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Has anyone ever found 3L Forged pistons
- Thread starter surfscape
- Start date
beyondloadedSE
Hard-core CEG'er
Ross Racing or Diamond. Both make pistons for the 3.0L.
Btw, this is covered in the FI FAQ.
Btw, this is covered in the FI FAQ.
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
That is a later model piston. They should be good for a lot of power.
What happened to that one?
What happened to that one?
DemonSVT
CEG'er
That appears to be "too lean" then detonation damage. Cracked the top ring land and melted the piston top. Nitrous perhaps.
If so that is a tuning error causing failure.
If so that is a tuning error causing failure.
It's from my supercharged 3L escape with a Kennebell kit running 6 psi. I have two of them now from two different builds. Kennbell provides the tune but do not offer any tech assistance. You find these things out after the fact unfortunately.:nonono:
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T-RED 98
CEG'er
Just a few questions....
What was the boost-a-pump set on?
What boost levels were you running? (6-12psi?)
Stock pulley?
Mark
What was the boost-a-pump set on?
What boost levels were you running? (6-12psi?)
Stock pulley?
Mark
The first piston popped during about 3000 miles under 6 and 9 PSI KB pulleys. The second one as with only a 6# and I used octane boost on 93 octane only. I never heard an knock. It lasted about 3000 miles too.
Boost a pump is not required on the #6 pulley but I do have one installed at it is set of 20 (which does not transate to anything I can tell)
Also running plugs 2 heat ranges cooler than stack and one cooler than KB suggests. Engine runs great until I hear what sounds like a rod knock. I pull the plugs and borescope the cylinders and I see this piston break.
THe KB tune is a chip that is plugged into the back of the PCM rather than a re-flash of the stock chip.
Boost a pump is not required on the #6 pulley but I do have one installed at it is set of 20 (which does not transate to anything I can tell)
Also running plugs 2 heat ranges cooler than stack and one cooler than KB suggests. Engine runs great until I hear what sounds like a rod knock. I pull the plugs and borescope the cylinders and I see this piston break.
THe KB tune is a chip that is plugged into the back of the PCM rather than a re-flash of the stock chip.
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
Well most of my experience is telling me this is just a tuning issue.
First off it should be easy enough to just plug in the right injectors and provide a proper tune with no boost pumps or any of that crap.
Second, I recommend stock heat range plugs, double plats until you start going over about 12-14psi.
We've run 12psi a lot on stock plugs and no issues though most people like to the use the NGK TR6 plug that is one step cooler than stock. Those plugs work well too but in cold weather and cold start it is better with stock plugs.
There are other questions I'd ask too, mainly, does your engine come equipped with a knock sensor? I'm guessing no. Also, where is your intake are temp sensor located? I'm beginning to wonder if it isn't located before the supercharger inlet rather than after the supercharger.
Get me your pcm code and we'll see about stripping all that bullshyt off, putting in properly sized injectors and a proper tune.
Thanks Warmonger,
The escape is at my shop right now so I'll send the info you request on the PM Tuesday (if I don't get out the sooner) The KB kit has 30# injectors.
I went with the cooler plugs as I was getting knock under highway loads in O/D (low RPM) with the first piston set. The cooler plugs and octane boost seemed to take the (audible) knock out of it. Every other load and throttle setting ran great. No Knock.
KB tune took the Knock sensor out of it... I kno but they said that as part of the original ford tune. Originally they gave me a tune with it active and everytime I would hit the throttle the engine timing would retard as much as 20 degrees and obviously kill the power. The second tune SEEMED to work better but obviously I still have a problem. I agree it is in the tune and I'll get you the info ASAP and I thank you for the help.
The escape is at my shop right now so I'll send the info you request on the PM Tuesday (if I don't get out the sooner) The KB kit has 30# injectors.
I went with the cooler plugs as I was getting knock under highway loads in O/D (low RPM) with the first piston set. The cooler plugs and octane boost seemed to take the (audible) knock out of it. Every other load and throttle setting ran great. No Knock.
KB tune took the Knock sensor out of it... I kno but they said that as part of the original ford tune. Originally they gave me a tune with it active and everytime I would hit the throttle the engine timing would retard as much as 20 degrees and obviously kill the power. The second tune SEEMED to work better but obviously I still have a problem. I agree it is in the tune and I'll get you the info ASAP and I thank you for the help.
warmonger
Hard-core CEG'er
It Looks like the IAT sensor is on the inlet of the SC and not on the outlet. I mean I don't see it located anywhere else so it probably is there.
Therefore it won't pull timing, adjust fuel, etc with regard to temperature.
This basically disables a ton of stock safety features from the stock computer. Add to that the knock sensor being disabled and you get knock which breaks pistons. CRAZY.
The knock sensor retard rate can be adjusted and changed for various rpms as well. It will take quite a bit of time but I'm positive I can make a good tune.
The first thing I will ask you to do is verify the position of the IAT and if in the inlet then to pull that IAT sensor out of the inlet and put it into that black outlet pipe. Then we'll know what temps we are dealing with actually going into the engine. You can do this easily with a simple mod to the sensor. We take the sensor and file off the ridge at the end that retains it in the intake tube, then we take a die from a tap and die set and just thread the body of it with some threads. Doesn't matter what tap/die combo you use as long as it fits on the sensor body enough to make threads.
Then you take the corresponding tap, drill and tap a hole in the black intake pipe. Use a nice fat o-ring and or piece of silicone rubber with a hole in it to make a gasket to insure sealing.
These sensors threaded into the pipes have so far withstood 15psi boost no leaks so you should be fine on your SC system.
Therefore it won't pull timing, adjust fuel, etc with regard to temperature.
This basically disables a ton of stock safety features from the stock computer. Add to that the knock sensor being disabled and you get knock which breaks pistons. CRAZY.
The knock sensor retard rate can be adjusted and changed for various rpms as well. It will take quite a bit of time but I'm positive I can make a good tune.
The first thing I will ask you to do is verify the position of the IAT and if in the inlet then to pull that IAT sensor out of the inlet and put it into that black outlet pipe. Then we'll know what temps we are dealing with actually going into the engine. You can do this easily with a simple mod to the sensor. We take the sensor and file off the ridge at the end that retains it in the intake tube, then we take a die from a tap and die set and just thread the body of it with some threads. Doesn't matter what tap/die combo you use as long as it fits on the sensor body enough to make threads.
Then you take the corresponding tap, drill and tap a hole in the black intake pipe. Use a nice fat o-ring and or piece of silicone rubber with a hole in it to make a gasket to insure sealing.
These sensors threaded into the pipes have so far withstood 15psi boost no leaks so you should be fine on your SC system.
The only thing on the inlet side is the MAS, IAC and TPS. There is no seperate IAT. It looks to be a part of the Mass Air sensor according to alldata. So I assume I will need to get an after market one and route the harness. Any suggestions on a sensor?
beyondloadedSE
Hard-core CEG'er
Is that an SVT Escape? onder:
onder:JoeM
Veteran CEG'er
I am just curious... With all this time and effort spent on SC a 3L ... why would you use a mail order tune? Why not Cough up the 400-500 and get an ACTUAL dyno tune?
Well I've learned alot on this little venture and the Kennebell KIT was supposed to be just that. A kit that would work great right out of the box. It is not by any means and they don't support it at all. I now know quite well that every change needs its custom tune and I'm moving in that direction now and I'm looking for a Dyno that will deal with this in this area. I hear folks on this site have alot of good experience in this and hope they will help me do it right the next time.
Some more work needs to be done before I get to the dyno or I'm asting my time and money and will just need to do it again. I'd rather get the mechanical problems with the kit/system worked out first.
Some more work needs to be done before I get to the dyno or I'm asting my time and money and will just need to do it again. I'd rather get the mechanical problems with the kit/system worked out first.
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K99ja04
CEG'er
Anyone have a part number for 3L pistons from Ross or Diamond? Or at least some more specs like compression height? I believe bore is 89mm and stroke is 79.5mm. I can't seem to find a partnumber in the catalogs, is this a custom order job?
K99ja04
CEG'er
Ouch, but probably worth it. If they send you a build sheet with specs could you post it for the rest of us to custom order? I am months away from ordering these.