• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

how big is gas tank?

The remotes sell for roughly 1,000.00..

I just so happen to have two of them! (Unfortunately, when I went through Wayne training school, I had to buy one of them! ouch!

:blackeye::blackeye::blackeye:

what's the principle behind them? Maybe I can build a prototype.
Can't the gas man change prices form the inside, from his cashier, why the remote?

if the remotes are efficient at doing what they're supposed to do, haven't gas companies think of ways to protect against it?
it doens't work with any digital pump or price is set too high for people to afford it? it only takes one remote for somebody to study and build another that works the same for a fraction of the cost.
 
Without getting off in too much of a tangent:

Sometimes you have standalone pumps. You can place them in a mode which does not check for a controller (point of sale system, and fuel controller inside) and thus the prices are set outside at the pump.

You could also need to change the price at ONE pump, and not all. When changing the price via the controller, it actually changes all grades for all pumps. If there is a problem affecting one pump, or one pump loop (they are ran in series, in sets of 8) then you would change it at the pump to troubleshoot just that pump.

The biggest reason behind the remotes would be that you have to understand that the remotes are not "price changing doohickeys" and nothing more. they are actually designed to be able to change ANYTHING the pump does. (pump ID's, handle switch, and nozzle ID's, IP addresses, comm baud settings, fuel grade blending settings, flow rate, printer settings, etc.

It is a complete diagnostic "interface" between the technician and the pump software. The alternative is to open the cabinet up, pull out three boards and then hook a laptop up to a port inside. This is quicker, if you aren't doing a TON of changes, or loading changes via a macro, or are troubleshooting a problem. It just HAPPENS to have "all" the functions of a pump, INCLUDING pricing per grade.
 
Without getting off in too much of a tangent:

Sometimes you have standalone pumps. You can place them in a mode which does not check for a controller (point of sale system, and fuel controller inside) and thus the prices are set outside at the pump.

You could also need to change the price at ONE pump, and not all. When changing the price via the controller, it actually changes all grades for all pumps. If there is a problem affecting one pump, or one pump loop (they are ran in series, in sets of 8) then you would change it at the pump to troubleshoot just that pump.

The biggest reason behind the remotes would be that you have to understand that the remotes are not "price changing doohickeys" and nothing more. they are actually designed to be able to change ANYTHING the pump does. (pump ID's, handle switch, and nozzle ID's, IP addresses, comm baud settings, fuel grade blending settings, flow rate, printer settings, etc.

It is a complete diagnostic "interface" between the technician and the pump software. The alternative is to open the cabinet up, pull out three boards and then hook a laptop up to a port inside. This is quicker, if you aren't doing a TON of changes, or loading changes via a macro, or are troubleshooting a problem. It just HAPPENS to have "all" the functions of a pump, INCLUDING pricing per grade.

Totally different story. I thought you'd just pull up to the pump, use the magic remote to set price, get out and start pumping like there's no tomorrow.
and then again, doing so would lead to suspicion since all gas stations keep track of sales per pump and have surveillance systems; it's very risky to do.

The only best & safe way is to play with the nozzle, apply the physics on the gas pump where you can cheat without the gas man suspecting anything else than a pump problem. The only deal I ever got at a gas station was premium fuel for the price of regular. That happened when they ran out of the first 2 fuel grades and they sold premium for the price of regular, which, to think of it, the gas man is ripping us off since it affords to sell that cheap.

Tell more about the anatomy and physics of the gas pump, I couldn't find anything with google.
 
You won't... its all trademarked, and industry secrets.

Schlumberger is JUST NOW (12 or so years after they stopped making their STP's (submerged turbine pump... pumps gas from the UST to the island) releasing the specs.. Why? I don't know.. they're outdated, now, and of no use to anyone with the newer (STILL old, as well!) designs out. The same can be said for Red Jacket, and the like.

I've got books upon books on the subject matter... If you want to know anything I can be sure to let you know..

I'll get a real brief description of the physics behind it in a bit (possibly tomorrow or so at lunch)... gas flow and control, metering, etc.. but I'll PM it to you, unless someone ELSE states that they care to hear it, so as to keep clutter down.
 
I'll get a real brief description of the physics behind it in a bit (possibly tomorrow or so at lunch)... gas flow and control, metering, etc.. but I'll PM it to you, unless someone ELSE states that they care to hear it, so as to keep clutter down.
I'm mildly interested aswell. Always wondered exactly how they work. (and more recently, if theres an efficient way of cheating them.)
 
In the desert, Liquid Fuels Maint ordered a new Gilbarco Mogas pump to replace an 'identical model' old one that had a motor die (and the other motor on the way out). They needed our electrical assistance to wire it up, since the old one only had 3 wires per side and the new one had something like 12!

Something like $12,000 for the pump, and we had to void the warranty to install it. The old pump had a mechanical reset on the on/off handle. New one had an electric motor to reset the dials.

Our problem? We only had 120V to feed it, and it was a local aquisition (everything 'locally aquired' was 240V). Not too much of a problem, since the pump motors were dual voltage and easily switchable. NOTHING we did would allow the pumps to work, however. After 2 nights of fiddling with it and almost giving up, we ripped apart the on/off handle and noticed that the reset motor was ONLY 240V, and it needed to run to engage the larger contactor inside that would operate the motor.

So what we did was rewire it and put the motor on the smaller contact.

Didn't matter that the numbers worked, since it's military. All that mattered was that you turn the handle and it starts pumping, and that the shafts meant to turn the numbers worked so they could hook up the equipment counting the fuel pumped.

I dunno, figured Ray might wanna hear! :shrug:
 
My 98.5 manual says it has a 14.5 gallon tank. I ran it what I though was within miles of running out yesterday (3oo miles) and when I filled up it only took in just under 13 gallons, is this due to the prev. pump calibration issue??
Also how are some of these people getting close to or getting a full 350 out of one tank..jealous!!! Maybe I should finally change the fuel filter, I suppose 175,000 is enough..
 
yes 175k on the fuel filter is enough .... what I hit near 350 that was all highway driving at about 65 mph ....
 
Agreed.. 175K is a LONG time on a filter.

When I drove from Central Texas to Louisiana, I got about 325-335 miles per tank. Please keep in mind that miles per tank is really irrelevant. A Jumbo jet can get 1100, 1500, or 3000 MILES per tank. still, its only like.. what? 1-2 mpg? (arbitrary number/guess)
 
I have my fuel filters changed every 50,000 kms. That said, I was having loss of power over 100kms so I decided to have the fuel filter changed at 40,000 kms. The mechanic said it was clogged. Must have got some bad gas. Worried about what is inside my tank now. My mileage has dropped but still decent. I think I am getting about 10L/100kms with a mix of hwy and city.
 
Hey boy! Don't you know how to speak Amarikun?? These are AMARIKUN FORUMS..

:D :D

Your mileage isn't terrible.. I would suspect that you should look at plugs/wires/air filter more than anything else. They are relatively easy to check, and can cause a drop in mileage as well, especially at (at least) 123K miles, depending on how often you've done your maintenance.
 
When I drove from Central Texas to Louisiana, I got about 325-335 miles per tank. Please keep in mind that miles per tank is really irrelevant. A Jumbo jet can get 1100, 1500, or 3000 MILES per tank. still, its only like.. what? 1-2 mpg? (arbitrary number/guess)
Well, yeah, but how else can you figure out your miles per gallon? If you're saying that it's irrelevant because you'd have to run out of gas each time to know your "true" miles per tank, then yes, it doesn't make sense. My MPT is figured on my MPG X fuel capacity of the tank = projected miles per tank which, all things being equal, should be "fairly" accurate. I have the information that I "could" have gone another 100 miiles or more but I filled at the 1/4 tank mark anyway just to be safe. It's nice to know what your MPT is in case you're in one of those "no gas for another 200 miles" scenarios. Still, even if I had a half tank I'd probably stop and fill it anyway. :cool:
Karl
 
I was simply stating that "comparing" MPT between vehicles, or MAKES of vehicles was irrelevant. Not KNOWING it. I would RECOMMEND knowing how many miles you can get in a tank.. sure!
 
I was simply stating that "comparing" MPT between vehicles, or MAKES of vehicles was irrelevant. Not KNOWING it. I would RECOMMEND knowing how many miles you can get in a tank.. sure!
Ah, okay, I understand what you are saying. I might have missed any post that went "off Contour."
Karl
 
Heh, stupid question?

Has anyone put a larger tank on their SVT? I has a 98 SE Sport now have a 98 SVT and the manuals have 2 different sizes for the gas tanks, the SVT is 14.5 and the SE is 16.2

It was sure nice to be able to drive over 400 miles in my SE on one tank. (Can't now that it needs some work)
 
Heh, stupid question?

Has anyone put a larger tank on their SVT? I has a 98 SE Sport now have a 98 SVT and the manuals have 2 different sizes for the gas tanks, the SVT is 14.5 and the SE is 16.2

It was sure nice to be able to drive over 400 miles in my SE on one tank. (Can't now that it needs some work)
I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong but it probably has something to do with the dual exhaust system on the SVT as to why there needs to be a smaller tank. :shrug:
Karl
 
If anyone still has any doubt about Ray has stated, not only in this thread but others about how gas dispensers, UST (Undergroud Storage Tank) systems etc work. I'll vouch that he's dead on with everything he's stated. I currently work in the petroleum industr and know more about the inner workings of a gas station then I every imagined possible.

As Ray stated it's not a good idea to force the dispenser to keep pumping after the auto shutoff has engaged, not only do you run the risk of have your new fuel sucked back into the USTs by Stage II vapor recovery, but you do risk that chance of spilling fuel which is really not good.

Oh and on topic, I believe mine has a 15.4 gal tank.
 
I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong but it probably has something to do with the dual exhaust system on the SVT as to why there needs to be a smaller tank. :shrug:
Karl

So in reality, if there was no exhaust (or custom bent around it), then it could be bigger? Hrm....
 
Back
Top