Hey guys having trouble searched on here and looked on autozone website no help as of yet . Went to junk yard got regulator off 98 ford contour se drivers side same as my car. I broke my glass trying unattached old one so back to junk yard pita but got glass out back to car and some how the regulator is moving on track just lil bit didnt hook up glass yet whats the default position regulator should be in when window is down on track? I'm just really confused need this fix asap? is this something local shop would be able to do ie pep boys? I think I messed up this regulaot also
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driver window regulator pita
- Thread starter james9290
- Start date
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?p=50320#post50320
How much are they charging for a used regulator? I went with a new one, you don't know if the car it came from used the window daily , ie paying tolls etc. Bill Jenkins charges approx. $150 shipped to your door next day
How much are they charging for a used regulator? I went with a new one, you don't know if the car it came from used the window daily , ie paying tolls etc. Bill Jenkins charges approx. $150 shipped to your door next day
69Boss302
Has mile high skills
Have a look at steps 7, 8, etc and let me know if they work for you.
http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=6702
http://contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=6702
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
Installing a window regulator
For the first part of your question Auto Zone's web site has info on the removing of the window, but it is really incomplete. Here is additional info:
First remove the door trim cover. The first thing to do there is remove the window vent cover. I have this small thin blade knife with a sharp point I use to remove the screw cover on the vent cover. This is real hard to not mar it or scratch something. I hear new ones are available at a dealer. Once you get that out remove the screw and the vent cover.
Next remove the center of the door handle and the two screws for it. Becareful not to mar it either. Next pop out the screw cover on the front corner of the door this one is easy, remove the screw. Then on the outside edges remove the screw covers (if yours has them) one on the front edge, and two on the rear edge and bottom. Then the screws, 5 total. Next pop the screw cover out from the middle of the door handle pocket and remove that screw.
Remove the door handle bezel. This can be a problem I use a small screwdriver to pop out the door lock switch and then unfasten it. Then at the front edge by the master switch there is a spot that the bezel clips to the master switch, you must get that loose then there is a similar type clip just behind the door lock to get loose. If you break these the bezel will be loose, so take your time and be careful. I learned this on junk car so I'll admit I've busted a few. Once the bezel is off just pull the door panel from the bottom and it will come loose then lift up and off the door. Remove the window welt dont bend it. If it seems loose just pinch the part that goes on the door a bit to tighten it back up and fit good.
It takes me about 1/2 hour swap stuff out in a door now. Remove the speaker, and those speaker plugs always stick hard. I got so after removing the screws I just grab the speaker and give it a good yank then fix the inside of the clips. You may want to pry them off with a screwdriver. Remember you have to reinstall the vapor barrier so, I take a knife and after getting a spot started I pull and stretch the adhesive a bit then chase around the door with a knife cutting the sticky adhesive from the door as I pull. I do use a jumper battery w/ a 40 amp fuse, and a 18" long pig tail with a window motor connector on it. To change direction just swap the leads. Move the regulator to align the bolts with the holes in the door to remove the glass from the carrier. With yours at the bottom it is going to be more than a bit of trouble. Another thing you might try is to remove the four bolts for the track and the three bolts on the motor, and pushing the whole thing up. All those bolts use an 8mm socket. I would really try to raise the window using the switch and pulling or pushing up on the window to get it to align with the two holes in the door. After removing the spreadder bolts (14mm socket) removing the black plastic keeper clips from through the carrier and the glass, can be a PIA. They are three pronged and you must get them squeezed while reaching behind the glass with just your finger tips, then at the same time push them through the glass. Sometimes you get them almost flush with the back of the glass and they want to sitck there. Dammmm..... at this point I usually push on them with the side of a hard plastic screwdriver handle. IF you have gotten this all done you are in for the easy part. I would reinstall the window welt on the edge of the door and push the glass all the way up. I have found the glass will stay there most of the time while completing the rest of the work. If not wedge it in place. Then install your new regulator and motor. The carrier must be aligned with those holes to install the glass but you can hook up the motor and do that. You will see there is a clip on the outside of the carrier that the glass fits in. When properly placed the holes in the glass and carrier align. I use the 14mm socket to push the retainer clips in the carrier and glass then install the spreader bolts.
Put the door panel on and your good to go have an adult beverage, well I do. LOL
If you need additional info contact me.
For the first part of your question Auto Zone's web site has info on the removing of the window, but it is really incomplete. Here is additional info:
First remove the door trim cover. The first thing to do there is remove the window vent cover. I have this small thin blade knife with a sharp point I use to remove the screw cover on the vent cover. This is real hard to not mar it or scratch something. I hear new ones are available at a dealer. Once you get that out remove the screw and the vent cover.
Next remove the center of the door handle and the two screws for it. Becareful not to mar it either. Next pop out the screw cover on the front corner of the door this one is easy, remove the screw. Then on the outside edges remove the screw covers (if yours has them) one on the front edge, and two on the rear edge and bottom. Then the screws, 5 total. Next pop the screw cover out from the middle of the door handle pocket and remove that screw.
Remove the door handle bezel. This can be a problem I use a small screwdriver to pop out the door lock switch and then unfasten it. Then at the front edge by the master switch there is a spot that the bezel clips to the master switch, you must get that loose then there is a similar type clip just behind the door lock to get loose. If you break these the bezel will be loose, so take your time and be careful. I learned this on junk car so I'll admit I've busted a few. Once the bezel is off just pull the door panel from the bottom and it will come loose then lift up and off the door. Remove the window welt dont bend it. If it seems loose just pinch the part that goes on the door a bit to tighten it back up and fit good.
It takes me about 1/2 hour swap stuff out in a door now. Remove the speaker, and those speaker plugs always stick hard. I got so after removing the screws I just grab the speaker and give it a good yank then fix the inside of the clips. You may want to pry them off with a screwdriver. Remember you have to reinstall the vapor barrier so, I take a knife and after getting a spot started I pull and stretch the adhesive a bit then chase around the door with a knife cutting the sticky adhesive from the door as I pull. I do use a jumper battery w/ a 40 amp fuse, and a 18" long pig tail with a window motor connector on it. To change direction just swap the leads. Move the regulator to align the bolts with the holes in the door to remove the glass from the carrier. With yours at the bottom it is going to be more than a bit of trouble. Another thing you might try is to remove the four bolts for the track and the three bolts on the motor, and pushing the whole thing up. All those bolts use an 8mm socket. I would really try to raise the window using the switch and pulling or pushing up on the window to get it to align with the two holes in the door. After removing the spreadder bolts (14mm socket) removing the black plastic keeper clips from through the carrier and the glass, can be a PIA. They are three pronged and you must get them squeezed while reaching behind the glass with just your finger tips, then at the same time push them through the glass. Sometimes you get them almost flush with the back of the glass and they want to sitck there. Dammmm..... at this point I usually push on them with the side of a hard plastic screwdriver handle. IF you have gotten this all done you are in for the easy part. I would reinstall the window welt on the edge of the door and push the glass all the way up. I have found the glass will stay there most of the time while completing the rest of the work. If not wedge it in place. Then install your new regulator and motor. The carrier must be aligned with those holes to install the glass but you can hook up the motor and do that. You will see there is a clip on the outside of the carrier that the glass fits in. When properly placed the holes in the glass and carrier align. I use the 14mm socket to push the retainer clips in the carrier and glass then install the spreader bolts.
Put the door panel on and your good to go have an adult beverage, well I do. LOL
If you need additional info contact me.
If pepole would only read a reply from someone other than the original posters question they would have saved themselves a lot of unnecessary typing.
69 Boss 302's reply even has pictures.
I meant to preference my above remarks earlier with, "Not meaning to be a smart aleck" but didn't because I wasn't sure of the correct spelling. I didn't mean to sound harsh. Ed
69 Boss 302's reply even has pictures.
I meant to preference my above remarks earlier with, "Not meaning to be a smart aleck" but didn't because I wasn't sure of the correct spelling. I didn't mean to sound harsh. Ed
Last edited:
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
No offense taken Ed,
69 Boss 302's reply was very good, and I like the pic's. However he says to use a 15mm socket and it really is a 14mm. I only typed my outline once several months ago when I changed my car from manual to power windows, and saved it in a word document, so now I just do a copy & paste. Still edit it a bit once in a while though.
I knew nothing about doing this as many people that come to this site looking for help. I asked similar questions, and from the responses I received it was evident after starting the project that some people that replied to my query had never looked inside a door, and were just posting to hear themselves post, if you know what I mean. I have made my self a commitment that when someone needs help I plan to provide the info I have acquired so I know they have the correct info and not get things apart with nowhere to go. Even the Auto Zone outline does not have all the info in their how to. So what if someone reads 69 Boss 302's and doesn't have all the stuff and goes and gets a 15mm socket and when the time comes to use it they don't, as you and I might, have a 14mm to grab right handy. Perhaps they need to make another trip to a store to get one. Then think it is raining sideways out and they are working under a tarp cuz the window is down and they have to go to work in the morning. It won't be from me giving the wrong info. When working on a car I think like Tony the more info the better.
That's why I post and I don't mind the typing :laugh:
Thanks for the support Tony.....
Regards,
Aussie Ford
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
My damn window is doing this crap too. I hate the thought of having to replace mine as well. mine falls forward when going up and won't got all the way down either...
Sometimes this is caused by the regulator, and sometimes it is caused by the window guide track. I found when I replaced the guide / weather strip around the window that it is really light guage material. It was spread open inside the door allowing the window to rock forward and bind up. I was changing from manual to power windows at the time and knew this didn't happen with the other (damaged part) guide in place. I took it back out and found it was out of shape, both the curve for the glass and the spread of the width. I carefully reshaped it and have had no trouble since.
I suggest you open up the door and watch the operation as you move the window up & down. Then make corrections as necessary. About 6 months ago, or so, there were several questions and posts about this window tipping issue.
My 2 cents
Smalls
Addicted CEG'er
i wish i knew this before replacing both regulators and having the windows still fall forward when raising them...
sznoah
New CEG'er
Driver's Side Windows Repair/Half Way There..
Driver's Side Windows Repair/Half Way There..
I was having the same grinding noise that "jimmyz49866" was having here... http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=7421&highlight=window+regulator .
Replacing the Regulator and motor resolved the noise problem... and swapping out the old part was pretty easy, but.... now the window jerks forward about half way up, and then jerks backward at the top of it's travel. "Aussie Ford" mentions reshaping the "guide / weather strip around the window". Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to do this?
I probably need to do this on the read driver's side windows as well, as it squeals and the strip will not stay down in it's channel.
Thanks, Stu
Driver's Side Windows Repair/Half Way There..
I was having the same grinding noise that "jimmyz49866" was having here... http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=7421&highlight=window+regulator .
Replacing the Regulator and motor resolved the noise problem... and swapping out the old part was pretty easy, but.... now the window jerks forward about half way up, and then jerks backward at the top of it's travel. "Aussie Ford" mentions reshaping the "guide / weather strip around the window". Does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to do this?
I probably need to do this on the read driver's side windows as well, as it squeals and the strip will not stay down in it's channel.
Thanks, Stu
sznoah
New CEG'er
Source for replacement "guide/weather strip?
Source for replacement "guide/weather strip?
As an alternate to reshaping the guide, does anyone know of a source for this part? In looking at the original part, the ends are pretty beat up. The metal that holds the seal in place in corroded at both ends, which will make it difficult to reshape.
Thanks, Stu
Source for replacement "guide/weather strip?
As an alternate to reshaping the guide, does anyone know of a source for this part? In looking at the original part, the ends are pretty beat up. The metal that holds the seal in place in corroded at both ends, which will make it difficult to reshape.
Thanks, Stu
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
sznoah: It is possible that while changing out the regulator the window track was bent. It is not very tough. What I have done is to move the window up and down in the track by hand and adjust the track when I feel it come to a tight spot. The adjustment is by applying pressure by hand on the sides of the track to align it. Also at times opening or or closing the track channel by prying or squeezing as needed so that the window runs easily but you can still feel the rubbing of the welt. So the track needs to have the correct curve, span, and channel width. Another thing to consider is if there is anything caught in the welt. Mostly this would be broken glass. It is good to check inside the welt at this time unless you have owned the car from new and know all the history.
The only place I know to get the replacement parts these days is a wrecking yard. I am sure there may be other sources, but there are many available at the JY.
Regards,
AF
The only place I know to get the replacement parts these days is a wrecking yard. I am sure there may be other sources, but there are many available at the JY.
Regards,
AF
sznoah
New CEG'er
Thanks Aussie Ford,
At the very ends of the welt the internal metal has turned to powder and disintegrated entirely... which might not be so bad. Where the metal is solid there is no problem but near the ends, where it is partially corroded, the welt is swollen out by the corrosion and is probably rubbing against the glass. Maybe spraying in some contact cleaner, WD40, etc., would melt down the corrosion and let me reuse the welt?
Worst case scenario, has anyone ever tried to order this part from a Ford dealer?
At the very ends of the welt the internal metal has turned to powder and disintegrated entirely... which might not be so bad. Where the metal is solid there is no problem but near the ends, where it is partially corroded, the welt is swollen out by the corrosion and is probably rubbing against the glass. Maybe spraying in some contact cleaner, WD40, etc., would melt down the corrosion and let me reuse the welt?
Worst case scenario, has anyone ever tried to order this part from a Ford dealer?
sznoah
New CEG'er
Cleaning out Corrosion in Welt fixed Uneven Movement
Cleaning out Corrosion in Welt fixed Uneven Movement
OK, I cleaned the corroded metal out of inside of the rubber welt, and this fixed the issue of the window pushing forward. The corrosion caused a swelling which prevented me from straightening the welt. I ended up using an Ice Pick, Rust Buster, and a can of compressed air.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction... and right before all the rain started!
Stu
Cleaning out Corrosion in Welt fixed Uneven Movement
OK, I cleaned the corroded metal out of inside of the rubber welt, and this fixed the issue of the window pushing forward. The corrosion caused a swelling which prevented me from straightening the welt. I ended up using an Ice Pick, Rust Buster, and a can of compressed air.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction... and right before all the rain started!
Stu