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Anyone wanna help??

He should be all set with the PS pump and bracket now...he is using the 2.5L timing cover and Motor mount, so everything should bolt up fine...

That doesn't matter. The 2.5 cover has nothing to do with it.

The bracket bolts to the block itself and the holes are sized different.
 
That doesn't matter. The 2.5 cover has nothing to do with it.

The bracket bolts to the block itself and the holes are sized different.

Yes I did find that out but I am using the original mount by cutting off the pins on the bottom of the bolt holes. Did you have to get new bolts as well when you switched to the newer style mount? If so did you purchase from ford or locally?


At this point I'm starting to mount the accessories to the motor, alt. sensors, a/c compressor ect... I also found out my spare trans is missing a seal at the output shaft so I need to get one of those. I'm also cleaning the intake manifolds, upper and lower. Still have to put on the new oil pan too.
 
Did you have to get new bolts as well when you switched to the newer style mount? If so did you purchase from ford or locally?

You will need new bolts also. No one carried them locally. I went to specialty fastener shop that carried everything you could think of. I bought a few bolts from them that almost worked, but not quite. In the end, I got them from my local stealership but they messed up the order the first time and set me back about an extra week and a half.
 
That doesn't matter. The 2.5 cover has nothing to do with it.

The bracket bolts to the block itself and the holes are sized different.

Ok, like Roger said, we already cut the 2 pins that were at the bottom of the motor mount and were able to put 3 bolts into the mount, and we couldn't find a 4th one...
 
That's wierd. I remember the bolts being a totally different thread. :shrug:


could be but the left hand mount, from engine to passanger side bolts where not tapped on the block so I am guessing they tapped the holes to what ever the bolts they had where ...
 
could be but the left hand mount, from engine to passanger side bolts where not tapped on the block so I am guessing they tapped the holes to what ever the bolts they had where ...

We found some bolts that were long enough, and had the correct thread for those holes... They WERE tapped, just REALLY dirty! cleaned them out and you could see the threads!
 
You will need new bolts also. No one carried them locally. I went to specialty fastener shop that carried everything you could think of. I bought a few bolts from them that almost worked, but not quite. In the end, I got them from my local stealership but they messed up the order the first time and set me back about an extra week and a half.

Just in case.. Iwould like to put that fourth bolt in. What was the name of that shop that you tried to get yours from? You said they didn't have quite what you needed. What was it wrong threads or wrong length?
 
Just in case.. Iwould like to put that fourth bolt in. What was the name of that shop that you tried to get yours from? You said they didn't have quite what you needed. What was it wrong threads or wrong length?


Ro-Brand Products, Inc.
319 Cooke Street
Plainville, CT 06062

They had the right thread and length, but the threads did not follow high enough on the bolt. So I couldn't tighten down all the way. I ran out of thread.
 
So basically it was a shoulder type of bolt that wasn't threaded up to the top. Would a spacer or stack of washers under the head take up the extra? I was just in Plainville today on my way to service training in Southington. Sucks that I didn't check here in the am. I guess I'll try to get down there next week.
 
So basically it was a shoulder type of bolt that wasn't threaded up to the top. Would a spacer or stack of washers under the head take up the extra? I was just in Plainville today on my way to service training in Southington. Sucks that I didn't check here in the am. I guess I'll try to get down there next week.

A large enough spacer would work fine, but washers wouldn't. It would take a lot to stack up.
 
well in case anyone was wondering the car started up today. Roger had to go to work so we couldn't button everything up completely.

Off idle the car runs great .... but at idle the engine is shaking alot. we think that the clutch needs to be bleed more as with the engine off it will shift into gear but not when its running ... hopefully thats the issue. We should find out maybe later tonight but most likely tomorrow.
 
It's Alive!

It's Alive!

Well I've got it running. I finished it up this AM and It runs ok but at low idle it runs rough. The power difference is incredible. If anyone has some ideas as to why it idles rough please chime in.

I would also like to thank Brian and Greg for all the great help the the provided. I don't think I could have done it without them, both for their advice and different point of views and for their extra sets of arms and hands.


Thanks Guys.
 
glad I could help, I just wanta drive it after the clutch is broken in ... we can also data log to see what is up sometime this week if you like

oh and btw greg is the man
 
Maybe it's idling rough because of the tune? (Or non tune for that matter)


that is an option but I don't see how the computer would know the displacment is different other then the higher compression everything the computer reads to know what is goin on is the same and working to the best of our knowledge. It still could be the plug wires even though they are on correct ...
 
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