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Does this look bad to you?

G

getsum111

Yes I am a Pirate, 200 years too late.
Joined
Apr 5, 2005
Messages
4,188
Location
Pillaging in Freedom, PA.
Hello all. I know you can't always judge a book by it's cover, but I can't afford to buy a new fuel pump if mine's not bad. I tested the pressure at idle, and it was ok, but I have a miss and have replaced everything but the fuel pump w/o success. Take a look @ these and tell me what you think.

fuel2mh6.jpg


fuel1cd7.jpg


And how can I remove the "sock"? Do I just rip it off, I can't tell how it's attatched to the pump, it kinda looks permanant? Any help would eb appreciated.
 
How is anyone supposed to know?!!!!!! I know I've never seen a sock filter on a Contour like that. Return or returnless.
 
Return system. To me, it didn't look as bad as I expected, but I guess it could be worn inside the pump itself. Opinions? Get a new pump, or keep checking other stuff?
 
the filter looks fine. Most times though, on stock pumps, the filter is not meant to come off. However, on repacement pumps, the filter may come in the box seperate from the pump but it is designed so that once it is on, it stays on.

There are several ways to check for the pump being the failure. Voltage in and out, fuel pressure measured on the system and probably the most telling is, Can you hear it running when you turn the key on but not all the over to start.

Check out you haynes manual under fuel and exhaust and it will give you all of the operating parameter for the fuel pump and will also tell you how to properly diagnose the system.


If you do need a fuel pump and have plans for anything done to your engine later, I suggest a Walbro 255LPH unit. They can be had for about $100
 
That's my trouble. The pump turns on when I turn the key. When we tested the pressure on the Schrader valve, it was ok, around 45psi IIRC. Is it possible for teh pump to read OK at idle, but not under load? I don't have a pressure guage that I can connect while driving. My uncle loaned me a digital one, but there was no way to drive with it on due to the design of the guage.
 
i know when we did kristens pump it would idle fine and run on but hesitate. but my sock was real dirty!! i mean almost black. think we got bad gas somewhere. just seems like the same fuel problem we had. and crap i paid 253 and some change for my pump. but that was from the stealership butler county ford.
 
I know it's simple and I don't think it would cause a miss, but you've changed the fuel filter, right...?
 
sometimes when i shift at wot i have a 2 second stutter, i will be replacing my fuel pump tommorow with a fsvt motor, and new updated stock returnless housing. nobody can figure my problem out but my first pump was replaced at 20000 miles, so im pretty sure its my problem too, i have also replaced alot on my engine and fuel filters and uim cleaning.
 
I assume you have also checked compression, injector pulse, the coil, plugs, wires even if they are new they could have problems. Are you getting a random misfire or consistently from the same bank of cylinders? Does it cause the check engine light to flash?
 
I'm getting a random misfire under load. The CL does flash, I don't have means to check compression. I have replaced the injectors, PCM, wires, plugs, CKP sensor. WHat else could cause the random misfire?
 
You sure it's a missfire? You say the CL lights, can you drop the code while riding.
 
The code is P0300, Random misfire. I've already replaced coil, wires, plugs, CKP sensore, tested the TPS, CPS, swapped PCM's. The misfiree clogged the precats, so I gutted them, awaiting MSDS, and disconnected the exhuast before the main cat to eliminate that as the problem. I also swapped out injectors, done several UIM/LIM cleanings, and checked the wiring for as much as I could find. Just don't know what to do next.
 
I had a similar problem, although yours may be different (I didn't have CEL blink) I replaced the coil pack,plugs, wires and later had a moderate bucking at 2200 rpm if I gave it throttle under light load 35-40 mph in 3rd or 4th gear, can't remember. I found the #2 (center rear) plug had carbon tracks on the insulator (ceramic part). Looks like gray pencil lines that don't rub off. Use a clean socket to install the new plug, and clean silicone grease in the rubber boot, after cleaning it out. Also, make sure the boots are snapped on, easier said than done. Check coil mounting and ground strap. One last thing, check that you didn't cross wires, that changes firing order and misfires badly.

From: Tony2005
Firewall side
4- 6 -5 <--coil pack
3-2-1

1-2-3 <--engine
4-5-6
Radiator side

Spark Plug gap 0.054 inch
 
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Im sceeeeered! If this doesn't do it, my wife may bury me, the car, the MSDS, the new wires, plugs, CKP sensor all in a big hole.:help: :laugh: Seriously, that's what I'm thinkin' Todd. I mean, crap, it's the only thing I didn't change, right? What else causes a random/multiple misfire? I know the misfire causes the precats to die. I'm gonna double check my plugs tonight, lookin' for any carbon tracks. Then I guess order a new fuel pump, gulp! Pray for me.
 
Clogged cats can cause a misfire. If you didn't gut them out all the way, the material may be blocking it. This causes more than acceptable backpressure and misfiring.

Fouled O2 sensors can also cause that as well. They can lean out the system too much or give off system lean error codes.

When you did your fuel pressure check, did you cycle the pump on and off several times and record the highest #? This will give you a good average. Most fuel injected systems run about 55 - 60 PSI at the Schrader valve.

Under load, the pressure does not change. The fuel system stays the same. The volume that flows will change but the pressure doesn't.
 
Hmmmm. Yes, I gutted them both completly. I replaced the rear upper O2 sensor as I got a code for it back in Nov. Yes, we cycled the fuel pump several times, so this means that the pump shuld still be OK since the readings were in the acceptable range?

I don't have MIL eliminators on the precats yet (waiting for the MSDS.) But that shouldn't cause a misfire, should it? I thought it would just throw a code for the lower O2 sensors.
 
After the laundry list of parts that you have replaced. Get a guage and check compression! If the cams are out of time you will get a random misfire.
 
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