• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Few Questions, IMRC trouble shooting.

T

TourEnvy

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
2,725
Location
Las Vegas , NV
I have a 2000 SVT w/ 60K, I was pulling a P1518 when I bought, and I couldnt see any movement in the secondaries when i worked the throttle accordingly (past 3500 RPM). So while i was at the junk yard, i said hell "lets pull a IMRC to swap." So, $20 bucks later I left with a box and cut cord. So last night I got home and swaped the box out using the cable that was in the car (not a to bad of job). Now I didnt disconnect the battery, just did the plug. whil I had the cable disconnected i had sure i worked the secondaries and not broken or frayed. After I got it back together I started the car and worked the throttle initially and there was movement in the connecting linkage, assuming it was working. However after it ran for a little bit more, the idle dropped, the linkage moved and I could not get it to move anymore by working the throttle.

This morning I went out and disconnected the positive side of the battery for about 15 min. put it back on and started it up no cel, but also no secondary movement. after another start it came on.

Did i reset the PCM correctly? Also what are the chances this IMRC is doing the same thing as my old one or is there anothor contributing factor creating th IMRC to work similar. Also If some could help me out to tell me where the front linkage should be when the secondaries are closed and open that would be helpful ei. "the cable pulls to keep the secondaries open, therefore moving the frontal linkage backwards". Also can some one confirm how to reset the PCM "fuse 6 and 11"? thank you. I may think of more questions. Thanks
 
Resetting pcm is fuses #4 and #11. Also, this sounds exactly like what mine did about four months ago. I tried everything but swapping out the cable itself. And I'll be damned if that cable didn't end up being broken. Try replacing a whole unit, cable and all. It's not too hard, and I believe someone did a write up on how they did it. That should do the trick.
 
CLASSVT said:
Resetting pcm is fuses #4 and #11. Also, this sounds exactly like what mine did about four months ago. I tried everything but swapping out the cable itself. And I'll be damned if that cable didn't end up being broken. Try replacing a whole unit, cable and all. It's not too hard, and I believe someone did a write up on how they did it. That should do the trick.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I did mention that I could move the cable by pullng on it manually with my hand and could see the front linkage move (if i looked down in front of the TB) so that why I dont think that its the cable. Also the IMRC initially moved the linkage on start up. I have been planning on buying a bvrand new box and cable even before i put the junkard one in. I just dont want to be missing something and have this same thing happen again.

FWIW it was out of a Pre 98 Mystique with a 2.5L 130K
 
Last edited:
Yeah I see what you're saying. The cable on mine didn't break all the way for a few weeks, and I could move the linkage a with my cable as well. Then it snapped. The IMRC that I replaced mine with was donated by a fellow CEG'er, and was used as can be. I wouldn't spend the $$ on a brand new one if you can find a whole used one.
 
did you have to reset your PCM or did the CEL just go away? Does anyone happen to know if the IMRC controls both the opening and the closing of the secondaries or just one or the other? If so I assume it works in conjunction with a spring on the rod end either keeping them open or keeping them closed. Can someone advise...
 
The secondaries (on anything other than a 95, vacuum operated unit) are held CLOSED via springs on the LIM rod itself. (95's are vacuum operated and default to OPEN with no vacuum, and are PULLED closed as vacuum is created)

Your linkage should remain closed at all times (ie, the linkage/rod at the LIM should be relaxed and NOT pulled towards the firewall. Once you are above ~3750 (or ~3200 WOT ONLY) the linkage should be opened by a force on the cable pulling towards the firewall, and swiveling the linkage open. The first linkage should thus pull a second linkage (the other half/front half of the LIM) because it is attached by a copper connecting rod.

Does that help?
 
Thanks Ray, I found similar explanation, but this seem much clearer. Now if the IMRC tightens up upon start up and has no further action than it it persumed to be "stuck open" . Is there any other out side cause that would cause the IMRC to act this way other then itself ei. PCM? Right now it sound as if my old box and the junkyard box is performing the same way. Do you think it is just bad luck?


Alright now im been arguing with my dad about if the motor works in reverse or not,say to close the secondaries. I told him that the torsen springs on the rod end do that but he said that the gearing is so low in the box that i would have enough torsen to pull the wire back through to close the plates. Ca anyone confirm? He seems to believe that there is problem with the signal that works the motor in reverse. I would like to proven wrong lol
 
Last edited:
Well I let the PCM reset over night pulling fuse 6 and fuse 11 (fuse 4 was non-existent) today I started it up and samething happened, and still pulling a P1518. Looks like I will be getting a brand new box. Now the IMRC works independently of itself and I shouldnt be concerned that the PCM is sending the wrong signal?
 
Yes, and no.

Well, that is to say: the IMRC does NOT work independently.. It receives the signal from the PCM, but no.. you should not worry about the PCM at this time.

As failure prone as these boxes are (due to their location they are subjected to both extreme heat [above the valve cover and front exhaust manifold] and vibration [directly bolted to the metal valvecover itself], both of which wreak havoc on electronics.)

If you truly wanted to VERIFY it was the box before replacing, you could make sure the signal coming IN TO the IMRC wasn't pegged on when it shouldn't be. It is technically possible that the IMRC is doing its job perfectly, and only opening because it is being told to do so. I HIGHLY doubt this, though.
 
Last edited:
Okay, I assume I would see more problems if that was the case Im going to order in a new box on Monday, ill keep ya updated.
 
Third time isnt the charm!

Third time isnt the charm!

Well, I ended up getting another used box from a great CEGer, thanks mike. I Installed it today with no hitch and cleared the PCM. Started it up, runs great, working the throttle alls good the secondaries are opening THEN i let it idle for 3 secs and the RPM drops and the Linkage moves forward and the they are stuck open AGAIN and dont come back. Check engine light comes on after next start up. Come on I have had Three IMRC boxes in this thing and all are having the same symptoms. I really dont think it worth me getting a brand new one , is it? Should I start exploring other options? Please Help.
 
I would check the wires to make sure that no wires are touching each other or a ground. Also, I would check to see if the signal to pull the cable is on all the time, as Ray suggested. Remove the connector and probe with a volt meter. I do not know which wire is for what, but I'm sure the old forums have the answer. I really would wait on that new box until you have tried every thing you can to figure this problem out.
 
Im looking into checking the signals coming into the IMRC, I havent comeup with any info on the wires, is it just me or the IMRC is not even mentioned in the Hanyes manual or noted in the scimatics (sp). :shrug:
 
I am having the exact same problems with my 98 CSVT. Got a new IMRC from Ford and same thing happened. Start the car, about 10 sec later the IMRC activates and thats it, just stays open. I've checked wiring to the pcm one at a time and none are grounded of shorting to a wire on the same circuit. I still have to check all the inputs to the pcm, but if its not that then I guess I'm left with pcm which I'm not too happy about. Also with a scanner I tried to do a KOEO and KOER test and test would not complete, came up with the P1518 code.
 
I've been battling this problem for a LONG time now. I've yet to find the problem.

I've replaced everything except the fuel injector harness and main harness.
 
Well what I face is that my car wont pass inspection with it pulling a code. I need this fixed and contemplating taking it to the dealership if I cant figure it out.

svt pimp- can you give me some info on what wires to check coming out of the IMRC and what reading i should get? I found your old post. is it the black/ red and black/blue reading of 0? if there is a reading then its grounded somewhere?

I also found MastaMoons post reguarding is wiring problems too, he mention checking the reading between the connection on the left side and the IMRC. top plug, top wire? I know very little about Electrictronics, Im thinking i might have get a digital voltmeter for this project rather than my analog one, do you agree?

Money pit :rolleyes:
 
Can anyone help with a diagram or information reguarding the signals sent to and from the IMRC. ie wire color/ voltage at idle and acctuated (sp)
 
Thanks to 98Mystique, I was able to get some info on wiring going to and from the IMRC. I did the test stated and came up with this.

Test Post:
Connector disconnected from IMRC box.

Key on, measure as follows:
pin 2(GN/W) +12volts to ground(already confirmed)
pin 1(BK/W) measure volts to ground, should be nil.
pin 3(BK/R) measure volts to ground, should be nil.

Provided nil readings obtained then with
key off, measure as follows:
pin 1(BK/W) measure resistance to ground, should be nil.
pin 3(BK/R) measure resistance to ground, should be high.


If pin 3 has volts post again.
If pin 3 has nil volts and nil resistance then check for ground fault along BK/R wire.
Click to expand...


My results:

Key on: (Tested same as running engine with Plug disconnected)

1 Ground: 0 Volts
2 Power: 12 Volts
3 PCM Input: 0 Volts
4 Return Signal: 0 Volts
5 IMRC: 5 Volts
6 Not Used

Key off: (Excuse me if I translated this wrong)

1 Ground: 2 x10 ohms
2 Power: 2 x10 ohms
3 PCM Input: 5.2 x10 ohms
4 Return Signal: 1.9 x10 ohms
5 IMRC: 2.2 x10 ohms
6 Not Used

I cant make sense of this because im not working with a whole lot of info nor knowledge, Hopefully someone can.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top