old gauage when working read normally inbetween "OR" while driving and "RM" while parking or stopped. When I parked and the guage read "L" the fans kicked on.

From reading other posts they are supposedly "low" and "high" fan speeds. I have never noticed a difference in the almost 3 years I've owned the car.

Could there be something wrong with the unit sending to the fan as well? I was driving @ 60 with the grill out while the guage was reading "A" and the engine honestly does not run at hotter or colder then it did the day I bought it.

So anything I should consider looking at? besides trying to get high price code reader and see what the temps are actually reading from the PCM?

TIA
 
the PCM uses a different sensor from the one used for the gauge to determine what the temp is
 
striker2 said:
the PCM uses a different sensor from the one used for the gauge to determine what the temp is
Click to expand...

yeah I guess I should said the other sending unit. I already know that.

I'm just wondering if the unit for metal temps is also due to be changed, and that the fan isn't kicking on soon enough. OR if the new temp sending unit (dash) is just working in a different range then the old one.
 
you would have to hook it up to a computer and see what the engine temp is reading to see if the sensor appears to be accurate. ford had a lot of trouble early on with ect sensors but not in the contour/mystique range. but that doesn't mean you don't have one starting to go.​
 
Try a Motorcraft teperature gauge sender

Try a Motorcraft teperature gauge sender

Try Motorcraft sender. There are two types: Motorcraft SW5046 Ford F5RZ-10884-B, which I used in my 1998 Mystique Duratec, 1 wire connection. Motorcraft SW5030 Ford F5RZ-10884-A, has a 2 pin plug on it, which was the wrong one for my car, fits newer than 1998 (IIRC.) A CEG'er had your exact problem, fixed with the Motorcraft in place of Wells sender. Try www.rockauto.com.

The High fan speed only happens when the A/C is on and the engine is hot and it's above 85 out. I tested my high and low circuits because I never witnessed the High speed. After I fixed the A/C it Howls pretty good, alternating high and low! If you turn on the A/C the cooling fan starts on Low. Your temp gauge should read M on the gauge or lower.
 
yeah I know what sensor you are talking about. (the one wire/ two pin)

Mine is actually the Merker one you mentioned. No plug, the wire has a thread cap that must be twisted down over the temp sensor. It again is another bad ford design decision. You have a double threaded sensor, and neither reverses. So you have to twist the wire around to install the sensor. :nonono:
 
hey I'm getting readyfor work, so I'll check when I get home today.

I drove the car again last night. Temp does the same thing. Drives in the "A" spot. And moved a little towards "L" at a red light.

I would like everyone to remember that the old sensor ran in the "OR" And RM" ranage! I honestly believe its the new sensor.

But I will check on the ducting.
 
You don't have to thread the connector, it pushes on:) My Dodge has the same type. It is odd, but stays tight.
 
Are you sure? besides Dodge is not Ford...

The connector had to be screwed in. You can, at least I could, feel the threads in the connector. Pushing the connector on would have been impossible. I had to stand there leaning on the engine to get in there and unthread the old one as well.
 
Yes. Whole sender threads into the engine, electrical connector pushes on. Doesn't matter as long as you have it connected. (I meant to say my Dodge also had same type sender as my Mystique.)
 
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