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Ztec

Can you just run some seafoam through a vacuum line or is it worse than that? I bet I could gain a bit better gas mileage if I cleaned it all up. Maybe help out my cold idle problem a bit too (probably the IAC valve, but it ain't very bad so I just live with it).
 
I'm pretty sure a liquid cleaner isn't going to cut it. I couldn't get it to budge with gasoline and a coarse rag. What I have gotten off took a sharp object and some scraping. But like I said, the crap goes back in a good 4 inches or more, so scraping isn't going to get it all. I might have to break out the hammer and chisel and give that a shot.
 
What's the best way for cleaning it off the plastic?

I tried all kinds of brushes and a pressure washer, and it didn't work. Here's what did, with amazing results...

Go over to your local Wal-Mart and buy 8 gallons of Castrol Superclean. (I know that it's not cheap, but it's what works.) Find a big sink or tub that you can soak the manifold in overnight. Mix the Superclean with 50% HOT water. Let it soak for at least 12 hours.

Mine came out looking brand spanking new. My '96 ATX felt like it gained 10-15HP. I wish I had a before and after pic. :cool:

I'd also recommend replacing your intake manifold gasket. That's the reason why I had the manifold off in the first place. I was just trying to troubleshoot a bizzare vacuum leak and misfire problem. Turns out it was the intake manifold gasket. I wish that I had known that before replacing the injectors, MAF, IAC, plugs, wires, and both of the o2 sensors. :blackeye:

HTH,
BP
 
I have new intake and exhaust gaskets. :) But...EIGHT gallons?? Seems a little much combined with the water.

What's the best Dremmel tool to use to clean out the intake and exhaust ports on the head itself? Could/should I soak the head as well? It would sure make it a lot easier if I could. The damn thing is FILTHY!
 
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You may be able to get away with less but then your soak time will go up. I originally tried 2 gallons and it barely made a dent. The water was a little dirty after sitting overnight. With the 8 gallon 50/50 mix, after sitting overnight, the water was soo black that I couldn't see the intake manifold below a couple inches of water.

If you can find one, I'd use a tiny wire wheel on the dremel. Like this...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...es&subcat=Rotary+Tool&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1

Even then I'd be careful that you don't suck aluminum dust into the cylinders.

HTH,
BP
 
Ditto. :cool:


Linky no worky. :(

Dust in the cylinders isn't a problem, as the head is sitting on a bench. Would it be OK to dunk the head like you did the intake? There's a ton of crap on the head, and it will probably take hours of scrubbing to get it all off.


That blows. It's just a brass dremel wire wheel. If you do a search on Sears.com, look for a...

Craftsman Brass Brush Wheel
Sears item #00953132000 Mfr. model #53132
$2.99

The Superclean might turn the aluminum black, but yeah, that'd be one great way to get it squeaky clean. Just take out the buckets(lifters) so that the cleaner doesn't get trapped in there. Also, thoroughly rinse it off. Maybe even stick it in the oven at 250 degrees to boil any moisture off.


BTW, sorry for hiijacking your thread Rich. :eek:

HTH,
BP
 
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I just got a piece of 1" wide stainless bar stock from Ace Hardware for a few bucks. It took a while to cut/grind it to shape but it didn't look too bad. I think a one foot piece of 1" x 1/8" stainless bar stock was like $8. With the bolts and washers it was around $10.

That was before I ripped all of the EGR crap off and just epoxied the hole closed on the bottom of the manifold. ;)

BP
 
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that would actually be better for airflow cause then you dont have that damn pipe sticking into the manifold. i might have to do that.
 
EXACTLY! ;)

I was really surprised at how big that stupid pipe is that goes into the manifold. The top hat/diffuser thing can't be good for airflow.

I think I used two 1.5" fender washers and a bolt to seal off the hole. I then filled in the outside washer area with epoxy. I'll post a pic later.
 
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Is this what ya'll are referring to?

1004443sv6.jpg


1004444en0.jpg


What, exactly, is the purpose of the EGR valve, and how will it change the dynamics of the engine by bypassing it?

For some reason, I always thought this little valve on the back of the fuel rail was the EGR. What is it?

1004445rt3.jpg
 
the EGR valve alwows exhaust gas to come back into the cylinders deluting the mixture. it helps with keeping th NOx down by cooling the cylinders.

the thing on the back of the fuel rail is the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR)
 
the EGR valve alwows exhaust gas to come back into the cylinders deluting the mixture. it helps with keeping th NOx down by cooling the cylinders.

So if you bypass your EGR (Exhaust Gas Return??), your intake will remain cleaner, but wouldn't it cause the car to run hotter? Also, how will the ECU deal with the bypass? Will it trigger any codes?

Wait a sec...if it's routing exhaust gas back into the intake, that's going to warm the air in the intake some. That has to rob power.
 
So if you bypass your EGR (Exhaust Gas Return??), your intake will remain cleaner, but wouldn't it cause the car to run hotter? Also, how will the ECU deal with the bypass? Will it trigger any codes?

Wait a sec...if it's routing exhaust gas back into the intake, that's going to warm the air in the intake some. That has to rob power.


ahhh you're twisting our brains! maybe you should bypass it, and let us know how it turns out hehe :laugh:
 
the PCM only opens the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve under part throttle when cruising (ie interstate driving) removing really wont have an effect on the temp since it only recirculates while at speed and you have plenty of air moving across the radiator at that point.
 
Exhaust Gas Return??

e Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve
I was close! :D

the PCM only opens the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve under part throttle when cruising (ie interstate driving) removing really wont have an effect on the temp since it only recirculates while at speed and you have plenty of air moving across the radiator at that point.
OK. Good to know. Just to be clear, will disconnecting it cause the computer to throw a code? If the computer controls it, do I need to leave the valve itself in place and connected to the wiring, or can it be removed completely with no adverse effects?
 
if you remove it you will have to disable it in the PCM. if you leave the valve and the solenoid connected then when the PCM tries to activate it it will set an insufficient EGR code or it may open the valve and now your dumping hot exhaust gas into the engine compartment. if you have an xcal2 or a chip i would just get it disabled and be done with it.
 
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