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Codes for Turbo SVT

C

Chas

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
May 19, 2008
Messages
875
Location
AZ
98.5 SVT
1998 3.0L block
2.5L ported and polished SVT heads with 3L valves
Pauter forged rods
Ross 8.5:1 forged pistons
Street flight turbo kit - T3/TO4E turbo
HKS SSQV BOV
6 psi right now
42lb injectors (from what I was told, not sure how to check)

Ok, so here are the codes that I'm getting right now after 20 miles:

P0141 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2)

P0161 - O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 2 sensor 2)

P1401 - Manufacturer control axillary emission controls

P1409 - Manufacturer control axillary emission controls

P0172 - System too rich (bank 1)

P0175 - System too rich (bank 2)


The car will die after a hard throttle if you let off the gas, or will stay running if you give it a little gas right after the hard pull.

ALSO, after about 5500RPM, the car makes a fluttering sound (HKS BOV opening?), and seems to stay at or loose power, but definitely does not pull any harder.

The auto meter Vac/Boost guage reads 6PSI at peak boost, and the turbo is on what I was told is the stock spring, it does not have a boost controller.
 
P1401: [FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif][SIZE=+0][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage.

P1409: [/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif][SIZE=+0][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction.[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
 
svttour said:
What kind of tune is on the car?
Click to expand...

None as far as I know. Jeff (Qwk98svt) said that the kit came with a chip, but when he installed it, the car would not start, so he took it out.
 
striker2 said:
P1401: [FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif][SIZE=+0][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage.

P1409: [/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif][SIZE=+0][FONT=arial,verdana,helvetica,sans-serif]EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction.[/FONT][/SIZE][/FONT]
Click to expand...

Those don't sound too fun :nonono: where should I start?
 
Chas said:
None as far as I know. Jeff (Qwk98svt) said that the kit came with a chip, but when he installed it, the car would not start, so he took it out.
Click to expand...


The chip wasnt burned correctly. You need a tune ASAP. With the ADC kit you have to remove the lower o2 sensors and thats whats causing the codes for that. It may even take care of the rest of the codes.
 
svttour said:
The chip wasnt burned correctly. You need a tune ASAP. With the ADC kit you have to remove the lower o2 sensors and thats whats causing the codes for that. It may even take care of the rest of the codes.
Click to expand...

what did you put in place of them? with them missing, how do you fool the computer into thinking they are there?
 
Chas said:
what did you put in place of them? with them missing, how do you fool the computer into thinking they are there?
Click to expand...

They're most likely turned off in the tune. Mine are disabled in my tune. The lower ones don't really do much anyways.
 
Well I guess I'll head up to Phoenix next weekend and see ADC for the tune. Will the car be OK to drive up (120 miles)? Or do I NEED to trailer it?

What do you guys think the lack of power/fluttering sound problem is?

Thanks by the way for all the help!
 
Dont drive the car! Dont rev the engine over 4k rpms if it isnt tuned. The chances of blowing that thing up right now are very great. Call ADC first and then take it to them dont just show up. They might not work on our cars anymore.

The lack of power is likely tune related. Fluttering can be anything. We would have to see a video or hear a soundbite to determine what it may be.
 
svttour said:
Dont drive the car! Dont rev the engine over 4k rpms if it isnt tuned. The chances of blowing that thing up right now are very great. Call ADC first and then take it to them dont just show up. They might not work on our cars anymore.

The lack of power is likely tune related. Fluttering can be anything. We would have to see a video or hear a soundbite to determine what it may be.
Click to expand...

oops! I took it for a few quick spins around my neighborhood, no more than 1000ft, but did hit 6k+ a couple times. Luckily no problems so far, but I won't drive it to PHX, i'll get a full trailer, and tow it up next weekend. Jeff did say he drove it 200+ miles before I bought it, so I didn't think it was a big deal, but now I know better :blackeye:

Luckily Keith (I think that was his name), the guy who built the street flight kits, still works (owns?) at ADC, and said it wouldn't be a problem to tune it. $795 for full tune w/ SCT Xcal3.

I will change the clutch once I get back from PHX and when we figure out what is better than the Spec Stage 3+ that seems to be having problems for everyone. It seems to hold fairly well (it's currently a Spec Stage 2) it might slip a small amount but I'm not sure, but the TOB makes an annoying whining noise when the clutch is 50% engaged :nonono:
 
if you have not flashed the pcm with an xcal or do not have the chip in the car do not run it. on a stock tune with larger injectors you are asking for trouble. and yes at idle you will trip rich codes because the pcm has hit the limit that it can when trying to lean out the a/f ratio.

I would go and change the oil, or at least check it for gas.
 
BrApple said:
I would go and change the oil, or at least check it for gas.
Click to expand...

I'll change it before I head up to PHX.

1. Does anyone know how much oil I will need (i know 6qts for stock 3.0L, but how much more for the ADC plumbing)?

2. Out of all the top oils, Mobile 1 Extended Performance, Castrol Edge, Royal Purple, Amsoil (which I haven't seen locally), which one should I use since this is turbo'd, or does it not really matter?

3. Should I change the weight, or stick with 5w-30? (Tucson can get to 110 degrees in the middle of summer, 2000ft above sea level)
 
there are posts about oil weights in the forced induction forum. check it out.

recommended oil weights where 5w40, 10w40, 15w50/20w50 in the summer
 
I run Mobil 1 10W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck Oil in mine with the ADC Kit. I feel better about the thicker stuff given the amount of heat produced by the turbo, and with you being in AZ it makes even more sense to run something thicker. 6 QTS should do it. Buy 7 and check the level after filling with 6.

I totally agree with Brapple, change the oil ASAP, if it is dumping a ton of fuel right now there is a good chance that the oil is being effected by the gas. Every 2-3 oil changes I send a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis ($14.95, i think). Just to see what is going on with my motor. My old 3L and rich running turbo setup would show too much fuel in the oil, for the given mileage. Good to know whats going on so as not to prolong an issue.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

You should not have a fluttering sound under boost. I have that same BOV and havn't experienced that at all. Is it possible the vacuum/boost lines are hooked up wrong for the BOV?

Anyone think this could be compressor surge? I think that turbo is sized accordingly and should not be out of its efficiency range.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCj6Spwl1CU Watch :45 - 1:00 Does it sound like that?
 
Last edited:
Trailer it, youve probably got too much invested to risk popping it on the way. Also, check your fuses, my 02 mustang gt was throwing evap codes, o2 codes, egr codes etc and when i looked at the wiring diagram it all led to the same fuse. That was fun ! !
 
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