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Blu's 1995 Contour SE 3L build thread

blu_fuz

New Member Classroom vulture
Joined
Sep 25, 2002
Messages
16,028
Location
Waupun, WI
*11-5-08
Car = 212,231 Miles
Motor = 19,151 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 1,124 Miles*


*7-13-09
Car = 217,010 Miles
Motor = 23,930 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 4,779 Miles*


*9-10-10
Car = 224,225 Miles
Motor = 31,145 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 11,994 Miles*


*10-21-11
Car = 231,568 Miles
Motor = 38,488 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 19,337 Miles*


*6-18-12
Car = 235,418 Miles
Motor = 42,338 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 23,187 Miles*


*11-14-12 Clutch went out.
Car = 238,623 Miles
Motor = 45,543 Miles
Trans/clutch/torsen = 26,392 Miles*


*12-13-12
Car = 238,623 Miles
Motor = 45,543 Miles
Trans w/torsen = 26,392 Miles
Clutchnet w/ LUK TOB/PP = 0 Miles*


*5-20-13
Car = 240,023 Miles
Motor = 46,943 Miles
Trans w/torsen = 27,792 Miles
Clutchnet w/ LUK TOB/PP = 1,400 Miles*



*8-29-14 Trans went out.
Car = 244,295 Miles
Motor = 51,215 Miles
Stock Trans = 51,138Miles
FORD SVT OEM clutch kit = 1,382 Miles*



*7-8-15
Car = 255,855 Miles
Motor = 62,775 Miles
Stock Trans = 62,698Miles
FORD SVT OEM clutch kit = 12,942 Miles*










Time for me to take the plunge and attempt to put a 3L in my '95 SE. This will have start to finish pics that to some, will not look like much, but to others might inspire them to do the same. I hope this works. I believe it will be one of few '95 contour with a 3L that is currently on the road and driving.

Upgrade List

Motor
-2005 Taurus 3L DOHC (18,027 miles)
-bugzuki plates
-ported heads
-powder coat and paint just about every thing I can
-keep original secondaries
-2.5 pan/gasket and pickup tube
-SVT UIM
-MSDS headers & Y pipe
-DMD
-2.5 valve and timing covers
-new AC compressor and drier
-3L water pump
-new serp. and water pump belt
-finally connect my oil pressure sending unit
-'01 cougar mount
-new starter
-new alternator


Pre98 Rod-shift TRANS
-LSD torsen diff
-zetec final drive
-new seals
-new TOB
-SVT clutch & PP
-SVT resurfaced flywheel


BRAKES/SUSPENSION
-new ebrake cables
-SVT 11.75" front rotors on rear w/ stainless lines and warmonger brackets and hardware
-Baer 13" front brake kit, zinc coated rotors w/ stainless lines
-new sway bar end links and bushings
-new 4 bolt control arms with ball joints


TOTAL BUILD COSTS=

-almost new napa starter ($60)
-almost new motorcraft alternator ($90)
-New ford ac compressor(ebay $50) and almost new drier(free, parts car)
-New svt clutch, pp, and TOB ($220)
-resurfaced svt flywheel ($40)
-2005 18k mile 3L delivered ($360 bay auto parts)
-bugzukie plates ($35)
-Livin built pre98 trans delivered (bartered: cash $235 labor+shipped, used 13" wilwood kit, and powder coating)
-new gaskets ($100ish)
-newly rebuilt 13" baer front kit with rotors ($500)
-New NPG rear kit with new rotors (bartered for powder coating)
-almost new e-brake cables (free, parts car)
-New MSDS headers (bartered for a mirko that I got for free)
-used MSDS Y pipe coated ($70 shipped)
-'01 cougar mount ($23)
-New DMD ($20)
-New stainless brake lines ($80)
-New PRT front roll resistor ($40)
-New PRT rear roll resistor (had that already)
-New moog sway bar end links ($28)
-New 4 bolt control arms with ball joints ($130)

Total= $2,081
And I figured about $300 worth of powder coating. :) So, about $2,381..... It is good to know such nice people here on CEG!

I still have to subtract parts I have/am selling off the 3L that I won't be using. AND the recycling scrap price of the old motor and heads.
+$82 for scrap return



I will add more upgrades as they are purchased.


This build started because the pressure relief valve has failed in the oil pump. Most said you must pull the motor to change the pump. I have decided that since the motor will be pulled, why not upgrade?
After going through 6 oil filter blow-outs, it is time!

The day before all this started to happen, I posted pics of my newly powder coated SVT UIM, TB, pud heat shield, and valve covers. The original motor and trans just hit 212,000 miles.
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The next morning was a different story........

Pics of oil blow-outs in my garage and driveway :nonono:

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I just took off the 6th filter and found that the housing has completely seperated from the threaded cap:
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I have never done anything mechanical to the motor of this car and I am very motor "dumb" for lack of a better word. I have been around a long time, but that does not mean that I know what I am doing. All I can do is ask questions and read about what others have done in the past. If I incorrectly name a part or mis detail a process, please speak up! - I am learning as I go.
 
2005 taurus 3L
18,027 miles
$350 Delivered


I hope I got the right one :shrug:
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Here are some basic tear down progress pictures. I thought some would like to see them. I am just gradually picking away at this project because I have the time and the room to do it. My motivation and goal is getting it to SZ '09 and running like a champ.
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I'm saving this one :laugh::laugh::laugh:

Correct Motor FTW and a great price delivered with that mileage.
 
Keep it up and ask plenty of questions. Most parts of this swap are not that difficult and you should have no trouble learning what you need to know. I would wager to say that you will be done way before your goal.
 
Looking good :)

Just one thing, you might have some trouble with the legs of the engine crane due to the placement off the front jack stands...
 
I did notice the stands were in the exact spot where the lift legs go :nonono: I used the same location when Pole120 and I pulled the motor from my brother's car. We just needed to go at an angle....

Just so you guys know I am doing a "ported" 3L. 3L block and heads, SVT UIM, SVT TB, 2.5 valve covers, 2.5 timing cover, 2.5 oil pan and pickup tube, all 2.5 accesories, all 2.5 electrical and sensors

The only questions I have now are:
1. Are there any special tools or teqniques for removing the rod shift linkage on a pre98 trans?
2. I will be disconnecting the fuel lines soon and I know there is a tool for that. It was attempted earlier when rebuilding my top end and one line would not release. The spring depressed but the o-rings seemed to be stuck together. What could I use to break that line loose?
3. I am replacing the AC compressor but my system is pressurized and full, how do I release that safely or even at all?
4. (sp) bugzookie?? makes a gasket that eliminates the ports I need to plug on the heads of the 3L. Where and how do I get those and about how much are they?
5. HOW DO I PORT THE HEADS ON THE 3L? Do I line up the gaskets on the heads and trace them, plug the intake holes, and start grinding away while using a vacuum?
6. What do I do with the crank pully? It is sticking out really far compared to my 2.5L. Thought I heard someone say something about cutting it down shorter..... not sure though
7. The engine mount to the left (passenger) side of the engine bay needs to be ground down I have heard. Any one have pics of theres done or will I just know what to do when I get to that point?
8. What size bolts do I need to hold my engine to the engine stand for when I am working on it?


That's all I can think of right now - this project is the talk of my life right now. Everyone at work and all my neighbors think I am :crazy: crazy..... :laugh: It is kinda funny....
 
I'm saving this one :laugh::laugh::laugh:

Correct Motor FTW and a great price delivered with that mileage.

Awesome!


AND, thanks to everyone for helping when I really need it. So many have done so much, and I don't even have the 2.5 out yet!
 
The only questions I have now are:
1. Are there any special tools or teqniques for removing the rod shift linkage on a pre98 trans?

No tools but it doesn't like to come apart. PB Blast is good. You'll be cussin here. A LOT. There are 2 holes for some reason in the rod that goes out of the trans. Hopefully you can seperate the part that goes to the interior enough to see the edge of one hole. Get a tiny screw driver in there and pry the male and female apart.

2. I will be disconnecting the fuel lines soon and I know there is a tool for that. It was attempted earlier when rebuilding my top end and one line would not release. The spring depressed but the o-rings seemed to be stuck together. What could I use to break that line loose?

More lube and muscle. It's like making love to a large woman.

3. I am replacing the AC compressor but my system is pressurized and full, how do I release that safely or even at all?

Unbolt the 3 bolts on the compressor and zip tie it out of the way to the subframe.

4. (sp) bugzookie?? makes a gasket that eliminates the ports I need to plug on the heads of the 3L. Where and how do I get those and about how much are they?

Search

5. HOW DO I PORT THE HEADS ON THE 3L? Do I line up the gaskets on the heads and trace them, plug the intake holes, and start grinding away while using a vacuum?
....


Look on Demon's webpage. Make it look like that. I know there are instructions somewhere.

6. What do I do with the crank pully? It is sticking out really far compared to my 2.5L. Thought I heard someone say something about cutting it down shorter..... not sure though

Have to take it off and it can be a PITA. I recall you have to go to the right. The bolt for the crank pully is under that. After you get the PITA pully off then rent a pully puller from Auto Zone. After the crank pully then pull the timing over off and put it on the 3L. DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE PULSE WHEEL IN THE 2.5 JUST AS IT IS ON THE 2.5.

7. The engine mount to the left (passenger) side of the engine bay needs to be ground down I have heard. Any one have pics of theres done or will I just know what to do when I get to that point?
01 Cougar mount is what you need. Pics in my budget 3L thread in the old forums

8. What size bolts do I need to hold my engine to the engine stand for when I am working on it?
Pull the bolts out of the head of your 2.5 and use those. Not kidding.

That's all I can think of right now - this project is the talk of my life right now. Everyone at work and all my neighbors think I am :crazy: crazy..... :laugh: It is kinda funny....

Blu you are crazy but I like you. I have typers cramp now.
 
I just reread what I typed and it made sense to me but maybe not to anyone else. I'm drinking and you might need to ask me for clarification.
 
nope,reads good to me:laugh:
only thing your missing from your post is a plug for one of your ford repair cd's:laugh:
 
on the powersteering, if you haven't drained it already don't. all you need to do is support the engine on a jack and remove the engine mount. then just unbolt the ps pump from the engine and swing off to the side. this way you don't need to worry about opening that up and having to refill it.

on the buzuiki plates, pm him or look at his profile. there is a link to where you can buy a set from him.

to port the heads you bolt the plates to the engine. this is your guide to how far to open up the heads. Then you seal the plates to the heads before you install the LIM, etc.

as for porting the heads, aircougar uses a drill and some sort or bit, I can't recall the name right now, you can get them on ebay. pm him about it. or you can use a dremel but it will take way longer then anything else.

when you go to port the heads stuff paper towel down the ports and cover everything in grease on top of that. Also have a second person handle with a vacuum and this should take care of just about all the metal shavings. when your done turn the engine over and vacuum and blow out the ports with compressed air to make sure you got everything.


dont' forget that you reuse your engines front cover and crank damper. you will also be reusing the valve covers, etc.

another hint. wait to install the water cross over tube. This will give you alittle more room to drop the engine in with the A/C compressor zip ties to the car.


the safe way to empty the ac system, have a shop "recapture" the r-134a ...
 
on the powersteering, if you haven't drained it already don't. all you need to do is support the engine on a jack and remove the engine mount. then just unbolt the ps pump from the engine and swing off to the side. this way you don't need to worry about opening that up and having to refill it.

Too late with that one. I drained it - that shiz was black, smelled bad too like it was really burned up.



as for porting the heads, aircougar uses a drill and some sort or bit, I can't recall the name right now .

I just looked at the link from 95pgt-t and I actually have that same bit and a couple more different ones, so that is good to go.
AND thanks for the paper towel/greese trick BrApple

dont' forget that you reuse your engines front cover and crank damper. you will also be reusing the valve covers, etc.
Yep


the safe way to empty the ac system, have a shop "recapture" the r-134a ...
The car can't go anywhere.


Thanks guys - Todd, I like you but you're :crazy:
 
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