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Hybrid engines with stock 2.5L valves?

T

TRicker

Hard-core CEG'er
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has anybody done this? or does everyone put 3L valves in? i have become sour to boost and i decided i want to keep with my nitrous setup and go big with it. i want higher compression, by way of 3L hybrid. how much power are the hybrids making that do not have larger valves installed? it will be a costly venture to do 3Lvalves in the 2.5L heads and i need to decide how well worth it it will be. keep in mind i am going to be running nitrous also, but no boost in this plan......
 
maybe i can get him to chime in here if you dont know, but is it ported or anything? i'm going for cheap power here really (minus cost of refills) and i want it dead reliable. if i run the hybrid i will be running an accusump as i plan on doing a little open track racing sometime in the future also. anybody else got any info? thanks thus far :)
 
hmmmmm. so is it a bad idea for me to run heads with 50k on them and not have a valve job done? or should i get new valves and get a 3 angle job? i'm going for reliability mostly, and a half decent amount of flow..... just enough so it doesnt backfire with a healthy shot of n20....
 
TRicker said:
hmmmmm. so is it a bad idea for me to run heads with 50k on them and not have a valve job done? or should i get new valves and get a 3 angle job? i'm going for reliability mostly, and a half decent amount of flow..... just enough so it doesnt backfire with a healthy shot of n20....
Click to expand...

You added the word reliability. The engine has 50K on it.
Therefore Pay the $200 to get the good valve job. Just remember that if you are that far into it then it will not cost much more to slap in the 3L valves, maybe another $100 max.

The way you do it is pull all the valves and have the intake valve seats cut for the 3L valves, then have NEW exhaust seats installed for the 3L exhaust valves. At this point you have to take the heads home or have someone do light porting on the intake and then port out the exhausts to fit the exhaust seats. If you do it just to make smooth transitions then there really isn't that much work.
In the long run you will be much happier you did that.
 
true. i'll have to price it out. seems like its going to be much more than 200$ to get 3L valves put in it though.... hopefully i can get it done for less!
 
Read it again and do the math. $200 just for the Valve job. However if you do some of the work yourself it would only be another $100 to get the seats stuck in, etc.
That's $300 last count. Still....you want performance and are always talking about ways to make more power. What's another $1-200 that can yield gains with every future mod.
 
well we've got to count the cost of a full set of 3L valves, and the seats i need. it's not going to be cheap to get the heads done. i'm willing to fork out if i can make this work. i'd really like to do the direct port setup the more i think about it. i just wish i had the money back i wasted on that blower :(
 
TRicker said:
well we've got to count the cost of a full set of 3L valves, and the seats i need. it's not going to be cheap to get the heads done. i'm willing to fork out if i can make this work. i'd really like to do the direct port setup the more i think about it. i just wish i had the money back i wasted on that blower :(
Click to expand...

Why? Don't you have the heads from your 3L that you got? If you don't have the valves the I agree it is NOT worth it.

It might be worth it to just by the exhaust valves for the 3L and install them since that is the big difference. The intakes can be made almost comparable with just a good port job.
 
i do not have a 3L block, i have 2 2.5L's right now. i was going to build a 2.5L and i may still be. i wouldnt spend all that money to install used valves anyways, i'd want new ones otherwise its just not worth it in the end. i am probably just going to have the 2.5L heads ported nicely and run it.
 
TRicker said:
i do not have a 3L block, i have 2 2.5L's right now. i was going to build a 2.5L and i may still be. i wouldnt spend all that money to install used valves anyways, i'd want new ones otherwise its just not worth it in the end. i am probably just going to have the 2.5L heads ported nicely and run it.
Click to expand...

Thats not an appropriate viewpoint. The used valves are essentially as good as new unless they have a LOT of miles on them or have been previously cut.

The 2.5L engine can benefit from bigger exhaust valves if you are going forced induction. You could still use 3L exhaust valves to good effect on 2.5L heads.

Honestly though: I really don't know WHAT you are doing anymore on your engine. 2.5L or 3L, supercharged, turbocharged, nitrous.
When you figure out for sure, just let us all know and we can probably give better advice.
 
i have completely given up on the blower, the last time it blew out it destroyed the compressor housing. i'm going to run two stages of nitrous, two 75 shots. i have direct port plates to go between the LIM and UIM that CSVT#49 made me but for two stages i will never be able to get 12 nozzles into the ports plus having all those nozzles in the intake runner ports is going to take up tons of air space, so i am going for the new nozzle that NX just came out with that has 4 bungs that all go into one nozzle for two stages and just fog it right after the TB. the plan right now is to run it all off my button but the second stage will be set at a 5000-redline window, and the first stage will start at 3500 RPM. exhaust flow is important so maybe i should get 3L valves in the exhaust at least?
 
I know I already told you Tyler but that kit does still have a 1 year parts warranty which is still valid until April. Make him fix the damn thing. He just finished a Vortech kit for a Cougar on NECO. Search supercharger in the FI section and check out the pics. Make him upgrade you to that kit because it seems to be working quite well.
 
well i did just talk to you today chris, and i'll call you tomorrow. ive never talked to mr. knight but maybe you can help me or get his number for me? i'm really not into putting another penny into it but at the very least maybe i can get him to rebuild it again so i can try to sell it or something.
 
There is one other important issue here...

The lousy oiling drainback inherent in the 2.5 heads. If you use the 3.0 heads with the additional drainbacks at the rr of the heads, you could forget about an accusump.

Pretty well all the 3.0's I've seen are c/w cylinder heads anyhow. Unless you're buying a new shortblock.
 
well after talking to chris about his 3L i have decided that if i do the 3L i'll just go with the 3L heads with a good port job and oval port it and run the SVT intake manifolds. since his made 25 or so more HP just goin from a race ported hybrid engine to the oval port 3L decreased compression and all.
 
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