96BlackSE
CEG'er
Hopefully this will help some people looking to do a complete oval port swap...
Starting off with the Escape engines
-If you start off with an Escape engine you will need an oval port plastic Taurus UIM with the Taurus TB bracket
Starting off with the Taurus Engines
-If you start off with the Taurus engines you will need to get a new updated escape oil pan, dipstick and oil pick up tube, or you may use the stock oil pan from your 2.5L along with the dipstick and oil pick up tube... There have been some changes to the design of the oilpan's so you are better off getting the newer ones
-You will also have to swap over the timing covers and the crank pulley from the 2.5 since the Taurus ones will not work...
-I prefer to use the Escape fuel rail since it’s much bigger than the Taurus one, so if you decide to go with a Taurus engine you might want to grab an Escape fuel rail, it also makes the modification a little bit simpler...
-The top passenger side engine mount has to be fitted onto the Taurus engine as well. Again, you can either use the one off of the 2.5 and grinded it up so it fits onto the engine with out taking the heads off or buy a new one which will need grinding as well… (the newer ones will need a bit less grinding) Also depending on the year of the engine there are 2 different sizes bolts which hold the mount in place, make sure you use the proper ones
If you want to use SVT cams on both engines
-If you are going to use the SVT cams you need to either use all the existing timing components from the 2.5 block or buy new proper timing equipment which consists of the crank sprocket, tensioners, guides and chains…
You cannot mix and match any of the older and newer equipment… “timing gears went from a 36-tooth camshaft gear to a 42-tooth camshaft gear and were used in the Escape/Tribute all the way through 2005”
Same for Taurus and Escape Engines
-If you are planning on keeping EGR you need to modify the tube for it to fit
-Trim the 2 brackets off the block for the alternator bracket (take your alternator bracket off of the 2.5 and try to bolt it up to the 3.0 then you will see where you have to do a little trimming)
-Take out the pilot bearing off the crankshaft. This can also be cut flush. While cutting make sure you protect the metal shavings from getting to the rear crank seal, this can be done by masking it off and cleaning after the cutting is done
-Extend the wires for the EGR solenoid and TPS sensors... If you decide to delete the EGR you can delete the solenoid as well since it won’t be needed. You will just have to run the small vacuum lines for the fuel pressure regulator, HVAC, and EVAP.
-Enlarge the hole for the throttle cable to fit the throttle linkage, you will see once you try to put the end of the throttle cable on to the throttle body
-Modify the Taurus TB bracket so you can use the contour cable, this is pretty simple once you have the parts on hand
- If you have a return fuel system, run the return line for the fuel rail, make sure you get it welded up by an experienced welder and pressure test it before driving around with it
-You will need to run the oval port injectors since the spray pattern between the oval port and split port injectors are different for this you would either have to wire in the EV6 injector connectors or you can buy adaptors from Ford Racing or Fiveomotorsport’s http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp
-Depending on the year of your vehicle and the 3.0 engine you are putting in you might have to change plugs for the wiring for the knock sensor and oil pressure sensor. Use the knock sensor that came with your 3.0.
You car will need a tune to compensate for the lack of IMRC, EGR if removed and the oval port injectors.
Starting off with the Escape engines
-If you start off with an Escape engine you will need an oval port plastic Taurus UIM with the Taurus TB bracket
Starting off with the Taurus Engines
-If you start off with the Taurus engines you will need to get a new updated escape oil pan, dipstick and oil pick up tube, or you may use the stock oil pan from your 2.5L along with the dipstick and oil pick up tube... There have been some changes to the design of the oilpan's so you are better off getting the newer ones
-You will also have to swap over the timing covers and the crank pulley from the 2.5 since the Taurus ones will not work...
-I prefer to use the Escape fuel rail since it’s much bigger than the Taurus one, so if you decide to go with a Taurus engine you might want to grab an Escape fuel rail, it also makes the modification a little bit simpler...
-The top passenger side engine mount has to be fitted onto the Taurus engine as well. Again, you can either use the one off of the 2.5 and grinded it up so it fits onto the engine with out taking the heads off or buy a new one which will need grinding as well… (the newer ones will need a bit less grinding) Also depending on the year of the engine there are 2 different sizes bolts which hold the mount in place, make sure you use the proper ones
If you want to use SVT cams on both engines
-If you are going to use the SVT cams you need to either use all the existing timing components from the 2.5 block or buy new proper timing equipment which consists of the crank sprocket, tensioners, guides and chains…
You cannot mix and match any of the older and newer equipment… “timing gears went from a 36-tooth camshaft gear to a 42-tooth camshaft gear and were used in the Escape/Tribute all the way through 2005”
Same for Taurus and Escape Engines
-If you are planning on keeping EGR you need to modify the tube for it to fit
-Trim the 2 brackets off the block for the alternator bracket (take your alternator bracket off of the 2.5 and try to bolt it up to the 3.0 then you will see where you have to do a little trimming)
-Take out the pilot bearing off the crankshaft. This can also be cut flush. While cutting make sure you protect the metal shavings from getting to the rear crank seal, this can be done by masking it off and cleaning after the cutting is done
-Extend the wires for the EGR solenoid and TPS sensors... If you decide to delete the EGR you can delete the solenoid as well since it won’t be needed. You will just have to run the small vacuum lines for the fuel pressure regulator, HVAC, and EVAP.
-Enlarge the hole for the throttle cable to fit the throttle linkage, you will see once you try to put the end of the throttle cable on to the throttle body
-Modify the Taurus TB bracket so you can use the contour cable, this is pretty simple once you have the parts on hand
- If you have a return fuel system, run the return line for the fuel rail, make sure you get it welded up by an experienced welder and pressure test it before driving around with it
-You will need to run the oval port injectors since the spray pattern between the oval port and split port injectors are different for this you would either have to wire in the EV6 injector connectors or you can buy adaptors from Ford Racing or Fiveomotorsport’s http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/Injector_CONNECT.asp
-Depending on the year of your vehicle and the 3.0 engine you are putting in you might have to change plugs for the wiring for the knock sensor and oil pressure sensor. Use the knock sensor that came with your 3.0.
You car will need a tune to compensate for the lack of IMRC, EGR if removed and the oval port injectors.
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