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Cd player stays on?

S

s.rich06

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
199
Location
Baltimore, MD
Keyless entry doesnt work. CD player stays on but car still starts? Need :help: Quick. It just started happening today.:shrug:
 
I also noticed today that the in-dash clock is lit when the cd player comes on. Sometimes it will go off when i turn the car off but after a few mintues it will come back on while the car is still off. Can someone help me.:shrug:
 
Check the ignition switch, see if it is "touchy" and also check behind the interior fuse panel for damaged wiring (I remember a CEG'er had a notable short there) and behind the radio, especially if aftermarket radio.
 
Touchy is like, does the car keep chimeing when you take the key because the key cylinder is still kind of in.... The radio should be shutting on and off should be controled by the ignition (a.k.a. the key cyclinder) when you turn it to the accessory or on position... Do you have an after market deck? the radio fuse should be 34, at least for the constant memory... and the switched on off for it should be fuse 32... but that's for a 1999, yours I looked up and it didn't say which fuses, but that they was a constant 7.5amp fuse and switched 7.5amp fuse.... I don't know if they fuse numbers for 95 and 99 are the same, so 34 and 32 could be way wrong... Hope you have your manual for the car or that the fuse box is labeled....
 
i think i found the problem. The capacitor to my audio system was back feeding my system. The relay to the capacitor got fried and the capacitor came on and went of at random times. When the capacitor came on my cd player came on and made my keyless entry not work. When the capacitor went off the cd player went off and my keyless entry would work again. So now i need a new capacitor.
 
I hope you fixed it!

I hope you fixed it!

Leave it unhooked a while, keep an eye on the problem. What kind of capacitor has a relay? Mine (cheap) doesn't.
 
Yeah i did unhook the capacitor but not in time it killed the battery. I got it charged today and everything seems to be okay for now. I will see what happens when i get off work tonight if it is dead or not. The kind of capacitor i have is a 3.0 Farad royal blue rockford frostgate capacitor. It has a remote relay and no potection circuit. That's how it fried it got overloaded with to many volts than it can handle. I thought it was wierd myself when it said relay but that's what it said on the box. Hopefully i figured this all out because it is very fustrating.:mad:
 
Battery still dying?

Battery still dying?

After the capacitor problem I got my battery charged and everything seemed to be find but then once i went to work and came home and started my car it was hesitating but it did start. My keyless entry doesnt work. Any suggestions? :shrug:
 
Do you have a voltmeter? Check battery terminal voltage to see if your car is charging the battery while running (14-15 volts) or discharging (less than 12.6 volts). If it is discharging you may have a bad alternator or its related wiring. How old is the battery?
 
The keyless entry uses 2 constant powers and one swithced, there is a 20A door lock fuse, I think fuse 3, a 7.5A courtesy lamp fuse, Fuse 2, and Radio 1 Fuse 7.5A, fuse 10

20A - fuse 3
7.5A - fuse 2
7.5A - fuse 10

At least looking at this diagram, thats what I assume those numbers to be.... The 20A is a ORG wire that stays ORG, the 7.5A courtesy lamp is an ORG/YEL which switches to a ORG/WHT, and the radio is a BLU, that switches to a BLU/ORG, not sure where it changes wire colors, but that's what it lists.... I hope those fuse number are right... if they don't match up let me know....
 
Yep i put the volt meter on the terminals while car was running and reved the engine a lil and it was chraging. When i turned of the car everything was fine. But then i tried again later that night and it was dead. My keyless entry works when the battery has power. I just brought the car from another person. But it's a motorcraft battery with a sticker on it that has a purchase date of 12-16-06. This all started when i was giving my brother a few jumps last week because he had a simular problem. But he got his battery charged and everything was okay. Now it's happening to my car. It's starting to piss me off :mad:
 
Check the overhead dome lights are Off, very easy to leave one on. The battery is under warranty, maybe see if a store can load test it after it's charged with a batttery charger. It's possible you have something in your car drawing power more than it should when the key is off. Disconnect the battery, check for low ohms reading across the cables. If you find less than 300, A good place to start is disconnect any aftermarket lights, stereo, etc. Check for a radar detector, Ipod, phone, cigarette lighter that stays on. I once had a faulty power mirror switch in a Dodge kill the battery. I disconnected the battery, checked from positive to negative cables, found 30 ohms. Then I looked in the schematics for circuits that were "constant power" and I pulled and reinstalled fuses on at a time, found circuit, checked its schematic unplugged switch, felt lucky.
 
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I disconnected everything from the battery that doesn't belong. It's a motorcraft battery and it is under warranty but when I got it tested today the machine said it was a good battery. I will check for ohms. It all happened when i was checking my oil while it was raining sunday and has been the messed up every since. I also noticed that before this all happened my traction control and abs lights only came on once I passed 3000 RPM'S and now the are on even when i jus start my car. Could that be it? :shrug:
 
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ABS light should come on if there is a problem. Trac light unsure. See if any of those (or any other) lights are on with the car off.
 
Yeah I know my ABS system doesn't work nor the traction control but i knew that when i bought the car. Anyways nope neither lights stays on when the car is off. Now the keyless entry is acting up again. It only unlocks sometimes and locks only sometimes but the driver side door has to be open for the keyless entry to lock. I got new batteries. :shrug: But the actual power locks work fine ( For now) but i dont know where to go for this problem. I finally got the battery to hold charge. I got it charged by ford, cleaned the posts and terminals off with baking soda and water and drove it to work. ( My brother usually drives) and had no problems with the battery dying on me. Now it's the keyless entry. Any suggestions?:help:


By the way. Thanks for all the help you've been giving me. If there is something i can help you with be my guess.
 
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