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What Capacitor For New System?

C

csvt2200

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Mar 21, 2007
Messages
511
Location
Lawrence, KS
Next weekend I'll be installing a Kicker Solo Baric 15L7 with a 900watt RMS amp on it. I know Capacitors are pretty much a must in the CSVTs, so I need some suggestions on a good brand of Capacitor?
 
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you shouldn't need a capsitor in this car...or any other car for that matter. unless you hit 88 mph.
 
why bandaid and put more strain on the poor alt?


think, after 2-3 seconds after you cap is drained of initial charge it must recharge while your amps continue to pull amperage.
 
well, truthfully I do notice less light dim when the subs hit cause of a cap.

Personally, I think it helps.

But I wouldnt go to extremes with say, an Alumapro spendy arse one.


Any lil 5 farad will do for me.

Next one I get will be a one of those power acoustic chromed out led one.
 
whats the peak on ur amp? you're going to want to be careful turning up that amp, seeing as the sub is 1000w rms. there's a chance you could kill your poor sub. that would be bad. and as for the capacitor, you might as well just get a new alternator and another battery lol. capacitors are worthless from many-a-friends' experiences.
 
Caps are not worthless. It helped my lights not dim. I KNOW it helped. You people who doubt, probly only purchased a 1/2 farad model and did not have enuff of a bank to show you an effect.
 
Upgrade the big 3.

How many years of mobile electronics do you have under your belt?

Anything larger than a .5farad cap puts more strain on the system as it has to recharge while the amp is still drawing current.

A cap is like putting on a bandaid when you need to have stiches. Ya it might help out but its not the correct thing to do. What amp do you have?

I had a elemental nine.1 1200wrms @ 1 ohm, along with a nine.4 with upgraded big 3. No caps no cheesy BS. Zero Issues
 
Well, I guess this argument will always be 2 sided.

I stand on my belief that my lights don't dim as much with my cap installed, then when it is not.

And that solely is where I place my belief in it.

Maybe it does work, maybe it doesn't. I can only speak from my experience.

And if you say you USED to own a cap, what has happened that made you take it out permanently?
 
zorrex said:
whats the peak on ur amp? you're going to want to be careful turning up that amp, seeing as the sub is 1000w rms. there's a chance you could kill your poor sub. that would be bad. and as for the capacitor, you might as well just get a new alternator and another battery lol. capacitors are worthless from many-a-friends' experiences.
Click to expand...


peak wattage of any car audio component has to be the most useless number to go by. According to your argument a 5000watt max flea market special amp may blow his Kicker sub. Just worry about RMS wattage. 1/2 a farad per 500RMS watts. Some may argue that capacitors are garbage, but a cap has solved the problem of dimming lights any time I have installed a system that dimmed the lights when the bass hit.


Note to all of CEG:
Don't take audio advice from a guy with dual subs in a neon box that "pound!"
 
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RandyCSVT said:
peak wattage of any car audio component has to be the most useless number to go by. According to your argument a 5000watt max flea market special amp may blow his Kicker sub. Just worry about RMS wattage. 1/2 a farad per 500RMS watts. Some may argue that capacitors are garbage, but a cap has solved the problem of dimming lights any time I have installed a system that dimmed the lights when the bass hit.


Note to all of CEG:
Don't take audio advice from a guy with dual subs in a neon box that "pound!"
Click to expand...

Regardless of how "useless" that number is, if its value in the amp is much greater than the rms of the subs, then you are still running a chance of blowing out your subs! If your amp is 1400w-800w, and your subs are 1800w-1000w, even though the chance isn't very high, you could still blow the subs.

And note to a$$hole:
I had purchased my first set of Dual subs (the original model, I have the newer model now) from a friend with an Audiobahn amp and wiring with it for a good price off a friend, who was getting a system of much higher wattage. I was very satisfied with how these performed and I decided on purchasing the newer Dual subs seeing as I had read on how they were a good deal (my previous set of subs were stolen). Certainly they aren't the greatest subs out there, but they perform well for their cost and they look good, regardless of what you say. This was my best option, being a poor college kid and all. When I get a bit older and have more money, I will get the good stuff. For now I get what I can manage. I cheaped out on my HU as well. I got a brand I know would last me awhile, but kept things in line. I purchased it when it was on sale, and I got the most basic model. I really wanted a HU that had bass override to send all the bass to the subs, but I couldn't afford it. Sometimes you have to skimp out when there are more important things in life than quality of subwoofers, like college.

And my subs are rather loud. A middle-aged lady I was following driving a little ole late 90's Corolla sped up by 20 mph over the speed limit to get away from me the other day (while in a 30mph zone). She kept looking in her rear-view mirror, and no I WASN'T tailgating her. And speaking of rear-view mirrors, mine is half broken now thanks to my subs. Thank you and have a nice day.
 
zorrex said:
Regardless of how "useless" that number is, if its value in the amp is much greater than the rms of the subs, then you are still running a chance of blowing out your subs! If your amp is 1400w-800w, and your subs are 1800w-1000w, even though the chance isn't very high, you could still blow the subs.

And note to a$$hole:
I had purchased my first set of Dual subs (the original model, I have the newer model now) from a friend with an Audiobahn amp and wiring with it for a good price off a friend, who was getting a system of much higher wattage. I was very satisfied with how these performed and I decided on purchasing the newer Dual subs seeing as I had read on how they were a good deal (my previous set of subs were stolen). Certainly they aren't the greatest subs out there, but they perform well for their cost and they look good, regardless of what you say. This was my best option, being a poor college kid and all. When I get a bit older and have more money, I will get the good stuff. For now I get what I can manage. I cheaped out on my HU as well. I got a brand I know would last me awhile, but kept things in line. I purchased it when it was on sale, and I got the most basic model. I really wanted a HU that had bass override to send all the bass to the subs, but I couldn't afford it. Sometimes you have to skimp out when there are more important things in life than quality of subwoofers, like college.

And my subs are rather loud. A middle-aged lady I was following driving a little ole late 90's Corolla sped up by 20 mph over the speed limit to get away from me the other day (while in a 30mph zone). She kept looking in her rear-view mirror, and no I WASN'T tailgating her. And speaking of rear-view mirrors, mine is half broken now thanks to my subs. Thank you and have a nice day.
Click to expand...


your evidence that your subs sound good is that some old lady drove away from you and you broke your own rear view mirror????

Congratulations your mirror fell off....good work!
Did you ever consider you may have been going to slow for the old lady. You do drive an ATX Zetec?


no the max wattage alone is not enough to say that you might blow a sub by providing too much power. I have seen plenty of super ****ty 11ty billion watt amps with neons sold at flea markets that would surprise me if they put out over 150RMS watts.

and to the poor college student argument. If you are so poor, don't buy subs. You could have saved the money you spent on that crap and bought something decent later on down the road.
 
im pumpin 1,100 watts from a kenwood amp to two 12 inc h kenwood subs holding about 1,300 watts. ya the lights dim but so what! it means you have a loud system. thats how i c it
 
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