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Another 3L project

6

69Boss302

Has mile high skills
Joined
Dec 26, 2001
Messages
2,630
Location
St.George, SC
So with the almost show season ready SVT out for probably most of the summer, I have become tired of seeing my E0 sitting on jackstands with it's nose in the air. It is finally time to do something about it.

Today I found an 04 Taurus 3L with 23,000 for $500. I've been hoping to find an Escape motor but those are still too high priced. Don't the junkyards realize it's the same damned motor?

Today also finds me still confused about the 3L stuff as ever. After having read and followed along almost every 3L post over the last few years, I feel no smarter.

The plan is to do a straight 3L swap because, well, I don't want to swap stuff too much. And I don't have the SVT cams anymore. The rest seems fairly easy. Unplug this, unscrew that, use new parts here, here and here and put it all back together.

The trans will be gone through as well and hope to include a Torsen in its future.

Did I miss anything?
 
In your ever vague rundown of ' unplug this, unscrew that' you did not miss anything. Lmao

what are you still confused about?
 
there is just to much he said, she said stuff to filter through over the years. By now it should be down to a science and readily available. It's the same thing so many have said before me.

But the 2 biggest questions of the moment is can I 3L heads with 2.5 valve cover LIM/UIM, etc without changing anything underneath the valve covers?

But more importantly, beer count.


EDIT: Wait, is that what everyone is talking about port matching and crap? To allow the UIM/LIM to bolt up and breathe directly to the 3L?
 
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yes. If you want to use the 2.5 LIM/UIM you will need to port match the intake ports between the 2.5 LIm and the 3L heads. A straight swap would be using the entire 3L engine.
 
69Boss302 said:
The plan is to do a straight 3L swap because, well, I don't want to swap stuff too much. And I don't have the SVT cams anymore. The rest seems fairly easy. Unplug this, unscrew that, use new parts here, here and here and put it all back together.
Click to expand...

Don't forget cut the crap out of this, grind this, extend this wire, port this, weld this, drill this, tap this, etc (more simple straight forward stuff).
 
Blackcoog said:
Don't forget cut the crap out of this, grind this, extend this wire, port this, weld this, drill this, tap this, etc (more simple straight forward stuff).
Click to expand...

Cut off 2 ears (2 minutes)
Grind what? I never grinded anything.
Extend this wire - I never had to extend any wires.
Port this - This part sucks, porting the intake ports suck! (Time consuming)
Weld this - I didn't have to weld anything, but if you choose that route vs. JBWeld I spose you can add this.
Drill & Tap - some people have to do it for the knock sensor, on my 2000 I didn't have to.

In all honestly, It's not that difficult to do. Most of the processes are disassemble, and reassemble or large components that only go together 1 way. You should be able to handle it if you have a little better than basic car knowledge.

-Edit-

Oh, and Blackcoog, I didn't respond to like, argue what your saying. I'm just letting the original poster know that those situations dont apply in all builds, and that there isn't that much to them.
 
Engine mount between heads needs grinding/cutting along with crank bushing and the 2.5L oil pickup tube (if not using an escape motor).

If you go with a full 3L with 3L intakes you need to extend a few connectors that are just shy of reaching.
 
Blackcoog said:
Engine mount between heads needs grinding/cutting along with crank bushing and the 2.5L oil pickup tube (if not using an escape motor).

If you go with a full 3L with 3L intakes you need to extend a few connectors that are just shy of reaching.
Click to expand...


Are you talking about the stock 2.5 motor mounts? Or the Cougar mounts that are listed in the old forums FAQ?

And I've never seen anythign about the crank bushing. Please explain or point me in the right direction?
 
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69Boss302 said:
read through it and that is for port matching the the 2.5 LIM to the 3L heads, yes?
Click to expand...

The answer is yes, they can also be used to avoid JB Weld and TIG welding. Here is some more information.
Pics of my Oval port heads after grinding
Intake Plates, Install Pics


69Boss302 said:
Are you talking about the stock 2.5 motor mounts? Or the Cougar mounts that are listed in the old forums FAQ?
Click to expand...

I used the Contour motor mount. I did not grind because I took the heads off. I did have to drill and tap the bolt holes to use the 10mm contour bolts. I guess the Cougar mount uses bolts that fit the 3L block. You have to grind it to fit it between the heads - unless you remove one of the heads. Removing the heads requires new head gaskets and head bolts (they are torque to yeld).
 
is there a known difference between the years on the TTY head bolts as far as ft lbs and such? Don't want to waste any more time than I already have. The motor I'm picking up is an 04 Taurus.
 
I finally got around to getting everything off the motor last night.

P1000084-1.jpg


P1000268.jpg



The bolts I got to mount the engine to the stand are too long so it still hangs on the hoist. That will be fixed today though but still what a pain it is to the engine mounted up by yourself.


The next things to do are get the fuel rails brazed, order some ST220 valve springs, oil analysis and read up on how to install cams.
 
69Boss302 said:
The next things to do are get the fuel rails brazed, order some ST220 valve springs, oil analysis and read up on how to install cams.
Click to expand...

Dont braze the fuel rails WELD them and get them pressure tested first! Dont bother with the ST220 valve springs when I looked at getting them I was told they are the same as the 3L ones. There is actually a thread on it here on CEG somewhere was well :). For the fuel rail I would contact Nima (96BlackSE) his fuel rails are aweosme and they get pressure tested at double the pressure our fuel rails produce and they hold up to that so I know it's an ok fuel rail to use. Not to mention the guy who builds them is an welder on tankers :D.

Finally good luck with the 3L and getting the car back on the road soon :).

Aaron
 
I was going to have BlackCoog take care of the fuel rail for me. Any difference between him and Nima?



Thanks for the good luck, kinda going to need it. The car has been off the road now for almost a year, I think. I know it sat for awhile before I finally got it and I've had it for about 5 months now. But good news is that I received the title for it yesterday so now she is officially mine.
 
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I know Nimas has like 30,000km on it and the guy that does it has welding certifications coming out the you know what lol. The deal breaker for me was the fact he works on tankers and pressure tests the line at double our pressure.

Aaron
 
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