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Anything look wrong in this?

starjammir said:
What color should I use then? I used blue on these. I just want to make sure nothing will loosen.
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Getting enough torque on them is more important than loctite. You can add the blue for a "belt and suspenders" approach, but make sure you get enough torque w/ out yeilding the bolt.

If at all possible, find an OEM caliper bolt to use. They are often 12.9, and a lot of them include a specially formulated "loctite" type patch pre-applied. One thing to remember is that the OEM bolts also go through far more rigorous quality control than most bolts you can buy seperate. Historically, there has been a big problem with "aftermarket" bolts not living up to what they promise.

Fwiw, starjammir and i looked at a bunch more of his damage pics last night, and the whole thing was almost definately caused by a bolt backing out, and allowing the caliper to move. The second bolt failed after the caliper was already loose and had hit the wheel. I think it is very clear that warmonger's kit (including the brackets and fasteners) had nothing to do with the incident, and were simply along for the ride . . .
 
Time for Weight Gain 3000. Beefcake!!!
sbeefcake.jpg
 
Rara said:
Getting enough torque on them is more important than loctite. You can add the blue for a "belt and suspenders" approach, but make sure you get enough torque w/ out yeilding the bolt.

If at all possible, find an OEM caliper bolt to use. They are often 12.9, and a lot of them include a specially formulated "loctite" type patch pre-applied. One thing to remember is that the OEM bolts also go through far more rigorous quality control than most bolts you can buy seperate. Historically, there has been a big problem with "aftermarket" bolts not living up to what they promise.

Fwiw, starjammir and i looked at a bunch more of his damage pics last night, and the whole thing was almost definately caused by a bolt backing out, and allowing the caliper to move. The second bolt failed after the caliper was already loose and had hit the wheel. I think it is very clear that warmonger's kit (including the brackets and fasteners) had nothing to do with the incident, and were simply along for the ride . . .
Click to expand...

Ya that sounds about right. Still trying to figure out how it came out because when I swapped wheels last week before alignment everything was fine, now its all gone. Thanks again for spending the hour and half looking at the stuff and explaining it all to me. I really appreciate it, now I just have to get it all back together and come down and take you for a ride with the suspension.
 
starjammir said:
Ya that sounds about right. Still trying to figure out how it came out because when I swapped wheels last week before alignment everything was fine, now its all gone. Thanks again for spending the hour and half looking at the stuff and explaining it all to me. I really appreciate it, now I just have to get it all back together and come down and take you for a ride with the suspension.
Click to expand...

The bolt will literally vibrate itself out. Once it comes out the caliper will come off axis, and the pads will grip the rotor. As this happens the caliper isn't being held into place and will spin, usually breaking the other bolt off and in your case just saying goodbye altogether. :blackeye:

This happened to me I just didn't post about it. This was in my very young contour days. I bought a torque wrench and put on some muscle since then. :laugh:
 
Do you need new stock calipers? The fella that bought my car from Chicago should have my old stockers. I can get you in touch with him if you need. Also, I've got a 3' 1/2" drive breaker bar I can send you for torquing the new bolts down. ;)
 
LOL thanks. Im waiting for Reebs to get back to me about the calipers Pete had on his car. I hope he can get me em. I got a 14" breaker bar here I think im gonna start to use so this dont happen again.
 
Ya, I know they arent cheap, I am going to run with a stock line for a little til I get another set or something. I was just thinking of getting a Baer kit or something...hell maybe sell the car...I dont know :(
 
Well,
I have been very absorbed in military matters the last few days and I will be for a few more.
I haven't even had a chance to come on and defend myself nor read any email since yesterday. I've been working REAL 14 hour days.

I feel a little disappointed that you didn't at least get back with me before you went and posted all the stuff. I TOLD you I wanted to post the information but I wanted to do a full analysis on it before hand and then post up everything. My reputation is at stake and everything I've ever done both good and bad was meticulously represented. On top of that I have front brakes in service now for approximately 1.5 YEARS and there have been no issues. I think if people read back they will see what effort I put into a safe design and spent a lot of money on quality overbuilt parts.
The factory bolts were 12mm with a 10.9 hardness rating and a corrosion coating. I went with 12.9 on the bracket to steering knuckle and 10.9 on the caliper bolts. THe brakes MUST be torqued to factory specs and possibly 10% over is a good idea for extra clamp load.
Also, if the top spacer is not able to sit perfectly true on both brackets because there is material interference from the knuckle then it will put a bending load in the bolt as you begin to torque it down. Worse case the spacer won't sit even. This is a MUST to prevent cyclic loading from flexing and unflexing the bolt and causing it to loosen up.
I haven't even seen the pictures but this sounds like what I was expecting to find.
I appreciate all I appreciate all the honesty and in order to reward that honesty I'm going to completely replace all his brake hardware free of charge. I do not feel responsible for it but I am sympathetic and want him up and running and I want to get the old hardware back for analysis. I can only say that I am a man of integrity and would have admitted any error on my part. We are thankful that this is all that happened.

Tom
 
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