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Finally doing a 3L

L

LilCe98

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Jul 14, 2006
Messages
2,030
Location
Richmond, VA
Ok after months of deliberation between getting a new car or doing a 3L swap after i blew a waterpump, I've decided to go with the swap. I've been talking with DangG and it looks as if I'm going to go with a straight 3L. Decision was based on easy of installation since I'm on a time and money restraint. Here's the parts list he gave me:

- Updated YL8E oil pan w/integrated gasket
- 2.5L front main seal
- 2.5L SVT crank timing sprocket
- 2.5L SVT guides, tensioners
- 2x 2.5L SVT timing chains
- 3x 2.5L timing cover gaskets
- 2x 2.5L valve cover gaskets
- 6x spark plug O ring gaskets
- water pump pulley "squiggle" gasket
- 2x LIM gaskets
- 2x UIM gaskets
- EGR gasket
- IACV gasket
- TB gasket
- 6x Spark plugs
- OEM Motorcraft spark plug wire set

Fluids / Misc:
- 1 Gallon dex-cool
- 6 qts 5W-30 dino oil
- Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter
- Fuel filter (if it hasn't been changed in the past year)
- Cabin Air Filter (same)
- 4 qts Mobil 1 ATF or Ford "Honey" (to refill trans since it'll be pulled and must be drained)
- main serpentine belt (if yours is worn)
- water pump belt (same)
- 1 tube Permatex anti-seize compound
- 1 tube Permatex Ultra-Black RTV Sealant

Bearings:
- Set of 12 (2 per cylinder) Clevite 77 tri-metal rod bearings for 3L Duratec (Local auto parts store can get these)

Some of the things on the list are just recommendations and not requirements.

I've found a 02 taurus 59K for $500, and a 01 taurus w/9K for $600. I have plenty of other work to do on the car, such as brakes and suspension, so is there a problem with me going with the 59K over the 9K engine so I can use that $100 on the suspension? I know the lower miles are better but is it worth the extra $$?

Well hopefully the swap will happen in the next few weeks after I gather all of the parts, and Dan gets the time. If there are any comments or things that I might be looking over feel free to post.
{J}
 
Beans said:
Go with the 9k engine!
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Slow down there young jedi. Telling people to buy things just because it had 9k miles is bad advice.

Problem with that means, it was used for a very short while and has remained sitting in a yard with the same oil inside it for 7 years. Hoping the owner did indeed change the oil (since most people who lease don't) this 9k engine will be full of sludge and be crustified. :blackeye:

I hope they give some type of Guarantee with buying this engine in case you need to return it. Getting it home and removing the pan will sure give you a lot of info.
 
i'd go for the 59k. if there's any potential for troubles, it would've shown already. avergae mileage isnt necessarily a bad thing. it doesnt need to be broken. besides, u really should be able to find another with less miles if u looked more. ideal is between 20 and 40k... miles that is.
 
Clevites come in pack sizes. I always consider "1" bearing to be the two halves, but whatever.

No ATF for the trans.

No TTY Rod bolts listed
 
Harrry said:
Problem with that means, it was used for a very short while and has remained sitting in a yard with the same oil inside it for 7 years. Hoping the owner did indeed change the oil (since most people who lease don't) this 9k engine will be full of sludge and be crustified. :blackeye:
Click to expand...
BAD SVT said:
i'd go for the 59k. if there's any potential for troubles, it would've shown already. avergae mileage isnt necessarily a bad thing. it doesnt need to be broken. besides, u really should be able to find another with less miles if u looked more. ideal is between 20 and 40k... miles that is.
Click to expand...

Thats kinda what I was thinking thats why I asked. I'm trying to find one within driving range. I"ve found cheaper ones but once you factor in shipping it comes out to be the same or more. I'm still looking though.

Pudmunkie said:
No ATF for the trans.

No TTY Rod bolts listed
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Lol, you may need to speak english to me. I don't know too much about this kinda stuff. I'm hoping to learn a lot more when all this is done
 
LilCe98 said:
Lol, you may need to speak english to me. I don't know too much about this kinda stuff. I'm hoping to learn a lot more when all this is done
Click to expand...

He is saying NO ATF. Which means no automatic transmission fluid

TTY is the company selling bolts that he wants to add to your list :)
 
Harrry said:
He is saying NO ATF. Which means no automatic transmission fluid

TTY is the company selling bolts that he wants to add to your list :)
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lol no

TTY is Torque To Yield... You can only use these bolts once. If you try to re-use your stock rod bolts I'll be forced to laugh at you.
 
if you are using the upgraded escape oil pan then you either need to use the oil pick up from your 2.5L and modify it to fit or get the matching oil pick up tube from the escape.
 
Pudmunkie said:
lol no

TTY is Torque To Yield... You can only use these bolts once. If you try to re-use your stock rod bolts I'll be forced to laugh at you.
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I assumed you were recomending something like ARP bolts:shrug:
That is all.
 
I just got the replacement 3l for my car for right at 400 and it is an 04 w/54k on it. check out lkqonline and see if they have a location near you.
 
icysvt said:
I just got the replacement 3l for my car for right at 400 and it is an 04 w/54k on it. check out lkqonline and see if they have a location near you.
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I think the closest to me is in bronx, ny. Shipping was the issue. I think it was $150 for shipping and then another $150 if it was to a residence because they would have to use a different truck or some crap like that.

It looks like i'm going to go with an Adapted 3L: 3L block and head. I would have really liked to keep the SVT heads because it looks so much better, but its just not worth the extra cost of fabrication. I know NPG makes an adapter for the LIM that goes 3L oval port heads to 2.5L split port UIM. Now, just to verify, is this it and has anyone seen the other color options?
LIMMod012.jpg
 
That is probably the easiest way to go, but not the most $ friendly. For a few hours you could just port the 3L heads using bugzukie plates as guides and reuse your SVT lim.
 
The SVT heads aren't really visible, even if they were they don't look any different externally from what I remember. I'm not sure what you mean by extra fabricating, the SVT heads requires probably the LEAST fabricating, just filling the holes in the block (i wouldn't consider that fabricating). Then everything would bolt up like stock, I think you're getting heads and manifolds confused.

That's the correct adapter that would allow you to use your 2.5 UIM on the unmodified 3L heads, haven't seen any other finishes.
 
I have seen them in a dark blue pc finish. Looked decent to me. they are an added cost but if you want to use your svt uim then this is an easy way to do so.
 
blu_fuz said:
That is probably the easiest way to go, but not the most $ friendly. For a few hours you could just port the 3L heads using bugzukie plates as guides and reuse your SVT lim.
Click to expand...

The NPG LIM is the fastest route to getting back on the road. whether its cheaper or not depends on how comfortable he is with porting. if he doesn't want to do that himself, then that becomes a factor in the total cost. if i did things over i would use the NPG LIM and the 2.5 upper to minimize fabrication. but then again, i'm running a turbo. if staying N/A then the 2.5 heads and 2.5 UIM (and split port LIM) are the better route for power.

DanG has done both the full 3L and the hybrid, so both are possibilities.
 
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