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Pics of my Oval port heads after grinding

The plates are 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch thick. I was trying to stay close to stock height on the Intake manifold. A thicker plate would not change the angle of the injector, but it would help the fuel get further from the wall before the head port started curving. Then you might run into the issue of the fuel hitting the other side of the port. In the stock configuration the injector points pretty straight at the valve.
 
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The plates are 1/16th to an 1/8th of an inch thick. I was trying to stay close to stock height on the Intake manifold. A thicker plate would not change the angle of the injector, but it would help the fuel get further from the wall before the head port started curving. Then you might run into the issue of the fuel hitting the other side of the port. In the stock configuration the injector points pretty straight at the valve.

All of this to counteract what....the "myriad of injector related problems" we've seen so far? :help:

I can understand if you want a uniform plate shape for the ports and to cover the center injector port. In this case you could adhere the plate to the head ports with RTV as your gasket and seal it down.
But if you ask me, the diagram I posted up showing how to make a pouch to hold the epoxy-weld until it cures is easy simple and effective. Then you can touch up the epoxy-weld sections with your sander at the same time and everything is done.
All this talk of turbulence due to the plate (not likely) etc. is just a waste.
 
All of this to counteract what....the "myriad of injector related problems" we've seen so far? :help:

I can understand if you want a uniform plate shape for the ports and to cover the center injector port. In this case you could adhere the plate to the head ports with RTV as your gasket and seal it down.
But if you ask me, the diagram I posted up showing how to make a pouch to hold the epoxy-weld until it cures is easy simple and effective. Then you can touch up the epoxy-weld sections with your sander at the same time and everything is done.
All this talk of turbulence due to the plate (not likely) etc. is just a waste.

the reason i am so for the plate is just the fear of the consistant hot and cold cycles eventually causing the filling epoxy to break away from the head, causing a massive vacuum leak and to have epoxy go into the cylinder

and i don't know that it has ever happened but i would rather it not happen to me
 
All of this to counteract what....the "myriad of injector related problems" we've seen so far? :help:

All this talk of turbulence due to the plate (not likely) etc. is just a waste.

Warmonger - Thanks for the input. I do not quite understand what you were asking in the first question, but I am not trying to change injector position. That would take a lot of engineering and I do not think a plate could fix it. That would have to be left up to Direct injection.

Ok - no more talk about turbulence.

This project started life as a way to help people easily port their heads. Porting is intimidating, especially for someone that has not done it before. These templates give a way to just jump in and be done in a couple hours instead of a day or day and a half later.

I have the templates and could sell them individually or in a set of three (one for porting and two for installation as a block of plate). I don't think I am supposed to put pricing in the forum so PM me if you are interested. Right now you will have to use RTV to seal one or both sides of the plate.
 
Warmonger - Thanks for the input. I do not quite understand what you were asking in the first question, but I am not trying to change injector position. That would take a lot of engineering and I do not think a plate could fix it. That would have to be left up to Direct injection.

Ok - no more talk about turbulence.

This project started life as a way to help people easily port their heads. Porting is intimidating, especially for someone that has not done it before. These templates give a way to just jump in and be done in a couple hours instead of a day or day and a half later.

I have the templates and could sell them individually or in a set of three (one for porting and two for installation as a block of plate). I don't think I am supposed to put pricing in the forum so PM me if you are interested. Right now you will have to use RTV to seal one or both sides of the plate.


you should only have to RTV them to the heads,, on the origional plates the stock lower gasket worked great,, you just had to cut off the little line-up dowels on the bottom of the gasket.,, i was fitting everything to make sure you could use stock bolts and i was making sure i had enough material removed for injector operation.
 
well on my car it is going to be in this order from bottom to top,, Head, silicone, plate, stock lower gasket, lower intake stock upper gasket, upper intake.

Bugzuki is working on a gasket that would go between the head and the plate. but since i am getting some of the first ones silicone will work great for me:laugh:


OK, forgive my ignorance but I geuss I'm just wondering why you would go with two gaskets. Is there an advantage or disadvantage to that vs using the RTV?
 
No, there is not a real advantage except for ease of installation. RTV can be messy, but it is a hidden area.
 
Warmonger - Thanks for the input. I do not quite understand what you were asking in the first question, but I am not trying to change injector position. That would take a lot of engineering and I do not think a plate could fix it. That would have to be left up to Direct injection.

Ok - no more talk about turbulence.

This project started life as a way to help people easily port their heads. Porting is intimidating, especially for someone that has not done it before. These templates give a way to just jump in and be done in a couple hours instead of a day or day and a half later.

I have the templates and could sell them individually or in a set of three (one for porting and two for installation as a block of plate). I don't think I am supposed to put pricing in the forum so PM me if you are interested. Right now you will have to use RTV to seal one or both sides of the plate.



Fair enough. My first question was rhetorical and with sarcasm. I was just pointing out that we have not had fuel problems on hybrids ever, despite the injector placement. Not trying to be mean or disrespectful but I think the merrits of your plates are good enough to stand on their own without any additional 'debateable' benefits.
Namely: ease of porting, easier to seal the manifold to the head. Both good points.

On the other hand:
-epoxy weld on properly prepared heads has not broken and the longest running record on multiple vehicles has to be since 2003. This is a pretty good track record. The only incident I know of was on a poorly prepped cougar 3L where the guy's epoxy broke off and was sucked in just recently.

- Porting is still easy without the templates. Take the stock gasket, cut the alignment tabs, stick on the heads. trace out the inside with a marker, cut to match.

-Epoxy sealing is pretty consistent if the "pouches" made of tape are put on the same along each cylinder. Again, I refer to the diagram I put up a long time ago to try to make it easier for people to do this mod.
***However, the plates SHOULD make it even easier if you make them wide enough to seal the whole head port WITHOUT epoxyweld. They can completely cover the ovalport head after porting and be sealed easily with RTV ultra black. Then from that point on you can slap on the stock gaskets. You can even pre-drill the alignment tabs in your plates to make it "Mo Betta"!

- Aluminum welding and porting is obviously the premier way to do it but requires lots of time, more money and more porting. Heads probably will have to come off unless you take the whole engine to the welder. Also unnecessary for a successful hybrid; though maybe a smart move if you are pulling your whole engine apart during a rebuild. Weigh your options.

I put all this out so that people don't have any misconceptions about the process. I think that for those less mechanically inclined that the plates are an ideal way to do it to ensure best sealing and save time. If I had to do another one and the plates were cheap and readily available from you...I'd probably buy them. :cool:
 
Thanks for the clarification.

I will look into drilling the alignment holes, but that would also need a hole drilled into the head. The alignment part on the gasket is quite long.

I tried making the tape pouches, but I probably used the wrong kind of tape. They kind of sagged. I found that JB Stickweld work nice. It is the kind of JB weld that you mix in you fingers then it makes a playdoe consistency.

I drilled some small holes to help secure the JB weld.

Edited * Moved pricing to the Classified Section under Performance*
3L/SVT LIM Plates

I have plenty available.

Here are some pictures of the plate on the head

Plate_on_Head_1.jpg

Port with the porting mostly complete.

Plate_on_Head_2.jpg

Blurry Picture

Plate_on_Head_3.jpg

Porting not started.
 
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Bugzuki, don't drill the alignment holes,, look at where they are,, since i have been playing with the origional plates i know this is not a good idea,, for starters, the alignment holes would go right into the old injector valley that we are trying to cover, and i am sure there is no sealing surface on the gasket around those pins so you maybe opening yourself for a vac leak right there. that is just my 2 cents,, i fitted the whole thing with the origional plates and the dowels cut off the gaskets and it fit fine,, you don't really need the dowels on the gasket anyway
 
- Aluminum welding and porting is obviously the premier way to do it but requires lots of time, more money and more porting. Heads probably will have to come off unless you take the whole engine to the welder. Also unnecessary for a successful hybrid; though maybe a smart move if you are pulling your whole engine apart during a rebuild. Weigh your options.

Thank you Tom for confirming what I've said all along. My first 3.0 oval port heads were done with JB Weld. My second set will be welded.

The other point to be considered here is that the plates s/b thin enough so that the EGR valve will still line up with the UIM. There is a small amount of play in the tube but loosening the nut on the header/precat fitting can be a real PITA due to clearance.
 
the alignment holes would go right into the old injector valley that we are trying to cover

Thanks for reminding me where those pins are. I did not have time to look last night, and could not remember the exact conflict.

I will leave the alignment holes out. The plates are already made, so I would have had to drill them by hand, anyways.
 
The other point to be considered here is that the plates s/b thin enough so that the EGR valve will still line up with the UIM. There is a small amount of play in the tube but loosening the nut on the header/precat fitting can be a real PITA due to clearance.

i will let you know how that goes in the next couple days.
 
Wish you had these before I started porting. Oh well, I think mine are turning out decent. Maybe I'll put a couple pics of them up. I do still have some porting to do though. I'll definitely want a set of these plates.
 
1. Not everybody is going to pull the heads on their oval port engines, or have a machine shop nearby they can use

This is what makes JB Weld a viable option for people. And with these plates, there is a quick and easy alternative to JB Weld for those people that aren't good at making masking tape pockets on the heads.:laugh:

If I was going to port another 3L without replacing the head gaskets, I would probably buy these plates.
 
i am in for a set as long as the egr tube lines up ok , although i am sure that little bit shouldnt make it too hard to line things up
 
Bugzuki, don't drill the alignment holes,, look at where they are,, since i have been playing with the origional plates i know this is not a good idea,, for starters, the alignment holes would go right into the old injector valley that we are trying to cover, and i am sure there is no sealing surface on the gasket around those pins so you maybe opening yourself for a vac leak right there. that is just my 2 cents,, i fitted the whole thing with the origional plates and the dowels cut off the gaskets and it fit fine,, you don't really need the dowels on the gasket anyway

If you fill the old valley with the epoxyweld then it shouldn't matter, especially if sealed withRTV. Whatever it isn't that big of a deal and probably not worth the trouble to drill anyway.
I just cut off the tabs myself anyway but if he had an easy way to align them without causing a sealing issue then why not....
 
Wish you had these before I started porting. Oh well, I think mine are turning out decent. Maybe I'll put a couple pics of them up. I do still have some porting to do though. I'll definitely want a set of these plates.

Alex, are you waiting on that motor to hatch, or are you going to install that thing!?!? You're going on 2 years, buddy! :laugh:

Mark
 
The other point to be considered here is that the plates s/b thin enough so that the EGR valve will still line up with the UIM. There is a small amount of play in the tube but loosening the nut on the header/precat fitting can be a real PITA due to clearance.


EGR tube fits just fine with the plates in,, put on the upper intake tonight, and it went smoothe as silk
 
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