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Pulse Wheel Differences

B

Blackcoog

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Nov 14, 2000
Messages
1,998
Location
Mounds View, MN, USA
Anyone ever seen differences in the pulse wheels from 2.5L's to the 3L's?

I hadn't until the other day. I used to think they were all stamped the same way. Normally I went off of the stamp on the pulse wheel. The notch near the 25 writing was for the 2.5L timing cover. The 3L's normally come using the notch near the 30 writing. Do not go based of where the stamped on writing is! Based on the pictures I found always use the notch closest to the two small holes for the Contour/Cougar 2.5L cover (Escape cover also).

I have two pulse wheels now. Each has the 25 and the 30 stamp but they are in opposite spots. WTF is this BS? So I built a 3L motor for my younger brothers car, put the pulse wheel on to the notch near the 25 spot and installed the motor. The car won't start so I pulled the crank damper to peer in at the notches and their orientation to compare the notches to the other pulse wheel I have to verify it's on correctly. It isn't so I'm thinking a Gnome switched the pulse wheel when I wasn't looking. I get it off and the pulse wheels are marked differently.

Here is a picture of the normal pulse wheel on the 3L motors with the stamped on numbers in their normal spots. The one I have has the stamped on numbers in the opposite locations and also has two large holes in the pulse wheel on the left and right side of the crank hole. Maybe the stamps mean nothing or I got a pulse wheel made on Friday. I believe the f'ed up wheel is from a 2000 SVT. I don't think this is the one from the 3L since it's different than all the other ones I've seen and since the 2.5L and 3L timing equipment were in the same box when I was installing the SVT cams on this motor.

P1020660.jpg
 
Another reason why pre98s are good, can't confuse :confused: the pulse wheels :) Looks totally different.
newpics145.jpg
 
blu_fuz,
Those older pulsewheels have a slightly different thickness than the one with dual keyways. The damper at that time had a different height so that the v-belt grooves all lined up. Be careful about mix and matching parts... I think if the part number engraved on the damper starts with F4 or F5 than it will be the old thickness.

Rule of thumb for pulsewheel alignment which works for all Duratec 2.5/3.0L:
With crank keyway at 9 o'clock position, missing tooth in pulsewheel must point towards sensor hole in front cover being used.
 
I'm confused then. I need to look at my dampner to find F4 or F5 and then what?
 
procyon said:
blu_fuz,
Those older pulsewheels have a slightly different thickness than the one with dual keyways. The damper at that time had a different height so that the v-belt grooves all lined up. Be careful about mix and matching parts... I think if the part number engraved on the damper starts with F4 or F5 than it will be the old thickness.

Rule of thumb for pulsewheel alignment which works for all Duratec 2.5/3.0L:
With crank keyway at 9 o'clock position, missing tooth in pulsewheel must point towards sensor hole in front cover being used.
Click to expand...

Please confirm. I believe what you're trying to say is that "the missing tooth should line up with the crank sensor (hole) in the timing chain cover."
 
Yes, the missing tooth should line up with crank sensor hole. If so, you are using the correct slot on the pulsewheel.
 
CraigTRD said:
How hard is it to get in there and change the position of the pulse wheel while the engine is still in the vehicle? Is it even possible?
Click to expand...


yes its possible, but not fun. pull the alternator, uim and valve covers. then you will be able to remove the front cover.
 
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